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Author Archive | Nathan Combs

Gas Hose Maintenance and How to Diagnose Leaks [Video]

Make sure that your work environment is safe and your equipment is running well by regularly maintaining your gas hoses. In this video, we show you basic maintenance and lubricating procedures, as well as how to diagnose a gas leak!

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How to Calibrate Digital Thermometers [Video]

Learn how to calibrate your digital probe thermometers! While not all digital and infrared thermometers can be calibrated, you can still check the accuracy to ensure a good temperature reading!

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I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply. In today’s episode, I’m going to show you how to field calibrate your digital probe or infrared thermometers.

You’re going to calibrate your digital thermometer in an ice bath solution just like the analog dial thermometer, as well. Here we’ve got a nice glass filled halfway with ice and we’re going to fill it in with water just to fill in the cracks and seams of the ice. We don’t want the ice floating. We want it to be nice and compact in the glass.

We insert the needle into the water, ensure that’s not in contact with the sidewalls, the bottom of the cup or glass itself. Here we’re reading 31.2 degrees. Now, we should know that this should be 32 degrees. To recalibrate this, there’s this DH button. You want to hold that down for about 8 seconds and then it’s going to start to flash CAL for about 2 seconds. That means it’s recalibrating. Now we get a new reading of exactly 32 degrees.

Infrared thermometers usually cannot be field calibrated, but it is healthy to check its accuracy and the battery life itself. We’re going to turn it on. Using the same cup of ice water we were using earlier, we’re going to probe the dead center of the glass, not to the edge of the rim, not to the side of the actual table, but we need to be in the exact center of the glass. Let it sit there for a few seconds, so that way it can get a full read.

The nice thing about these thermometers is they’re pretty instantaneous and right now we’ve got a reading of 34.2 degrees. If you believe that your infrared thermometer is becoming uncalibrated, though, contact the manufacturer for further instructions or change the battery first.

That’s how you accurately field calibrate your digital thermometers. If you have other comments, questions or concerns, please comment below or call our sales floor and we’ll be glad to help you or you can definitely subscribe to our weekly video updates.

Again, I’m Chris Tavana for Tundra Restaurant Supply. Here’s to a better mise en place!

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Buying Guide: Kitchen Thermometers [Video]

Kitchen thermometers may seem like simple pieces of equipment, but they are available in a wide variety of makes, models, prices, and features. Learn which thermometer is best for you!

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Hi. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply and in today’s episode we’re going to talk about the pros and cons about four different kinds of kitchen thermometers.

The first thermometer we have here is the old fashioned analog probe thermometer. The nice thing about this is that it’s cheap and it’s easy. It’s very clear cut of what the temperature is; however, the downfall with this one is it does take a little bit of time for the dial to actually get to the correct temperature. Also it’s got a limited temperature range. As you can see it only goes from zero to 220 degrees. Sometimes that could limit you. As well, it can get uncalibrated and the more that you calibrate this that little nut on the back can get loose over time and you’ll need to replace it. The nice thing is it’s cheap so it shouldn’t be too much of a burden.

Next we have a digital probe thermometer from Comark. The PDT-300. The nice thing about this is that it’s also cheap. The better benefit is that it’s a little bit quicker. It’s got more of an instantaneous read because it’s digitally driven and it can be field calibrated. The downfall about this one though is it’s also got a limited temperature range. This one can go down to 52 degrees below zero and all the way up to 302 degrees. This one is definitely an upgrade from your classic analog dial.

Next we have a Comark FoodPro Plus Infrared and Probe Thermometer. This is actually a really cool one. We’re starting to get into the more high-end thermometers here. The nice thing about these is when you have your HACCP plans and your health inspectors come in these thermometers are really what’s going to save you. The nice thing about this one, it’s already got a HACCP temperature range indicator so when you’re actually probing with this one you’ll see at the top it’s flashing in the hazardous sign so that means your temperature range right now for whatever you’re taking the temperature of is in the HACCP danger zone. Also it will go to the cold side or the hot side if you’re in the respective healthy areas of those temperature ranges. The nice thing is it’s an infrared gun as well as a digital probe as well so you got two different things here. The probe -40 to 392. The infrared gun itself -30 to 525.

Next here we have what is considered the crème de la crème of kitchen thermometers. We have here the Comark C20 Series K-type Thermal Couple Thermometer. The nice thing about this is that it’s a thermal couple so it’s going to measure your temperature ranges in a completely different manner, much more accurately, and it has a much larger range than any other thermometer. The temperature range on this probe is -328 degrees Fahrenheit all the way up to just over 1,000 degrees Fahrenheit. 1,112 to be exact. Also the nice thing, the feature of this is it’s got a one degree margin of error plus or minus so you’re getting a much more accurate reading and it reads almost instantaneously. The nice thing about this thermometer though is that it’s got some waterproofing around where the probe connector is as well as very durable because of this rubber housing and casing around it. It’ll last much longer than any other thermometer you have.

I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply and here’s to a better, accurate temperature reading.

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Kitchen Tricks: How to Cut Iceberg Lettuce [Video]

Iceberg lettuce is a salad staple and whether you’re prepping large salads for a buffet or just trying to get the kids to start eating vegetables, there’s a good chance you’ll find yourself cutting a lot of it. Use this trick to save yourself some time in the process!

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Hi, I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply, and in today’s episode, I’m going to show you how to cut through Iceberg Lettuce in a much more efficient manner. Here’s the old fashioned traditional way we would just cut through a head of Iceberg Lettuce. Probably cut in half of some sort, split the halves, try to identify where the core’s at. That way we can rip out this core whether you cut it out or you rip it out with your hand. There’s obviously a lot of manual work right here. Then you can finally start cutting your lettuce for your salad.

However, I’ll show you a quick and easy step to get that core out of this Iceberg head. See the core right there? Slides it right out. Now you can start chopping away on your lettuce. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply. Here’s to a better mise en place!

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How to Calibrate Dial Probe Thermometers [Video]

Cooking and food thermometers are some of the most widely used and important tools in the kitchen. Almost every chef carries at least one, of some kind or another, and when used properly, they can ensure that food is cooked perfectly every time. However, it is important to check the accuracy of your thermometer, and re-calibrate it when necessary. In this video, learn how to calibrate a common dial probe thermometer!

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Here’s how you calibrate your probe thermometer. First things first, you’re going to want to get a cup or glass of ice water. Key point to this glass of ice water is you don’t want the ice floating. You just want to fill the glass with ice and let water fill up to fill in the cracks. From there, we’re going to remove our thermometer from its sheath. It has a nice little holding hole. From there, we can go ahead and drop our thermometer in. Try to get it so that way it sits in the center, doesn’t come in any contact with glass. Go down to the bottom and come up just a little bit. Nice thing about these thermometers is you can hang it on the end right there.

Right now we see 40 degrees Fahrenheit, but we also know that ice water is 32 degrees. So basically, what we need to do is decrease and calibrate this thermometer down 8 degrees. What we’re going to do is take this out. If you notice the bottom of your thermometer has a little nut. You also notice the top of the case is just like the wrench for that nut. So, go ahead and drop this back down into your casing. From there, you can take your reading. You see it’s at 70 degrees right now. We need to go down approximately 8 degrees. Give it a little twist.

See how we got that needle there? By twisting, it should be pretty tight. Take it out, and let’s check it again. It should be stopping about one tick above that 30 triangle.

I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply, and that’s how to calibrate your thermometers.

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Buying Guide: Detecto Scales [Video]

If you’re looking to gain better control over your food cost and portion control, integrating scales into your kitchen is a great place to start. Weighing ingredients not only saves you money and ensures accuracy in portioning and shipments, but also ensures that you produce a consistent, quality product for your customers! In this video, Chris Tavano outlines the benefits and different uses of Detecto scales.

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In this episode, we’re going to discuss and compare the different features and uses of Detecto scales. Why are scales so important you may ask? Well a variety of different reasons, first they help you create consistent quality products coming out of your kitchen, and the way they do that, is to accuracy. Accuracy to your recipe refinement, and ingredients used in it, as well as accuracy on portion control, as well as accuracy on your inventory control which all of which boil down to your food cost.

Accuracy and honing in your food cost. The first scale we’re going to look at here, is a Detecto mechanical scale, often called a portion scale. These items are great because of the the ease of use in the simplicity in their design. They are pretty much versatile in the sense they are waterproof, they have quick read outs, and the have manual, and they have great proportioning things like starches, and pastas, as well as anything with a portion vegetable.

You can easily adjust the location of the needles through the spring tension here. The dial on the front creates a very manual tare function. The nice thing about this is that they’re pretty much waterproof, they are quick read outs. However the downfall is that you may not know when your spring tensions goes array, so you may not know when to really replace this unless you weigh something who knows exactly the amount of ounces that you have.

Next up here we have a Detecto PS4 digital scale. The reason why this one is great, is because of versatility and it’s capacity hold up to four pounds considering as quaint small size as well it measures in a tenth of an ounce all the way down a gram. You can use your unit conversions to change it. As well there’s a 0 tare function, so that way when you put your mixing bowl on here you can tare it out to be 0 and then we can start adding the weight of each ingredient from there.

It runs on a 9 volt power supply, as well it could also be used with batteries. The next scale we have here is the Detecto WPS10 mariner digital scale. The nice great thing about this one is not only it’s size and capacity, can hold up to 10 pounds, and measure all the way down to the accurate of a tenth of an ounce. It also has very different functions of unit measurements, going to the grams as well.

It also has a tare functions just like the other digital scale, but the great thing about this one not only does it have the back light button for your display screen, but the mariner is called the mariner for reason because this could be fully submersible into water. The great feature here it has a nice rubber gasket plug, to cover power supply. Again this also run on a 9 volt power supply, or battery as well.

The great thing about cleaning up after measuring and portioning your protein, is you have a lot of bacteria on your scale. A lot of times the saran wrap just won’t cover it completely to be sanitized and cleaned. The nice thing about this, is you can submerge this into your sink, scrub it down and then you can also submerge into your sanitizer sink and then it’s free to go for a clean session on the next round.

The last scale we have here to talk about is Detecto DR150. This is actually a receiving scale, you maybe asking why you need such a large receiving scale in your kitchen. This thing can help you do wonders in the sense of inventory control and food cost analysis. These scales are great it can weigh up to a 150 pounds going all the way down to 2 tenths of a pound, as well they measure in kilograms.

The great thing about this piece is you can weigh all your items in your walking at the end of the month for inventory. It makes it go a little bit quicker. The one downfall is this needs to be attached to a power supply constantly, this one does not work on battery. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply, join us again next time.


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How to Replace the Thermal Sensor – Rinnai Commercial Gas Rice Cooker [Video]

If the rice in your Rinnai Commercial Gas Rice Cooker is coming out over cooked or under cooked, the most likely cause is a faulty thermal sensor.

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Video Transcript:

Hi. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Resturant Supply. In this video we’re going to show you how to troubleshoot some common setbacks and easy maintenance repair for your Rinnai Commercial Gas Rice Cooker.

The last common setback that you’re going to experience with your Rinnai Commercial Gas Rice Cooker is actually how the rice itself is cooked. Whether it comes out overcooked or undercooked, it really comes down to your thermal sensor itself. Again, that’s this piece in the center with the spring. The reason why this is so important is because this is run by an induction magnet that actually cooks your rice from the bottom of this pan. Always be sure first and foremost that this surface is spic and span clean as well as the top of your thermal sensor itself.

From there, if you see any type of wear and tear from the daily grind and it is clean but you see the impression of the magnet inside, that means your thermal sensor needs replacing anyway.

First, you’re going to turn the whole machine upside down. The screw right here, the setscrew. Take that right out. First thing first, is you’re going to want to release the lowest washer on the plunger arm of the thermal sensor from the operating arm of the base. What I did is I pushed down on the spring of the plunger on the thermal sensor itself to get this pin out of that hole.

From there, this plunger should just be able to detach right from the operating arm and it will sink right in to the thermal sensor itself because it is a magnet. Nest, we need to remove this tricky littler securing spring of your thermal hot sensor. Pretty much you see the hoop in the back, you’re going to push away from the center and it should just pop right out of that hole.

From there, you’re going to give it a little 90 degree twist so that way the base of it can come out the bottom. Take note of the positioning of the feet on your thermal sensor and where there are in relation to the housing basis. For instance, this one foot on the thermal sensor has an angle cut into its base of its foot. Take note of that because when replacing this later you’re going to want to line that one special foot up in the same direction that you just took that securing pin from and just slides right out from there.

This is the thermal sensor and this is pretty much what drives the cooking of the rice. The cooking of the rice has nothing to do with the amount of weight or the amount of water you have. Strictly, it has to do with heat. Thermal means heat, this is essentially a heat sensor. That’s how it’s going to regulate the temperature of the cooking of your rice.

This is your thermal sensor spring. Keep in mind, this is actually tapered so it means one circumference is a little bit smaller than the other circumference. Meaning, it’s only going to fit on your thermal sensor one way. Keep in mind if you put this on and this ring can get above it, you got it on backwards. You have the big end at the top. What we do want is the small end at the top. Now it fits flush, you can’t quite get it over that top lid.

Take note of the shape of the base of this one foot compared to the other two. This angle to foot is going to be positioned in the back corner where we release that securing spring. Actually, replacing this securing spring is much easier than it looks, much easier than it was coming out. Big thing to take note of is this little L-shape in the end. It needs to go through this hole and down and into this slit that is positioned next to that angled foot base that we’re speaking of earlier.

Then once that’s in place there we’re going to focus on pushing that little hoop all the way to that back little slot that we took it out of earlier. Once you get that spring hooked back up to the base in both spots, you get the plunger from the sensor again. Remember, we have this one slight pin that needs to go in that hole. However, do not just want to put it in there like this. That is not secure.

What you’re going to want to do is push that first washer down with that pin down on the spring and get that to sit right in here. Now, do you see how the arm as well as the plunger are securely together in between those washers? Now, it’s just a matter of rotating that pin right into the hole. It’s just a matter of ease to get this piece back screwed into place. There you have your thermal sensor replaced.

I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply and that’s how you diagnose and perform some common repairs to your Rinnai Gas Commercial Rice Cooker. Here’s to a better mise en place!

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How to Replace the Pilot Orifice and Thermocouple – Rinnai Commercial Gas Rice Cooker [Video]

If you rely on a large capacity rice cooker, such as this model from Rinnai, you know that any time it spends broken, or not operating optimally, creates more problems and a loss of time. However, if the problem is with the pilot light – either not lighting at all, or going out on its own – there could be an easy way to quickly repair it and get your rice cooker back up and running.

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Video Transcript:

Hi. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply.

In this video we’re going to show you how to trouble shoot some comment set backs and easy maintenance repair for your Rinnai Commercial Gas Rice Cooker.

Some tools that you may need are a phillips head screwdriver, an adjustable crescent wrench, needle nose pliers and optional, some pipe cleaner to clean out your tubing. Often can be found in arts and crafts supply stores.

The first common set back to troubleshoot for your Rinnai Commercial Gas Rice Cooker is there’s no flame or the pilot light won’t light itself.

First thing to check is your quick disconnect gasoline all the way up to your Rinnai Gas Cooker.

Remember that this valve needs to be parallel or in line for it being turned on. Perpendicular is turned off. The first thing to check.

From there, if it’s still not lighting and your gas is being hooked up to the machine itself, you’re most likely looking at a clogged pilot orifice that we need to replace. We’ll do that next.

The first thing you need to do is click your ignition button a couple of times. You shouldn’t have to do this more than 3 times and you should see a small flame behind your pilot housing right underneath here.

If your rice cooker is getting gas but your pilot light won’t stay lit, your problem is most likely build up in the pilot orifice which supplies gas to the pilot itself.

If your pilot lights, hold your ignition switch down for about 30 seconds and once you release it, if the pilot goes out, most likely your problem is the thermocouple.

The thermocouple is the safety device that ensures the pilot light is lit before the machine actually supplies causing gas to the burners.

If your thermocouple is bad, it will prevent the pilot and the burners from staying lit.

Once you identify good and correct has line connection, the next thing to do is actually tackle and repair and maintain your pilot orifice.

Before you perform any kind of maintenance or repairs to your equipment, be sure that it is always off and disconnected from any gas line.

Then from here, we see there’s 1 little screw holing on the drip pan. We’re going to go ahead and unscrew that and the drip pan slides right off.

The pilot orifice is located right behind this brass knot which is attached to this aluminum gas tube which is very fragile.

First, we’re going to take this clip on the thermocouple and undo this, set that aside. Just bend your thermocouples out of the way.

From here we’re going to see a screw and the pilot assembly that we need to undo. You can go ahead and set that aside.

From there, you can just bend this slightly out of the way.

When removing this brass knot to get access o your pilot orifice, keep in mind and remember that this aluminum has tubing is very fragile and we’re going to want to twist off the pilot assembly while holding that brass knot still.

This little brass tip right here is your pilot orifice. Often times in this little tube, in the pilot assembly can get clogged and that’s where we need our pipe cleaner.

Just take your pipe cleaner, stick it right down the tube and just kind of scrub it out.

This is a .25 pilot orifice. That number refers to the size of this little pin prick whole on the back and this is not interchangeable with any other orifice. Be sure you have the .25 orifice for your pilot assembly.

All right. Once we get our .25 pilot orifice into our pilot assembly, just a matter of screwing this back on in place to this aluminum coil. Again this aluminum coil is fragile so we don’t want to actually twist the knot, just want to get the pilot assembly finger tight, then make sure it’s nice and snuggles with our wrench holding on to that knot.

From there we can go ahead and place this back down on our housing for our pilot assembly. An easy way to get this screw back in, you just go ahead and put the screw on the housing itself and aim with that. And that’s how you replace your pilot orifice.

And then be sure that we put our thermocouple back into its place and the clip. Be sure when you’re using your clip, the hoop is for your finger to hold, to push it back in place.

The single sided end is for you to actually brace the thermocouple in.

If you recognize that you pilot light is igniting but it won’t stay lit, what you’re looking at is your thermocouple itself, needs replacing.

Again remember, this little clip here was for the thermocouple, take that out. We got a little screw down here that attaches to the thermocouple to the gas valve and then from there, your going to have to try and get the plastic clip with some needle nose pliers. This is probably the most tricky part just because the tight area to get to.

Take a look at the clip on this thermocouple. It just slides right into place and it clicks and once it clicks its locked itself into place.

To get it out, you’re always getting the needle nose pliers right on these ends and just squeezing it and pulling it right out.

Your new thermocouple probably come pretty straight. However, you’ll have to bend the coils as need be.

First thing first is you probably want to get that plastic clip to secure in first, then from there we can bend everything else around as need be and as necessary to get thermocouple back into place.

Again, getting that little screw on the thermocouple. It might be kind of hard to aim. You can go ahead and put it in the cable first then just point it right down into the hole.

And last but not least, our thermocouple clip. Again, the single sided non-looped end goes in the back, the hoop goes over the couple and this clamps right back into place.

And that’s how you replace your thermocouple.

I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply and that’s how you diagnose and perform some common repairs to your Rinnai Commercial Gas Rice Cooker. Cheers to a better mise en place!

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Guide to Hobart Mixer Accessories [Video]

A Hobart mixer can easily be the most versatile tool in any kitchen, but it’s important when purchasing attachments and accessories to ensure that they are compatible with your model of mixer. In this guide, Chris Tavano explains the differences in accessories between the two lines of Hobart mixers.

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Video Transcript:

Hi. I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply.

In today’s episode, I’m going to help you distinguish the differences in attachments for 2 different Hobart mixers.

First thing’s first, there are n fact 2 different kinds of models of Hobart mixers out there. We have the standard version and then also in the past recent few years, they’ve come out with a new HL Legacy Series.

Big difference between those is they take different kinds of parts in the way they attach to the mixer itself.

First we’re going to take a look at these bowls. Right here on my left, your right, we have the standard Hobart mixer bowl.

The biggest thing the difference between that and this Legacy version here on my right your left, is the difference between these brackets. Also if you noticed on this HL Legacy version, we’ve got an angled bracket and that’s to help secure it in place when it snaps in.

But if you noticed on that bracket, the actual model number of this bowl, HL20, it’s printed on that bracket. That’s a great way to identify the Legacy series.

The standard version does not have that printed on their brackets.

Just notice these differentiations between the 2 and that’s your first place to identify do you have the standard version or the HL Legacy series.

In addition to the Legacy series having the model number imprinted on the bracket of the bowl. Take a look at this old version. You’ll notice that both brackets are the same on both sides. However, when you look at the Legacy HL version, you’ll notice that the brackets are not the same on both sides and that is due to their new locking mechanisms over here.

Next, I’m going to help you distinguish between the different kinds of attachments for those same mixers.

You’ll notice on this particular attachment of the standard version or Hobart mixers, we see the recess inside the pedal, so that way you slide it on and twist it into place, so that way the locking pin falls in that set area.

This is the newer version HL Legacy series. The big thing to differentiate here is the spring loaded locking set pin. What you’re going to do is you’re going to slide this, the whole attachment on the shaft and then you release the spring, so that way it slides into place and it’s going to click right into the whole that it locks into.

Also you’ll notice that the HL series and model number embossed directly on the attachments themselves.

Also keep in mind when ordering a Hobart replacement parts, that you take note of what volume capacity you’re bowl is because that’s going to be very critical to how it fits your machine as well.

Also just be sure to give our sales a call if you have any questions as they are great in handling these issues with you.

And I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply. Join us again next time.

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How to Replace a Vitamix Blade Assembly [Video]

Whether a Vitamix blender is crucial to your business, or if you simply like the ease and efficiency of mixing they provide, you know that keeping sharp blades is key to good operation. If your blades begin to dull, you can simply replace the blade assembly itself, without having to go out and but an entire new container (unless the container is worn out as well!). For this process, you will need a Vitamix Retainer Wrench.

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Video Transcript:

Hi, I’m Chris Tavano for Tundra Restaurant Supply. In today’s episode I’m going to show you how to change the blade assembly in your Vitamix prep container.

Pretty much what we have here is our retainer nut wrench by Vitamix; unique for its blade assembly replacements. As well as, we have a 64 ounce Vita prep container here. First you’re going to take off the lid as that’s not needed. Turn your container upside down. The nice thing is this wrench, that hole is going to fit right over your drive socket. It only fits one way and from there lefty loosey.

You want to be careful with those blades because they might be sharp still. I’m using a rag to grab a hold of that blade. That nut comes off and your blade assembly should just pop right out. Go ahead and take that old one. We can discard that. Now you have your empty container and your nut.

Now we’re going to get our new blade assembly. You’ll notice on the blade assembly there are two flat sides. That’s going to correspond with the two flat sides on the bottom of your container. Again, be careful just using a rag here. You could also use a cut glove, the Chain Mail Steel Mesh. Pretty much that way you don’t create any nicks on your fingers as you’re trying to replace this. In there it should just snap in place. Get our retaining nut. You can go ahead and screw that on finger tight for the time being.

Then get our retainer nut wrench by Vitamix again. We’ll tighten this piece back into place. There you have it, replacing the blade assembly on your Vitamix container.

I’m Chris Tavano from Tundra Restaurant Supply. That’s how you change your Vitamix blade assembly. Join us again next time.

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