Critical Note – Never run the warmer without water!
For best results, use the model and serial number on your warmer to identify the right part or call 1-888-388-6372 for help.
There are only four components that can fail in these units.
1. Thermostat (infinite control, bi-metal, or thermostat with capillary)
2. Element
3. Hi-limit
4. Indicator light
Failure of any of these parts with the exception of the indicator light will cause the unit to fail.
How do I repair my warmer? Which part do I need?
If your warmer is not working at all, begin by unplugging the unit. Remove the bottom panel and inspect the element for burn spots. Look for burned wires and connectors. If the wiring and element appear fine the next step would be to check the hi-limit switch.
This will require an electrical test instrument. You can use either a simple continuity tester or a multi-tester.
Begin by disconnecting the wires from the hi-limit switch. Set your tester on the continuity setting and put the leads from the tester on each side of the hi-limit. If there is continuity (a constant beep from the tester) through the high limit, then it is good. If there is no continuity the hi limit is bad and must be replaced.
Let’s discuss the thermostat. You have one of three types.
1. Infinite control – These usually have five to six pins coming out of the back. To test this control, use your electrical tester. Set it on the continuity reading. Make sure the infinite control is turned on! Connect one lead to H1 the other to H2. If there is no continuity reading between H1 and H2 then the control is bad and must be replaced.
2. Bi-metal – This is an open control and you can see the contact points inside of it. Turn the stem to see if the points open and close. If the points do not snap together, the control is bad and must be replaced.
3. Capillary type thermostat – The last thermostat is one that has a capillary tube with a bulb at the end (attached to the control). Follow the same procedure for testing as you would for the infinite control.
4. Last is the indicator light. If the light burns out it will not effect the operation of the unit. It is simply there to indicate if the unit is on or off.
You can also test the element with the electrical tester set for continuity. Remove both wires from the element and put the leads from the tester across the element connections. If continuity exists you will hear a continuous beep from the tester. If there is no beep, the element is bad and must be replaced.
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