Why is Going Local So Hard

Photo Credit: Nikki Rae Photography

To discuss the U.S. food system is to wrestle a juggernaut. Full of rich complexities that are difficult to discern and dependencies that are too easy to overlook, one can’t help to feel like discussions fall into circular paths like a hamster on his wheel.

You might even say in one simple phrase, “The food system is broken.”

Why? Because we know that food waste makes up the largest material (21%) and 40% of all food produced in the U.S. being thrown away, while at the same time food-insecure households make up 12.3% of the U.S. population. If that hasn’t raised alarm bells in your head, consider this: a senior analyst in the waste division at the Environmental Protection Agency estimates that food waste from restaurants makes up 15% of all the food that ends up in landfills.

Restaurateurs know this, and one way they are combating waste is by going local. But why is going local so hard?

At the 2018 Eat Colorado Food Show, local industry leaders Spencer Lomax (Director of Sourcing, The Kitchen Restaurant Group), Kenny Meyer (Local Forager, Whole Foods Market), Adam Schlegel (Co-Founder, Snooze an A.M. Eatery) and Chef Jorge de la Torre (Johnson & Wales University) shared their thoughts on the challenges and opportunities for going local in the panel, “Local Sourcing & How to Make It Work.”

1. Going Local Means Limited Resources

Part of the challenge to go local is that we are “recreating a food distribution stream from nothing” says Meyer. It’s simply easier to work with a single purveyor when it comes to your produce, protein and even supplies and equipment—but what can be said about quality or sustainable practices? Those are much harder to track in large-scale operations.

Many of those who want to go local simply don’t know where to start, because there’s no “how-to” guide in doing so. Finding local farms for the ingredients you need is challenging, and developing those relationships with smaller operations takes time. And depending on your geographic location, some foods just can’t be grown locally. In these situations you have to ask yourself, is it worth serving those juicy, heirloom tomatoes during a dark, cold December because your customer loves them? Lomax suggests that to succeed, you have to be flexible with your menus and adapt to seasonality. You can even use it as an opportunity to try new menu items or ingredients. De la Torre also suggests following the 2/3 rule, “Give them 2 things they’re comfortable about and jazz them with the 3rd.”

2. Going Local is Expensive

The rewards of going local means higher quality, fresher food that adhere to sustainability practices you support—but all of that comes at a price. The food might not need to travel as far, but local farmers face downward pressures of their own including years of historically low commodity prices, an aging demographic, and the high cost of labor.

Restaurateurs might relate to those challenges, but what about consumers?

Consumers have been conditioned by dollar menus which distort their perception of the true cost of food. Education on responsible and sustainable farming practices will be key to changing the way we think about food, which has been a longstanding pursuit of Daniel Asher (Chef and Partner of River and Woods, and Executive Chef/Founder of EcoChef Culinary Services). “$12 – $13 is the cost of an intelligent, mindful burger,” says Asher.

You may be surprised how much a customer is willing to pay for that arugula salad once they understand where and how it was grown, and why supporting the local economy is important. As a chef you have a platform—a menu—to educate customers on these important issues…and chances are, they’ll like you and your restaurant even more for it.

3. Going Local Means You Have to be Nimble

“If you don’t get sales, is it worth it?”

A pointed question to ask, but an important one. It’s tempting to be driven by price and convenience that comes with partnering with a large distributor. But when it comes to building a local food economy that supports local food for everyone, de la Torre reminds us, “No one remembers no smoking in bars. Right now, for one person it’s tough [to go local], but do it together and it’s a little better.”

Be nimble and work with farmers as a partner. When you share in the mutual risk with farmers, you can help alleviate some of the burden they face while also sharing in the rewards.

“Start small and get tiny wins,” adds Schlegel.

About Natalie Fauble

Natalie Fauble is the Online Marketing Manager - Content & SEO for Tundra Restaurant Supply. As a digital marketer with a passion for the restaurant industry, Natalie helps companies shape their brand through thoughtful, fun and innovative content strategies. When she isn't blogging for Tundra Restaurant Supply you can find her in her vegetable garden or in the kitchen whipping up one of her favorite dishes.

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