See three ways how the Winston CVAP can cook and hold your food – clearing up space in your kitchen and saving tons of time!
See three ways how the Winston CVAP can cook and hold your food – clearing up space in your kitchen and saving tons of time!
“Boiling out” a deep fryer can seem like a daunting task, but it’s critical to maintaining a clean and efficient fryer – and really isn’t even that difficult! Watch our video tutorial to learn how:
Keeping the basin of your deep fryer clean and your oil filtered is one of the easiest ways to increase the life of the oil and performance of the fryer. See how in this easy video lesson!
Hi, I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply. Today, we’re here in our test kitchen, and I’m going to show you how to extend the life of your oil through proper filtering. Before you begin to filter your oil, here’s some basic equipment that you’re going to need, safety equipment obviously: Some high-temp heat-resistant gloves, a high-temp heat-resistant apron, as well as a face shield for any kind of splatter, a drain poker, a dial thermometer, an extension pipe for your drain, oil test strips, a high-heat temperature scrub brush and a crumb scoop. As well over here, we have a cone filter, cone filter paper, a nice big 32-quart stockpot, and a metal measuring cup, so that way we can move oil back and forth to the basin and the stockpot to scrub out any other crumbs that need be.
First, we can see that this oil needs to be treated, orange, brown and it smells. First, I want to take the temperature. We’re looking for a pretty hot temperature. That way, it helps us scrub out any residual grease and crumbs that we need to. However, we’re not looking at our operating temperature of 350. That is also quite dangerous. Somewhere in that 300-250 range, that’s a good area to start working with it. We see there with 300, so that’s a good temperature. We’re going to get the basket screen out of there. Again, don’t put your hands in there. That’s hot oil. I’m using my drain poker to grab that. Then once we’ve got it out, we can just set it to the side.
Here, I’ve got our draining process set up. This tube right here is where the oil is going to be draining from in that particular basin. Then it’s going to go right through our cone paper filter, into our 32-quart basin. This red handle is our drain valve. We’re going to open that, and slowly start draining the oil. Be sure that you don’t just open the valve completely right away because that’s where the hazard comes in with any kind of splash back with this very hot oil. Start it off nice and slow. Then as it gets going, you can start opening up a little bit more. With your drain valve still open, you want to get some of the oil you’ve already drained, and dump it back into the basin, because as you can see, there’s still a lot of crumbs and residual grit that needs to be washed out.
Again, this is why you have your nice trusty high-heat apron because there can be some splash-back. Some pieces get clogged up. That’s why we’ve got our drain poker. As you start scrubbing the inside, you’ll find some spots that are a little bit tough. Go ahead, and just use a little bit of that hot oil to help give it some of that grease that you’ll need.
Whether you find it at a neighbor’s garage sale or in your grandma’s attic, cast iron cookware is everywhere! It can rust and pit, but with a little care (and sometimes a lot of elbow grease) a good cast iron pan cast last for generations. In this video lesson, we take a pan recovered at a garage sale and see how easy it is to restore!
Hi, i’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply and we’re here in our test kitchen. In today’s episode I’m going to show you how to turn your garage sale treasure finds into something restored and beautiful.
Here we got some nice cast iron rusted-away pans we found at a garage sale. What I’m going to do is show you how to restore these back to some nice beautiful cast iron. Essentially what you really need to do is you need to scrub away all the rusted iron. That way we can start from scratch of reseasoning this pan.
Now we’re actually going to season our cast iron. You could use lard, you could use oil, some sort of fat. We need to cover every piece of surface area of your cast iron with the fat because that’s what’s going to bake in to season our cast iron pan. Use the handles. You can get bits of the outside again. Now that I got a nice coat of fat on that I’m going to turn my burner. Obviously that’s high; we’ll cut it back about half way, about medium high. We’re just going to let that bake in, round one.
Once you got that first layer of shortening or fat seasoned in there, kind of cooked out, give it a wipe, get all that residual stuff out of the there. Let it cool down properly. Then what you’re going to want to do is do that same process one more time. Just because you’ve refurbished the entire surface you’re going to want to put a nice good layer of seasoning in there to protect your food.
That’s how you properly restore your cast iron. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply from our test kitchen. Please comment below, and please subscribe, and call our sales floor directly if you’ve got any further questions. Until next time.
Victorinox is a brand known for quality and durability – but we wanted to put their reputation to the test and see how well their knives really do hold up.
Hi, I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply. In today’s video I’m going to show you the durability and longevity of Victorinox knives. Here we have a brand new 8″ chef knife. I’m going to pull it right out of the package. We’re going to peel it right out of here, if I knew how. Brand new knife.
What we’re going to do from here, I’ve got two markers. I’m going to mark up the blade. Now that we’ve got our Victorinox knife properly marked up and unique to iself I’m going to hand this off to our testing department and we’ll see what it looks like after its vigorous trials. Here we go.
We’re testing this Victorinox knife three things. The first is dishwasher safeness. Now I don’t recommend putting your knife in the dishwasher, but oftentimes it finds its way there. Just be sure that you keep it in a stable condition so that way the blade doesn’t get knocked around and flaw the integrity of the edge.
As we all know, big reasons why we don’t put blades in the dishwasher is, one, a safety concern. Grabbing that blade is very dangerous. But also the high temperature, the chemicals and sanitation and soap, and the agitation of the machine itself creates a lot of harm for that fine edge
The second thing that we’re testing for is how well your blade holds up to cutting technique and poor use. Always remember, as previously stated, never use a complete straight down motion with your blade as that is very harmful to its edge. Also be sure what kind of cutting board you’re using. Never use a glass cutting board, as those are just for decoration. [So often 02:41] know that wood cutting boards are also harmful to your blades as well, even though we highly recommend wood cutting boards. Be sure that you notice the difference between end grain vs. a side grain. End grain is what you want to use; side grain is much more harmful to your blades.
The third and final thing that we’re testing for is resistance and durability to storage. Knife magnets are great because they keep your knife isolated and away from any other blade or utensil. However, blades often find themselves in a haphazard drawer knocking themselves into other things that are metal, whether it be another knife or utensil or tongs, really decreasing the integrity of your edge.
Now that we’ve done the rigorous testing of the daily ins and outs of a kitchen, let’s see how well this knife blade hones and cuts a tomato. Notice the nice artistic drawing that we put on this blade before the rigorous testing that it went through. As you can see, the red’s still there. It’s just turned a little bit more pink, and it’s definitely got some wear and tear. Let’s see how well this thing hones.
Now that we’ve honed this knife we’ll test it on this nice ripe tomato. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply and that’s the durability and longevity of Victorinox knives. If you’ve got any further questions or comments, please comment below or call our sales floor directly. Please subscribe. Here’s to a better mise energy place.
Oskar Blues, in addition to being a local purveyor of some great beer, runs a 600-seat bar and restaurant down the street from their brewery in Longmont, Colorado. We traveled up the road to see how they utilize the Sharp Twin Touch microwave to keep up with the demands of a high-volume kitchen.
Hi. I’m Chris Tavano for Tunda Restaurant Supply and we’re here at the Oskar Blues Home Made Liquids and Solids, right up the street from the Oskar Blues Brewery. This place seats about 600 plus occupants and in order to keep up with that volume we’re going to showcase the Sharp Twin Touch RC Series Microwave.
Some great features about this Twin Touch microwave is exactly that, the Twin Touch. If you notice it’s got two rows of buttons at the top of the unit and at the bottom of the unit directly on the door. The reason why is so that way these microwaves are designed to be stacked on top of each other. It’s a great use of space. A lot more efficient for your prep area and at the same time when you’re stacking them three high it might be a little bit difficult to get to that top row of buttons so they added the lower row of buttons on the door itself.
The nice advantage about cleaning this unit is it’s all stainless steel, interior and exterior. That is a great advantage because it just wipes clean with a de-greaser with the greatest of ease. At the same time it comes apart very easily to change your filters because that is the one component that is going to break your microwave, not cleaning your filter properly.
On the bottom you see the 1 through 10. Often times on microwave units that denotes how many minutes you’re actually going to cook for. Instead on here that is just ten pre-programmed presets of time durations at your discretion. Number 1 could be 15 minutes, number 5 can be 10 minutes, number 9 can be a minute and a half, whatever you decide to program. There’s up to 100 programmable options in there.
A great feature to this Twin Touch unit is the four stage programming. This is certainly acceptable in the sense of defrosting chicken breasts. Keep in mind old units would just defrost at one constant power level the entire time, cooking the exterior of your food. You don’t want that. You just want to defrost it and still keep it raw so that way you can cook it on the stove or on your range. The four stage programming is going to allow you to defrost at a low power level, then maybe the last two minutes it’ll bump up to a high power level.
The nice thing is that four stage programming can be overwritten beyond the defrost state so as you program all of your Twin Touch buttons you can program any one of those buttons to go through four different power levels throughout it’s duration of cooking time.
Another great bonus about this unit is it’s volume capacity in the interior cabinets, .75 cubic feet. It doesn’t sound like a whole lot but once you start putting in your half size, six inch deep, Lexan pans, you’re going to realize you can fit a lot more stuff in there than you realize.
I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply and that wraps up our demo of the Sharp Twin Touch RC Series Microwave here at Oskar Blues Home Made Liquids and Solids where we enjoy live music five nights a week. Come on down and join us.
Cleaning a deep-fryer can easily become one of the most dreaded chores in any kitchen – but if you clean it regularly not only will it be easier, but the fryer itself will work better and last longer. In this video lesson, Chris walks you through every step to restore your fryer to showroom quality!
Title photo copyright James Lee
Hi, I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply and in today’s episode we’re going to show you how to properly clean and maintain your fryer. Let’s start with the basic overview of the anatomy of a fryer. First, we have our fry baskets. Next, we have our fry basket hanger. This is removable and replaceable. Before we get to the basin let’s go to the bottom, open the door. Here we have the thermostat. Next, we have the safety valve. Beside that we have the pilot switch. Above all of that are your pilot orifices that go right into your burner valves, which are into the flumes of the basin of the cavity of the fryer. Then this big one right here is our drain valve. This extra piece right here is our drain valve extension so that way it goes into a bucket. Oftentimes you’re going to need a drain valve poking rod in case some of that soot gets clogged up in there, but before we go further we’ve also got some other components up top.
Your fryer screen which is in the basin just above the burners. Then if you notice right here we have our thermostat probe and our high limit probe. These are very sensitive and fragile and we have to be careful how we clean around these probes. Before you start doing any kind of cleaning on your fryer be sure that you’re equipped with the proper safety gear and equipment. Let’s do a run down. First, I got my nice trusty goggles for any kind of splash back or chemicals that get in your eyes, very key. Next, I got some nice Nitrile gloves to keep you from, again, some of those chemicals that boil out. Again, it protects you from the heat. Again, that oil in that basin’s still going to be very, very hot. Next, I got my burn guard apron. Again, to prevent from any kind of splash back of hot oil or grease getting onto my skin.
First, we have our drain valve extension. Next, we have a fryer coil brush to get in between your burners and deep down in that basin. Next, we have a basic scrub brush to get anything on the surface. Next, we have our drain valve poking rod in case it ever gets clogged in that drain. Last but not least, we have a nice thick walled stock pot to catch the hot oil once we drain it. Be sure that you don’t use anything like aluminum or definitely not plastic. That oil’s still going to be very hot and it’s going to melt. Be sure you’re using something thick and sturdy. All right, right before you’re about to drain and clean your fryer you’re going to want to make sure you turn the thermostat in the off position. You do not want these burners going as you’re trying to drain and clean this unit.
Once you turn off the thermostat this is also a great moment to go get your supplies and equipment for the cleaning and the draining process. The nice thing about that is it’s going to give the unit and the oil about fifteen, twenty minutes to start cooling down but it’s not going to get so cold to where the oil coagulates and is kind of difficult to drain through the assembly. Next, you’re going to want to put on your drain valve extension. Be sure that you have the opening facing down into your receptacle. Next, we can place our stock pot right underneath that and then very slowly we’re ready to start draining. Slowly start opening the valve. You’re going to see the flow starting to increase. Keep your hand on the valve control because this is a great way to control the flow of the oil so that way it just doesn’t dump out and splash hot oil all over you. Again, that is why we have the safety equipment though.
Once your old oil is done draining you can go ahead and close the valve. Then we can go ahead and remove our vessel to be discarded with our old oil or recycled. Now we can start scrubbing up top. The most important and critical part to cleaning the basin of your fryer unit is keeping in mind of these thermostatic probes. These are very fragile and very sensitive and if they get banged around too much they can easily break and then there’s bigger concerns and issues to deal with on your fryer unit. We’re going to grab our fryer coil cleaning brush and just be sure that you’re going down in between these flumes and giving a nice good scrub. Another good thing is this coil has an L, like a little elbow, so that way you can get underneath your burners and get the bottom edge of those as well. Again, when you go in the middle of this one, very, very careful that you don’t get too close to these probes.
Once you’ve got your burner flumes scrubbed off pretty well without banging around your probes we can go ahead and get our other brush to help scrub off other components, other areas of the basin. Keep in mind there may be some residual grease left on the walls and the bottom of the basin of the fryer unit. However, that’s actually a good thing because it acts as a lubricant to help scrub some of those more difficult areas. Now that we’ve scrubbed most of the residual residue away from the basin we’re ready to boil out the basin and get it extra clean. Two ways to do that, you can get fryer pucks or you can use your common grill degreaser. First thing first, be sure that your valve is closed and then we’re going to fill the basin halfway with hot water. Once it’s filled with hot water you can throw in one fryer boil out puck or you can add approximately one cup of your common degreaser that would fill approximately eight gallons of hot water.
Once that’s full go ahead and throw your thermostat up to three hundred and fifty degrees, and we’re going to want to boil that solution for about fifteen to twenty minutes. Once you’ve boiled that solution for about fifteen, twenty minutes be sure you turn your thermostat off and then now we can proceed to drain that solution like we did the hot oil from earlier. Once you’ve drained all your cleaning solution you’re going to want to be sure that you rinse out the basin one last time with just clean water to be sure there’s no residual chemicals before you put in your new batch of fryer grease. What you want to do is just keep your drain open and start rinsing it out with hot water, whether it comes from your hose or a giant bucket, and you can go ahead and just let it drain onto the floor drain or you can drain it into a basin, or a vessel, or a receptacle and discard into your basin sink.
Again, you can just let it go right on the floor and right into your floor drain. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply, and that’s how you properly and safely clean your fryer. If you have any further questions please comment below or call our sales floor directly, and please subscribe.
See the Waring Xtreme in action as we pit it against “another” leading food prep blender grating Parmesan cheese and powdering baking chocolate!
For these tests we’ll be looking at some more mechanical aspects of the Waring Xtreme: the strength of the jar and the noise of the unit. See how it performs here!
We’ve seen how the Waring Xtreme performs making hot soup from scratch and blending a smoothie from frozen fruit. In this video test, we put the Waring Xtreme up against ice cubes and heavy cream to see what it can do!