eTundra Categories

Author Archive | Tundra Restaurant Supply

Learn About Different Knives & Cuts [Video]

Do you know the difference between a Chef Knife, Santoku Knife, Paring Knife, and Slicing Knife?  We found out that a lot of you are confused on what knife you should be using when making certain cuts, which is exactly why we had Chris make another video for you!  Chris not only walks through what each knife is used for, but also shows you helpful cutting tips for tomatoes, onions, oranges, and meats.

Special thanks to Bar Lilly at the Broker Inn.

List of Products Used in Video

Video  Transcription

Chris: Hello.  Welcome.  I’m Chris Tavano and this is another episode of Tundra Restaurant Supply Do-It-Yourself Knife Know-How.  Today we’re in the kitchen of Bar Lilly at the Broker Inn in Boulder.

So today we’re going to talk about knife essentials in the kitchen.  We’ve got a wide range of your honing rod, your slicing knife, a serrated bread knife, a santoku, or a chef’s knife, we’ve got both, as well as a paring knife.  We’re going to start off with a chef knife and a santoku knife and talk about the differences within them.

We’re using some quality cutting surfaces, an NSF certified plastic polyurethane cutting board or a nice wood butcher’s block that is oiled and cured for food safety.  Briefly I want to talk about the anatomy of a knife that every blade and every knife has is the tip, the blade itself, as well as the cutting edge which goes into the heel which goes to the bolster, easier to see on here, which goes into the tang, and the tang is something that goes throughout the handle.  The difference with the tang between the forged and stamped models, the best way to think about that is a stamped model is much like a license plate manufacturer whereas the forged is much like a blacksmith.

This is probably the most versatile knife in any kitchen could be used for many purposes especially if you are short on any other kind of knife.  Right here we are using a Victorinox stamped eight inch chef’s knife.  The best one I like to think of is holding it in the middle of these two fingers.  If you like to play drums it’s much like holding a drumstick, and you’re going to put that right where the bolster meets the handle, and you’re going to just lightly wrap your index finger around that, and then from there you can get any kind of chopping motion or slicing motion appropriate to whatever food you’ll be working with.

The first versatile piece of fruit or vegetable in the kitchen for a chef’s knife would be the tomato.  I’ll show you two ways on how to slice and dice this.  Be sure to keep your blade as sharp as possible.  We’ve demonstrated that in a different video, Sharpening vs. Honing.  Big thing here is you do not want to go straight down on the tomato.  It’s got a very sensitive skin so you’re going to want to be pushing forward as you go down.  What you do from here is take all those slices that you just had, stack them up nice and high, and from here we’re going to get the nice little dice.  Then rotate it 90 degrees.  Then you’ve got it going the other way.  Be careful you don’t stack too high and it slips out of the bottom, and then you’re going to get a little imperfect dice.

So some recipes call for tomatoes being seedless so I’ll show you how to do that now using a cored tomato that I’ve already prepped.  Start cutting it into quarters, and then from there we take out the seeds much like you will a pepper.  I’ll show you that in a minute, and just set those flesh pieces right off to the side.  So now that you’ve got all your flesh pieces just want to slice these into little julienne strips, and then from there you just take all your julienne strips and then go the opposite direction.  Try and get a nice quarter inch dice.

Next, we’ve got the santoku knife, the Mercer Genesis high carbon German steel blade is what we have.  It is also very comparable to a chef’s knife, very versatile and used for many applications.  This particular santoku has a granton edge often called a fluted edge or a hollow edge, but the technical term is granton, and basically this creates air pockets between the blade and the food so that way it’s easier to come off the blade after you’ve made a cut.  Here is just one of two cutting techniques on an onion that we typically like to use.  Save this piece for your scraps, your stockpots and whatnot.  Peel the first layer of skin back on the onion.  Keep the root intact because that’s going to come in very handy for a various reasons.  We’re going to do a dice here, and probably make about a quarter inch slice all the way through different layers of the onion applying a little bit of pressure on the top to keep it in place and don’t go all the way through like I had just done.  Come back the other way with the tip of your Santoku, and we’re going to make little slices all the way about three quarters of the way through down to the root  so that way theoretically it would all stay intact, and then from here you can make nice slicing motions on the onion and you’ve got your great quarter inch dice.

So next we’ve got the paring knife.  Here I’ve got a four inch Victorinox paring knife.  Paring knives are great for when your chef’s knife or santoku knife doesn’t quite get the job done as far as accuracy, precision or detail or creating that nice fine cut that you need.  So right now we’re going to use that Victorinox paring knife on an orange and show you how to segment citrus.  So I like to hold it like the drumstick again in your fulcrum right at the bolster, and then use the tip of your index finger near the tip of the blade so that way you get that nice precision accuracy.  And you can use that to core certain stuff.  I’ll show you here as we segment, but we’re going to segment this orange.  We’re going to slice off the tops and bottoms, and then from here I’m just going to do a nice rounding pattern to get this pith out of here.  So here you save the scraps great for incense, great for candles, soaps, etc., etc.  Now, here you can see the orange.  You can see the individual segments themselves so you’re going to take your paring knife and just go on the inside of one of those pith areas and create a little V and you’re going to cut out that segment, and on to the next one.

All right, next we’ve got a slicing knife.  Here we’re using the Mercer Millenia series.  It’s an eleven inch granton edge slicing knife.  So here we’re going to slice this beautiful, rested and seasoned pork chop that came off the grill.  Here instead of going down and making your slices, we want to cut on the bias so you’re going to rotate your blade down and just cut off that first nice little edge, and then from there about a quarter inch back every single time putting firm pressure on the back of the chop so that way it doesn’t slide away from you, and try and get full slices of the blade forward and then back.  Forward through the meat, and as you come back you should be in contact with the board cutting the chop all the way down through the bottom, forward and back.  So other applications for the slicing knife specifically is that way you’re not sawing through your meat.  Again, slicer knives are mostly for proteins.  Any kind of chef knife, paring knife, or boning knife, filet knife, you’re not going to get that nice smooth cut from front to back on your protein.  Again, you want to stay away from any kind of sawing motions when using a knife, and having a nice long slicing blade is going to allow you to do that in a large piece of protein.

There are other variations of a slicing knife as well.  There’s what is called the serrated edge.  A lot of times you see this slicing knife for bread something that is a little bit more hard or crusty on the outer surface so that way you can actually get through it.

One other point to mention though is always be sure to properly take care of your knives when washing and storing them.  Be sure that you’re always hand washing your knives.  Never put them in a dishwasher because the temperatures are way too high especially for the handles, and if you have a wood handle it’s just going to destroy it.  We’ve got these nice little blade guards from Mercer, and they’re great for protecting your knives’ honed and sharpened new blade steel.

And that sums up another episode of Knife Know-How from the kitchen of Bar Lilly at the Broker Inn in Boulder, Colorado.  I’m Chris Tavano from Tundra Restaurant Supply and to better mise en place!

Before taking action from the content or resources published here, we request that you visit and review our terms of use.


Continue Reading

Knife Sharpening [Video]

Welcome back to our series on knife sharpening and honing.  This week Chris Tavano will cover how knife sharpening works by taking a look at different types of knife sharpeners.  If you don’t know if you should be sharpening or honing, we’d suggest starting with the first video on honing, then come back here if you’re sure that sharpening is indeed what you want to do.

Video Transcribe

Chris Tavano: Good afternoon.  Welcome to Tundra Restaurant Supply.  I am Chris Tavano and today we’re going to talk about a little bit of knife care and maintenance.  So keep in mind if honing did not quite do the job you were looking for and you’re still having difficulties cutting through your tomatoes and onions, you might want to think about starting to sharpen it with a sharpening stone.  Again, some recap, the difference between honing and sharpening is very drastic.  Honing is going to restore your edge while sharpening is going to recreate a new edge.   Honing also reshapes the metal blade; whereas, sharpening grinds a new blade.  So honing doesn’t remove any metal, but sharpening removes a lot of metal from your blade.

Alright, so once you’ve honed your knife and you’re still not seeing the results that you would desire, it is time to sharpen your knife.  Now this is where things get a little bit hairy and a little bit more confusing.  Here we have sharpening stones.  This is a tri-stone right here, again, not to be confused with dry stone.  A tri-stone means that there are three different phases; coarse, medium, and fine, and then in this basin you’re going to want to have oil.  Again, you don’t want to use just any kind of oil, or cooking oil, or vegetable oil because that will ruin the porous texture of your stone itself.  Instead you’re going to want to use a sharpening stone oil which is essentially a mineral oil.  Now that’s what you’re going to want to have in your basin so that way it’s a nice lubricant for your abrasive to grind a new edge.

There’s also whetstones not to be confused with wet.  Whet is whet meaning sharpening.  Again, there are other stones out there as well.  There are ceramic stones that are pretty non-porous and they don’t need any lubrication.  That is probably the closest thing to a dry stone that you can get, dry stone.  Also, there are diamond-plated stones which is basically a brick of steel with diamond studs within it.  Again, that could be considered a dry stone because you don’t need lubricants for those two kinds of surfaces; however, any other kind of abrasive stone other than ceramic or diamond, you are going to want to use some sort of mineral oil lubricant.

Again, there are also some water stones out there, and those you’re going to have to soak the stone itself.  They take special instructions, and you’re going to want to soak that stone for a half hour before you actually start grinding on that.

Alright, so now we’re actually going to sharpen our knife via this whetstone we have here.  Again, I have my mineral oil.   We’ll just lubricate this stone a little bit so that way it gets nice and lubricated.  It’s nice that this nice stone has a particular gasket to keep it in place on the table itself.  Again, when sharpening on a stone same thing like the honing rod, two things you’re going to want to worry about is the angle and the abrasiveness.  The abrasiveness on this particular stone has two kinds of grit.  Think of it like sand paper.  You’ve got a 400 grit and a 1,000 grit,  So you’ve got coarse and fine. 

And again, from there just like the honing rod, you’re going to want to make consistent strokes simultaneously across the stone as well as simultaneously across the blade itself.  Again, we’re trying to create a beveled edge.  So you’ll put it here, press firmly, and with your fingers you’re going to want to keep that blade intact with the abrasive surface, and push forward as you slide across the knife.  Obviously, this stone is a little bit short for me and I didn’t quite get all the way across my blade.  And again, you should alternate each time between front and back. 

So now that we have our newly sharpened knife, grinded a new blade and a new bevel, we should be able to dice right through this tomato much easier just like that. 

Again, that was knife maintenance and care with Chris Tavano at Tundra Restaurant Supply.  Thank you and come again.

Before taking action from the content or resources published here, we request that you visit and review our terms of use.

Continue Reading

How to Hone a Knife [Video]

Trying to figure out if your knives need to be honed or sharpened?  In our upcoming video series, we’ll show you exactly what you need to know to keep your favorite kitchen tools sharp.  Our first few videos we’ll cover knife care and maintenance, then move into what different knives are used for cutting different foods.  With that, we say without further ado, here’s our first video on how to hone a knife.

Video Transcribe

Chris Tavano: Hello! Welcome to Tundra Restaurant Supply. I’m Chris Tavano, and I’m going to be taking you through some knife care and maintenance today. Today we’re going to be talking about the differences between honing and sharpening; and the different kinds of stones for sharpening, as well a,s the different kinds of steels and rods for honing.

When you’re honing, we got to think about what’s going on with the blade itself. When you have a nice sharp blade, it should look like this. Nice and even on both sides. Then there is a bevel. That is what we call this angle that’s going to the tip.

What happens as you use your knife and it wears down, that beveled tip starts to turn a little bit more blunt and starts to be a little more rectangular. Also, what can happen is that tip will create burrs. You tend to see a lot more metal fragments and inconsistencies or jagged edges on the knife edge itself.

What honing is going to do is remove those burrs and shape your blunt edge back into a nice beveled tip. However, the difference with sharpening now is when those burrs and jagged edges get too large as well as your blunt edge too big to where you can’t cut through a tomato or a lemon or an onion. That’s when you’re actually going to want to sharpen your knife and grind it down to a whole new blade creating a new beveled edge.

Now we’re going get into details of honing your knife and what honing rods are. Right here, we have a typical honing rod, which is a round shape. They come in many different shapes. Again, this one is another honing rod with an oval shape. There are also honing rods that are round, comes with a helical cut. What that means is the grip on the rod itself is in a spiral fashion to give it more abrasiveness.

Also keep in mind, honing rods are made of different materials. This one, for instance, stainless steel much more abrasive than the knife so that way it can … much more abrasive and harder than the knife. That way it can actually shape the blade itself.

This one, this oval one, is actually diamond-plated. Anything that involves diamond is also going to do a little bit of sharpening, but you’re not quite sharpening as if you would with a stone itself. Again, these are called honing rods. They’re first purpose is honing your blade. Again, if you have a diamond in it, it does a little bit o sharpening, but don’t count on it.

How do you distinguish what kind of sharpness your blade has, and does it need honing or sharpening? Great way is a tomato. Somewhat overused. It gets a little cut up at the first beginning bite through the skin of the tomato. This blade, if you think about it, is still fairly sharp. We could use a typical honing steel rod. Again, then if your blade is slightly dull, you’re going want it, you can also use a diamond rod. That way you can get a little bit of sharpness on and grinding on your blade. Then if your blade is totally blunt and you can’t even get through the skin of the tomato, you’re going to want to sharpen your blade all the way.

We’re using a steel round honing rod. Then you’re going to want to think about an angle on German knives. Typically the angle of the bevel to the blade is about 20 to 22 degrees. Then on Japanese knives, the blades are little bit thinner, but they’re also a little bit stronger. Those angles go to about 12 to 15 degree.

Again, we’re using a German blade so we’re just going to go for a rough 20 to 22 cut. Best way to do that is put your blade parallel with the rod itself. That’s 90 degrees, and you’re going to think 45. Then bring it back to the half of the 45. That’s roughly 22 ½. From there, you want to think about a nice consistent stroke. The stroke you want to take is from the top of the rod to the bottom of the rod, but simultaneously on the bias from the heel of your blade to the tip of the blade, all in one simultaneous motion. Then rotate on the next side. Keep rotating back and forth, left and right, until you made a significant amount of passes, probably about 12.

Now that we have a nice reshaped blade from honing our knives, we can see that this will get to the tomato a little bit better. Keep in mind, if honing did not quite do the job that you were looking for and you’re still having difficulties cutting through your tomatoes and onions, you might want to think about trying to sharpen it with a sharpening stone.

Last but not least are little bit more of the handheld honing devices themselves. I tend to think this is a little bit more dangerous, but that’s all up to you. Mostly, this one that is handheld because you’re actually preening the blade towards your fingers. This is a very nice one. It comes with two grips as well, a fine and a coarse. Again, same thing applies. You’re going to want to put your blade in there, keep a nice, firm pressure, and make a consistent stroke all the way back. The nice thing about this one is it has the angled pre-determined for you.

They also make this version in electric as well. That way, you don’t have to do much work yourself especially if you need a lot of work done to your blade. Also keep in mind, these two devices were really made for honing. Unless they have a diamond steel within them, like we mentioned earlier, it does do a little bit of sharpening, but, again, these are designed for honing. The real sharpeners out there are stone and grinders.

Again, I’m Chris Tavano and this is Tundra Restaurant Supply with knife honing and maintenance. 

Before taking action from the content or resources published here, we request that you visit and review our terms of use.

Continue Reading

Fixing Commercial Fryers [Video]

With almost 300 comments on our Repairing Commercial Fryers post, we figured it was time to get a video out there to better illustrate how easy it can be to fix a fryer yourself.  In this video, Chris Tavano, walks you through calibrating the thermostat, bypassing the hi-limit, taking out the thermopile, taking out the combination safety gas valve, and other troubleshooting tips for commercial fryers.  Please note, before fixing any kitchen equipment, you should ensure the power and/or gas is off first (in the example below, you’ll calibrate the thermostat before turning off power and gas).

For more information, please see our previous post on how to fix commercial fryers.


Hello, welcome to Tundra Restaurant Supply.  I’m Chris Tavano and I’m here to troubleshoot some fryer maintenance today.  Common problems we tend to see are thermostat controls and calibration; in other words, your pilot light won’t stay lit, your burner won’t ignite, your oil is too hot or is too cold.  A lot of common problems associated with that are the gas burner safety valve, as well as, the hi-limit control and thermopile [Chris said thermopiler, but it is indeed formally called a thermopile].  Today, we will be using our Frymaster MJ35 for our example maintenance.

Calibrating the Thermostat: Checking the Oil Temperature Against the Fryers Thermostat

Alright, so first thing we’re going to talk about is the thermostat and how to calibrate the thermostat to help calculate exactly what the problem is.  So, a lot of times you’ll have your thermostat, and your hi-limit shutoff is around 450⁰.

So, what you want to do is set your thermostat to 350⁰, get a thermometer and put it in the oil basin itself, and you want to make sure that, that comes up to the temperature of 350⁰. At the same time, when that temperature has reached on the thermometer, you’re going to lower your thermostat down to about 250⁰ until it clicks off.  And then you’re going to turn it slightly up, and let the oil cool down.  And when that valve kicks back on for the fire, you’re going to make sure that, that temperature on your thermostat is also what’s reading in the thermometer that’s sitting in the oil.


Once you’ve identified the problem of your thermostat being off from the actual fryer oil temperature, the first place to look is your hi-limit switch.  And what the hi-limit does is a safety precaution saying that it’s going to turn off your fryer at exactly 450⁰, and never go higher than that. 

What we’re going to do in here is, you take your two-wires that go to your hi-limit switch, and we’re just going to unscrew them, and switch them in place to bypass that [we’re bypassing the hi-limit switch here].  We’re going to take the one that gives us the source to the thermopile.  This one is our actual limit, and we’re just going to bypass it and go instead to the thermopile.  Really, all you need to do is get the one that connects back to the thermopile so we have a constant source again of that flame.


Alright, if you found out that your hi-limit switch is not the problem, the next place to look is your thermopile.  A thermopile converts your thermal energy into electrical energy.  It is the source of your thermostat.

Back in this corner here we have our pilot light and our thermopile. The thermopile is the rod that is connected to this snaked wire.  Takeout [usually unscrew] the probe itself and there’s your thermopile. [The thermopile needs to be checked for corrosion or broken wires and replaced if damaged.]

Combination Gas Safety Valve

If you’ve found out that the hi-limit and thermopile are not the culprit of your thermostat controls, the next place to look is the combination safety gas valve.  That is not an easy thing to replace, it is not a quick thing to replace, and it’s not necessarily cheap, but it is something that needs to be done, and it’s much better than buying a whole new fryer itself.

If you look at this particular model, the whole unit of the [combination] safety gas valve itself cannot be removed from right here, so what you’re going to do is find your closest joints.  Unscrew those, and your other one right here.  And your actually going to pull out the entire device with all of the component pipes associated with it.  Once you pull that out, you can replace these pipes [take the pipes off of the combination safety gas valve] so that way you have the actual safety gas valve itself.  And then you can get that replaced, you can hook it back up to your previous pipes, and then again, you can screw that back on to the actual gas lines themselves.


Alright, so your last troubleshooting tip would be the thermostat itself.  If you find that you’ve gone through all of that stuff, and your pilot light is staying lit, but however, you aren’t holding temperature through what you had calibrated earlier, and it’s not being consistent, odds are the thermostat itself is bad and needs to be replaced.

Other Common Problems

Alright, so other common problems to try and troubleshoot with your fryer tend to be [small] explosions, it’s too hot or metal fatigue.  A lot of times, you’ve got to check the basin of your fryer itself, and make sure that there are no thin spots, worn out spots or any holes within the basin.  If that exists, you have to get a new fryer.

Other places you need to look are in your exhaust manifolds and in the flume burners themselves.  A lot of times they get caked with grease and excess runoff, and over time, those just don’t get cleaned out the same way that the oil basin itself gets cleaned.  So you’re going to want to check those on a monthly or quarterly basis, and try to clean out the soot.  If it’s caked in there, odds are you might need a new fryer as well.

Another common mistake is liquid propane to natural gas conversions.  Those are one-way valves, so to convert from natural gas to liquid propane, there’s one valve for that.  To go from liquid propane to natural gas, there’s a different valve for that.

For more information, please see our previous post on how to fix commercial fryers.

Before taking action from the content or resources published here, we request that you visit and review our terms of use.

Continue Reading

Glassware 101: A Guide to Choosing the Right Drinking Glass


Choosing glassware that compliments your business or home is key. Glassware can set the mood for your dining room, bar and at home entertaining requirements. Choosing glassware that best suits your beverage needs is important to your dining guests. eTundra offers glassware in a variety of styles and options including: high-ball glasses, cocktail glasses, collins glasses, wine glasses and more.

Shop All Glassware

Continue Reading →

Continue Reading

Vintage Range With Broken Thermostat


I have a vintage Detroit Star range from the 30’s or 40’s.  It has a Robertshaw thermostat control for the oven, but I think that the therm or tube is defective. Any ideas on someone that can check it out?  I live in Duluth, MN.

Thanks,  Richard

  • Hey Richard, Is there a possibility you can send me a couple of pictures of the thermostat? Or can you get any numbers off of it? With pictures or numbers I may be able to find it for you. 

Robertshaw Control

Robertshaw Control 3

Robertshaw Control 2


Hey Richard,

The BJWA type thermostat replacement you can use is item #461037. It comes as a kit.

You can get it through or you can call them at 800-447-4941 and any of the sales people can help you with it. You would need to call them for pricing and availability.

Let whom ever you talk to know that this is the one that I have recommended.

Hope this helps!

Continue Reading

Fryer Fire Low

QuestionRestaurant Fryer

When I put in a small batch of food in the fryer, the fire is perfectly normal; however, when I fry a large batch, the fire becomes so small that the fryer can’t even heat the food.  Do you think the problem is that the thermostat is bad?  How much would you say that part is?  Thank you.



Hi Amie,

Ok if you are putting in a lot of frozen product at one time it may be that your fryer does not have enough BTU’s to keep up. Even if it is a large amount of thawed product it may still be that your fryer does not have enough BTU’s to handle the quantity.

When you do large quantities it drops the oil temperature so much so quickly that it can not get back to temperature quickly enough to fry properly.

When you fry just a small amount and it works fine then I would say there is nothing wrong with the thermostat.

Hope this helps.

Continue Reading

Dreamstaurant Contest 2012

Dreamstaurant 2012 has come to a close, but be sure to visit us next year for another round of fun!


Dreamstaurant Giveaway

Tundra Restaurant Supply is excited to announce the Dreamstaurant 2012 winner: Chef Adam Hegsted!

Quick Contest Facts

  • Grand Prize: $20,000 – A restaurant design and product package to help one lucky restaurateur realize their dream restaurant concept
  • Two (2) Home Chef Prizes: two $500 Tundra shopping sprees for home chefs who enter the two best home kitchen ideas
  • Celebrity chef Kelly Liken, a finalist on Bravo’s Top Chef, will sit on Dreamstaurant’s panel of judges and help Tundra select the winner. Chef Kelly, owner and operator of Restaurant Kelly Liken, worked with Tundra’s restaurant designer Jeff Katz on the design of her dream restaurant in Vail, CO.
  • Contest timeline: Entries accepted from October 1, 2012 thru December 31, 2012. Winners will be announced January 21, 2013.
  • Those that qualify for the Grand Prize will receive a follow up survey and then Tundra will select the Grand Prize winner with the help of our professipanel. All other contestants will be eligible for the two second place prizes.
  • In 2013, follow our winner’s progress creating their Dreamstaurant on

Why, Who and What

  • Tundra’s mission is to achieve success through the success of our customers. That’s why Tundra has decided to help one lucky food service entrepreneur realize their dream and start their own restaurant.
  • The contest is great for aspiring restaurant owners, existing owners who want to remodel, and anyone who has ever dreamed about creating a dream home kitchen.

Dreamstaurant Sponsors

Premier Sponsors

Comark Logo T&S

Prize Package Sponsors

Robot Coupe Mercer
Star Norlake
Continue Reading

Replacing Refrigeration Door Gaskets

The rubber door gasket on the inside edge of the doors of all your refrigeration equipment is very important. It prevents cold air from escaping, which means the unit will stay colder longer and use less energy.  Old refrigeration door gaskets wear out and lose their seal. Even worse, older gaskets can pose a food safety risk because they begin to collect grime and food bits and become a breeding ground for bacteria.

Luckily, it’s easy to replace door gaskets!  There are several different styles of gaskets. To ensure you get the proper gasket, gather the following information:

1. Dimension of gasket – Measure from outside corner to outside corner for both height and width.

2. Manufacturer – Get the manufacturer’s name and the model and serial number of the piece of equipment (the serial number may not be needed).  Search for refrigeration door gaskets by manufacturer here.

3. Style –  Check to see if the gasket is magnetic or non-magnetic(compression). Almost all newer refrigeration equipment will have a magnetic gasket. A magnetic gasket will be hard and square at the point where it contacts the inside frame of the unit. Magnetic gaskets will also snap shut when you hold the door less than an inch from the frame because the magnet attracts to the metal.

Magnetic door gaskets are the most common

Magnetic door gaskets are the most common

Compression gaskets usually need a door latch to hold them tight in place to get a good seal. These gaskets are soft and compress easily at the point where they contact the inside frame of the unit.

A compression style door gasket

A compression style door gasket

Door gaskets are also categorized by how they attach to the door.  There are 3 ways a door gasket mounts on a door: snap in (or dart), push in, and screw in.

How To Replace Refrigeration Door Gaskets By Style

Snap in (or dart) door gaskets

Note the arrow shaped "dart" in the middle.  This snaps into a slot on the door.

Note the arrow shaped “dart” in the middle. This snaps into a slot on the door.

Removal – Remove the old gasket by grabbing a corner and pulling.  The dart section of the gasket, which fits snugly into a slot in the door frame, will pull out.

Installation – To install the new refrigeration door gasket, soak it in hot water for a few minutes. This will make it more flexible.  Begin by snapping in a top corner first. Then, using a mallet or a block of wood and hammer, tap into place the top of the gasket. Continue by installing the sides from top to bottom, and finally the bottom.

Note: Make sure the hinge side of the gasket does not roll under when you close the door.  If it does, push it into position and you may have to tape the door closed to get the gasket to seat itself. You might also try a hair dryer to heat the gasket as this will help it seat. (Make sure you don’t melt the gasket!)

A push in style door gasket

A push in style door gasket

Push in refrigeration door gaskets

Removal – Remove the old gasket by grabbing a corner and pulling!

Installation – Push in gaskets may require vinyl cement. To install the new gasket brush some vinyl cement into the channel and press the gasket into the channel.

Note: Make sure the hinge side of the gasket does not roll under when you close the door.  If it does, push it into position and you may have to tape the door closed to get the gasket to seat itself.  You may also use a hair dryer to heat the gasket as this will help the gasket seat.  (Make sure you don’t melt the gasket!)

Screw in door gaskets

Removal – Simply remove screws.

Installation – Screw in the new gasket using retainer strips.

A screw in style door gasket. Note the strip for screwing in the gasket.
Continue Reading