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Repairing Commercial Fryers

When your fryer needs to be repaired you probably want to get it up and running again fast.  Fortunately, commercial fryers are generally easy to repair, and parts are also pretty easy to come by.  There are 4 fryer parts that most commonly cause a fryer to fail:

1. Hi-Limit
2. Thermopile
3. Combination Safety Gas Valve
4. Thermostat

How to Determine What the Problem Is

BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER AND/OR GAS FIRST!

If the pilot light will not stay lit, 1 of 3 things have failed:

  1. Hi-Limit. First, check to see if the hi-limit is the culprit by taking one wire off and connecting it with the other wire.  Do as you always do and light the pilot.  If the pilot remains lit, then the high limit is bad and needs to be replaced.  To replace the hi-limit, you first need to empty the oil from the tank.  This needs to be done because the sensing bulb for the hi-limit enters through the side of the tank.  There is a large nut in the side of the tank and a smaller nut inside the large nut, loosen and pull these off.  Now you can remove the defective high limit.  Reverse the procedure to install the new hi-limit.  Always screw the larger nut into the tank first and then the smaller nut.  Light the pilot and your unit should be working.Repairing Commercial Fryers
  2. Thermopile. If the pilot still will not stay lit, then the thermopile is most likely the culprit.  One end is attached to the pilot and the other is attached to the gas valve.  Remove the thermopile from both places and replace.  Light the pilot, and if it remains lit you are good to go.  Also, remember to reconnect the hi-limit wire.Repairing Commercial Fryers
  3. Combination Safety Gas Valve. If the pilot still will not stay lit, then the only thing left is the combination safety gas valve.  To replace the combo valve, you will need to have a couple of pipe wrenches.  This is the most difficult part to change, due to the limited space.  Remember to install the new gas valve in the same direction and replace all the connections.Repairing Commercial Fryers

If the pilot is lit, but the fryer still does not work, the thermostat may be faulty.  Only 3 things can happen:

  1. Either the burner will not light when turned on even though the pilot is lit.
  2. The oil will not get hot enough.
  3. When the oil reaches temperature it will not shut off.

Thermostat. In either case the thermostat will need to be replaced.  If it is running wild (will not shut off) the oil will overheat causing the hi-limit to trip out and shut everything off.  By resetting the hi-limit and relighting the pilot and it stays lit, then you will know that the thermostat is not good.  To replace the thermostat follow the same instructions for replacing the hi-limit.Repairing Commercial Fryers

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343 Responses to Repairing Commercial Fryers

  1. Don bennice July 26, 2009 at 6:48 pm #

    My deep fryer is a liberty 115000btu propane unit and after using it for about half an hour at 375degrees it quits.. I wonder if I need a new thermocouple? I press the red reset high limit button then turn the gas valve off and wait 2 or 3minutes relight the pilot it comes on turn it to gas on the knob and then I turn the thermostat to 350 or so and nothing happens… Could the high limit be faulty ??? Do I have to wait longer? Will the fryer work without the high limit control??

    • Greg McGuire July 27, 2009 at 11:36 am #

      Hi Don,

      We’re pretty sure your thermostat and your high limit are shot. Read the post above for some instructions on testing your high limit.

      More importantly, though: how old is this fryer? I know quite a few people who have been in the food service equipment business for a long time and only one of them had ever even heard of a Liberty fryer. It might be time to upgrade: click here to take a look at some new fryers.

      As far as finding replacement parts for your Liberty, I’m not really sure what to tell you. You can try calling 1-888-388-6372 (Tundra Specialties: they don’t stock Liberty parts but they MIGHT be able to special order them).

      Good luck.

    • Gas Guy June 27, 2013 at 3:28 pm #

      Fryers cost 600-700 dollars new. The actual likely culprit is the thermostat is “stacking” – temperatures climb each time the burners cycle on until finally it shuts off on high limit. The high limit is not shot since its obviously doing its job. Replacing high limit and thermostat are probably not worth it since you can buy new for only a few hundred dollars more.

  2. Erik Frasco September 13, 2009 at 7:51 am #

    I have an Imperial ifs50 recently replaced hi limit now 3 weeks later the pilot stays lit and the burners just slightly f licker ( like just a little gas is coming trouugh) I have a replacement thermostat i temporary wired it in and it still wont light the burners. Possibly the Valve???

    • Greg McGuire September 14, 2009 at 8:25 am #

      Hi Erik,

      Your problem is most likely your combination safety valve. Also make sure you check your burner orifices as well for any obstructions. Click the link at the top of this post to order a new combo safety valve with same day shipping.

  3. Strac October 15, 2009 at 6:09 am #

    Hi,

    I have a American Range fryer Model # AF45 , the problem I’m having is when I go to turn the thermostate on the pilot light goes out every time. I relight the pilot light and go to restart by turning the knob and it goes out. Can you help me in determining what needs to be replaced. Thanks!

    • Greg McGuire October 15, 2009 at 6:46 am #

      Hi Strac,

      You need to go through a process of elimination to determine why the pilot light will not stay lit. You need to test the hi limit, the thermopile, and the combination safety valve to find the culprit. Follow the instructions in the post above starting with “1. If the pilot will not stay lit:”

  4. Strac October 15, 2009 at 3:09 pm #

    Hi Greg,

    After testing the Hi limit and finding that it was fine I changed the thermopile and the fryer workes just fine. Thanks for the help. I do have another question for you, Is there a way to test the thermopile to see if it is working without buying a new one. I think I saw some kind of device somewhere to do that. Thanks again for your help!

    Regards,

    Strac

    • Greg McGuire October 16, 2009 at 6:51 am #

      Hi Strac,

      It is technically possible to test the thermopile without changing it out, but you would need a first-rate voltage meter that went down to millivolts. That’s because the thermopile only registers about 750 millivolts of power when it’s working. That requires a pretty sensitive instrument that’s going to cost you some money.

      Unless you already have a voltage meter that is that sensitive, it’s going to be much cheaper to change out the thermopile and see if that fixes your problem.

      Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!

  5. manny November 19, 2009 at 11:27 am #

    My deep fryer has several holes in the stainless steel tub, whats the best way to repair this? can “JB weld” be used?

    • Greg McGuire November 19, 2009 at 12:22 pm #

      Hi Manny,

      I’m sorry to say you’re going to need to replace your fryer. Those holes are a result of stress fractures in the stainless steel that form over years of superheating and cooling. No matter how much you try to patch those holes, more are going to form as metal fatigue gets worse and worse.

      Sorry to be the bearer of bad news… But you can check out new fryers here: commercial fryers.

  6. Gerald December 14, 2009 at 8:56 pm #

    Hello

    We have a Pitco Frialator at work. For some reason, in the afternoon around 1 or 2pm the fryer would go crazy bubbling and boiling violently, like there was air coming from the bottom of the fryer. It did NOT have the sound like there was water in it. The fryer has been on all morning and only this happens in the afternoon. We could never figure out what is wrong with it. Please advise.

    Thank you so much!

    Gerald

    • Greg McGuire December 15, 2009 at 8:54 am #

      Hi Gerald,

      It sounds like you have two problems: firstly, your thermostat is “running wild” and needs to be replaced. Secondly, your hi limit is also shot and needs to be replaced as well. Running a fryer without the hi limit is extremely dangerous! Oil in the fryer should never, ever boil, and if it is, then you’re running the risk of a serious fire.

      Please don’t use the fryer until you’ve replaced these two parts! The information on how to replace these two parts is in the post above.

  7. Mike Hendry January 7, 2010 at 7:11 pm #

    I was reading Gerald’s problem. I have 4 pitco units operating and my fry shop. We had the same problems with our systems. We use real potatoes and the starch and small bits would sit in a hot frier for about 4 to 5 hours without a sound. All of a sudden these small bits would surface suddenly and all at once. Makes a horrible sound and is very scary. Our friers are working properly and the temperatures remain proper. We fixed this by (using a long PTFE brush) brushing the bottom of the friers 2 hours after opening and skim the remenants off. We filter our friers at 2-3 pm every day. I hope this may help.

  8. Ian Philbrick March 13, 2010 at 6:44 pm #

    I have a two year old American Range that has been used a total of 6mos. and now has a small tank leak. It is no longer under manftr. waranty. Manf. was willing to give me a deal on new tank but with shipping and labor I’m still looking at $600. Can the leak be succesfully fixed another way? Or a new fryer.

    • Greg McGuire March 15, 2010 at 9:06 am #

      Hi Ian,

      Unfortunately, there is no easy way to fix a tank leak on a fryer. I’m surprised it developed a leak so quickly, but in general, when a leak develops it is because of metal fatigue from constant heating and cooling and patching won’t change the fact that the metal is worn. I would suggest purchasing a new fryer here.

  9. Lawerence Saylor March 15, 2010 at 9:48 pm #

    I saw your blog bookmarked on Furl. I love your site and articles. Keep up the great work.

  10. Andrea March 17, 2010 at 3:41 pm #

    I have a Pitco unit, no idea how old. The pilot won’t stay lit. Everytime the fryer goes out we have to hit the reset switch and then go through the process of lighting it again. We set it to 350 and in about 10 minutes or less the whole thing goes out. The Pilot flame looks alittle low on one side (not sure if its always been like that). Also a year ago or so we replaced the thermopile although we really didn’t need to, we just didn’t know about the reset button. Any help would be great. Thanks

    • Gas Guy June 27, 2013 at 3:41 pm #

      Get a multimeter and test at the points where the thermopile connect to the combination gas valve. If millivoltage levels are around 200 or lower its not enough to engage the burner valve. You really should have 450 millivolts or more. If millivolts are low, check the pilot flame for proper impingement around the top of the thermopile. Most Combination gas valves have a pilot adjustment screw which may be loosened to increase gas flow. Remove the top screw where it says “pilot adjustment” and get a smaller flat head screwdriver to loosen the screw inside. If that doesn’t help, check for debris in the pilot head. Also, check the vent at the appliance regulator on the combination gas valve for debris / oil clogs. Clearing the clogs usually alleviates pressure problems.

      If the “reset switch” you’re referring to is the high limit reset, you likely need a new thermostat. Test oil temperature with a probe to ensure the burners are not overheating the fryer oil. The high limit is designed to cut off gas supply if the temperature exceeds 450 degrees (and that’s a good thing!). If its shutting itself off due to too-high temperatures, you definitely need a new thermostat. If the temperatures are fine and millivoltage levels are good from the thermopile, the problem is likely a failing high limit.

  11. Don L May 16, 2010 at 5:17 pm #

    Hi You metioned of never hearing of A Liberty fryer I have two of them ”
    Liberty35 Basic” 100,000 btu
    they are both workink fine one is A year old and the other new the only thing I find worng is they both make A popping sound sort of like a back fire from an older car could you tell me what would cause this

    thanks Don L

    • Greg McGuire May 20, 2010 at 2:42 pm #

      It’s hard to say what’s causing that sound Don. My guess is frozen food bits or ice crystals dropping into the hot oil, but I can’t say for sure. Sorry I can’t be more help!

  12. ROBBY June 11, 2010 at 4:41 pm #

    HELLO I HAVE A PICTO EF3 DEEP FRYER, THE PILOT STAYS LIT BUT WHEN I ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT NOTHING HAPPENS, IM GUESSING THE HIGH LIMIT IS FINE BECAUSE THE PILOT STAYS LIT, I TRIED TO JUMP PAST THE THERMOSTAT AND SEE IF IT WOULD LIGHT BUT THAT DIDNT WORK EITHER. IM NOT SURE IF THAT IS POSIBLE ANYWAY I THINK IT IS BUT NOT SURE. AT FIRST THE FRYER WOULD TAKE FOREVER TO GET GOING BUT NOW WONT DO ANYTHING. AND IM TORN BETWEEN THE THERMOSTAT THERMOPILE AND GAS VALVE IS THERE ANY MORE TESTS I CAN DO TO FIGURE OUT WHICH ONE IS BAD? THANKS

    • Greg McGuire June 15, 2010 at 12:07 pm #

      Hi Robby,

      The best thing for you to do would be to start with replacing the thermostat. However, the safety valve may also be bad. If you replace the thermostat and that doesn’t do the trick, you’ll have to replace that.

      • Chris June 23, 2013 at 4:07 pm #

        Hi, I have a pitco fryer, pilot stays lit but gas goes out when reaches temp, pilot remains lit however, any suggestions

        • Tundra Restaurant Supply June 24, 2013 at 9:34 am #

          Chris,

          Sounds like it may be your hi-limit or thermostat. Try following the steps above to test it out.

          Good luck.

  13. Jack Ho June 22, 2010 at 10:27 pm #

    Hi,
    I’ve an American Range deep fryer. When I turn it to pilot mode, it just give out a weak flame at the thermopile. I try to adjust the pilot flame at the adjustment knob. it just still be very small flame. The flame is so small that it could not ignite the thermopile. Please help!

    Thanks

  14. Jared June 28, 2010 at 1:24 pm #

    Hi I have many anet fryers and when I try to start one it makes a big bang and won’t lite what should I do?

  15. Todd L July 11, 2010 at 10:34 am #

    we have three Pitco,s two 18,s and 1 14 all three carbon up bad blowing carbon out of the chimny, also fire comes back to the front of each unit and the metal on the front gets real hot, we clean the burners and tubes once a month and make sure there is know blockage.

  16. Mark K July 17, 2010 at 8:41 am #

    Hi,

    Having trouble with a Pitco Fryer. The pilot stays lit and fryer works fine most of the time, but recently it appears to cut off for no apparent reason. You can hear the flames go out as if they are being blown out. There is not a draft that would cause this. Any suggestions? This may happen once a week or sometimes 3-4 times a night.

  17. Adam August 26, 2010 at 5:42 pm #

    Hi , recently read your post which helped me to determine my hi-limit is faulty really appreciate the info and how to test ! But im having a hard time believing theres no way to patch a leaky fryer , have an imperial ifs-40 and have a few small leaks around the cast iron heating tubes that go thru the tank , the leaks are at the front on the top of the tube where it meets the stainless tank ( not sure if the tubes are crimped and or welded/brazed to the tank ), i’m almost sure it is from the cast iron rusting from years of cleaning being exposed to water and air. Its been operating for atleast a few years with these leaks which are about 2 fl ounces in a 24hr period. I dont see the reason to purchase a new fryer at this rate , is there anyway to stop the leak ?

    • Greg McGuire August 27, 2010 at 11:08 am #

      Hi Adam,

      Glad we could help! On the leaking problem, it sounds like the stainless steel portion of the tank is slowly cracking due to metal fatigue (from constant heating and cooling). The problem with fryer tanks once they begin to leak is that the extreme temperatures involved make it almost impossible to patch a hole once it starts. This is because the metal expands and contracts so much.

      That leaking oil is a fire hazard and it sounds like it’s about time to replace your fryer. Sorry for the bad news!

  18. Sam September 7, 2010 at 11:39 am #

    Hi, I have 2 Imperial Friers, model IFS-40. One of it is broken. I saw the pilot light is weak. Before, everytime I turn it on, I have to use a knife or scew driver to knock the Combination Valve, then it works. However, after it takes breaktime, then I have to knock Combination Valve again, so it works again. Do you know which part is broken? I saw the above article, none of the above applies for my situation. Thanks!

    • Greg McGuire September 7, 2010 at 12:56 pm #

      You need to replace the combination safety valve. There’s a small plunger in the combination safety valve that is pushed open to allow gas to flow and shuts when gas is turned off. Over time that plunger wears out and starts sticking – yours is knocked loose every time you tap it. Luckily, replacing the combo valve is fairly easy! Just remember to turn the gas off first!!!!

      Buy a combo valve here: https://www.etundra.com/restaurant-parts/refrigeration-parts/combination-capacitors/.

  19. Mark G September 8, 2010 at 6:15 am #

    Got a Emperial IFS40 fryer and the pilot light will light but when the oil reaches the temp on the dial the pilot light shuts off. It does not matter what temp you set if still shuts off when it reaches that temp. What might I look at first. Thanks,MG

    • Greg McGuire September 8, 2010 at 10:41 am #

      Hi Mark,

      Sounds like you should start with the thermostat. Follow step 4 above and see if that takes care of the problem.

  20. mark g September 8, 2010 at 10:47 am #

    thank for the response.

  21. Randy Berndsen September 24, 2010 at 3:23 am #

    I have a dean deep fryer the pilot won’t stay lit I replaced the high limit switch & the gas valve I tried the thermopile from my other fryer still won’t stay lit what else could it be Thanks Randy

    • Greg McGuire September 27, 2010 at 10:20 am #

      Hmmm good question Randy. I would double check that you installed the gas valve in the correct direction, double check that the thermopile you’re using is functional, and double check the installation on the hi-limit. If those things check out, then I would call a service tech.

  22. MJ 42 September 26, 2010 at 9:36 am #

    Hello i have a cecielware GF28 countertop what would be the best way to clean the carbon? THANKS.

  23. sandy rock October 1, 2010 at 5:50 pm #

    We have a pitco and Dean having trouble with both sooting up . What is causing it and how can we stop the sooting

  24. James October 8, 2010 at 12:28 pm #

    To Todd
    I had the sam eproblem with carbon biulding up on a pitco fryer, you need to adjust your gas line pressure and this will stop the problem. I had my pressure really low and once I adjusted never had a problem again.

  25. Joe October 19, 2010 at 1:48 am #

    Hi, i have deep-fry, the pilot stays lit but the burners just slightly like obstruction some where or not enough gas goes through. Today, i opened all the pipes and ortifires clean-up and replace new combination saferty gas valve, reconnect all pipes and the wires same position as old one. Now, pilot stay lit, but the burner not light at all. Any help would be great. Thanks

    • Greg McGuire October 19, 2010 at 1:10 pm #

      Hi Joe,

      It sounds like your thermostat needs to be replaced. Try replacing that and see what happens.

  26. Joe October 23, 2010 at 11:50 pm #

    Thanks Greg!

    You are right, thermostat dead, changed another one working, but has other problem, the flame too strong, don’t know where to adjust pressure, look on the manual came with product, did not show the pressure setting. When i bought, its for NPG, but my deep-fry uses LPG and i only changed the spring supply with it, convert to LPG, is it the problem? Thanks for your help.

    Regards Joe.

    • Greg McGuire October 25, 2010 at 6:25 am #

      Hi Joe,

      Glad to hear the thermostat helped. I think there’s a good chance you need to convert to LPG. You should probably do this anyway, even if that’s not the problem. Good luck.

  27. Gary November 14, 2010 at 6:40 pm #

    I own 2 Frymaster GF14ST deep fryers. Recently I replaced on both the gas valves, the thermopiles, and the hi-limit switches. Both worked well for a while. Now one has a problem: thermostat set to around 375 degrees, when it reaches that temp. pilot goes out. When oil temp. drops, I re-light the pilot, temp. goes back up, then at 375 its goes out again. I do a lot of potatoes, am having to re-light after every order. Plz help.

    • Greg McGuire November 16, 2010 at 12:51 pm #

      Well, by process of elimination the thermostat is the only thing left Gary. I would try replacing that and see what happens… If you’re still having trouble then it’s probably time to call a service tech.

    • andrew hilt February 1, 2013 at 5:04 pm #

      Gas valve wiring could be landed wrong. Reference the schematic.

      • Tundra February 6, 2013 at 11:15 am #

        Hey Andrew,

        If the unit was wired wrong the valve would either not open at all or it would cause the valve to be wide open.

        If the valve does not open you would not be able to light the pilot.

        If the valve is wide open you can light the pilot and as soon as you do the burners will light but as soon as you turn on the thermostat everything shuts down because it has actually cut the power (millivolts) to the valve.

  28. joe helmueller December 2, 2010 at 11:54 am #

    we have a fryer at the legion we use for our chicken fries. fires up, runs a minute or two and then shuts down. faulty thermocouple or what? any advice appreciated. thanks in advance.
    Joe Helmueller adjutant.

    • Greg McGuire December 2, 2010 at 1:43 pm #

      Hi Joe,

      I would start at the top of this article with the hi limit. If that doesn’t work move on to the thermopile and then the combo safety valve and the thermostat.

  29. Greg December 14, 2010 at 10:07 am #

    Hello,

    I have a pitco Fryer, 35-C, and I cannot get the pilot to light at all. When I hold in the button to release the air out of the system, it stays lit until I release the button. I have been trying to light the pilot for about 2 hours now. Any suggestions? I purchased this fryer from a restaurant owner who went out of business. I converted the orifices to LP already. Please help

    • Greg McGuire December 14, 2010 at 11:46 am #

      Hi Greg,

      I think you need to completely convert your fryer. There are some other pieces that need converting besides your orifices. Check out this article on converting gas equipment for more info.

  30. Daniel January 19, 2011 at 2:09 pm #

    hi i was just wandering if any one can tell me if there is any one teaching or if there is any where were i can do a cours for fixing deep fat fryers in ireland or GB

    thanks in advance

  31. Rob Arbogast February 2, 2011 at 1:08 pm #

    I have a pitco 35c lp fryer. It fires up fine but when it reaches tempurature and shut down the nozzles? that release the gas to the fryer tubes light up with a little flame. Then when it reignites to heat the grease back to operating temp, it makes a roaring sound. If i blow out the little flames between reigniting, it works fine, until the next cycle. Then the flames light and it roars again. Is it the safety valve or the thermstat?

    • Tundra February 3, 2011 at 7:15 am #

      Hi Rob,

      Sounds like the combination safety valve is not closing all the way and allowing gas to fill the manifold thus the little flame. Not a good idea to blow them out because then you’re getting a gas build up that could explode when it does fire off again i.e. the roar you hear.

      Replace that combo safety valve!

  32. Rob Arbogast February 5, 2011 at 5:01 am #

    Thanks, That is what I thought. Just wanted your expert opinion before ordering the new one. Thanks again Rob Arbogast

  33. Al February 8, 2011 at 5:51 pm #

    I have an old DCS fryer that is puzzling me. It has three burners. The middle and RH burners fire up. The LH burner does not. I have cleaned the burners, orifices and manifold. Gas pressure is good. The tubes and flues are clean. I noticed it does not have ceramics or targets in the tubes. I don’t know if DCS used these – I can’t find a manual. I’m stumped.

    • Tundra February 9, 2011 at 7:29 am #

      Hi Al,

      The only thing that could cause such a problem is that the orifice is blocked. Try running a wire down into it or you might even have to remove it from the manifold to clean it out.

  34. Rob Arbogast February 10, 2011 at 11:46 am #

    Hi It is Rob Arbogast with the Pitco 35. I received the new safety valve. When replacing the old one, I discovered that an insect had made a nest at the gas intake side of the valve while the fryer was in storage. There was a screen there so none of the nest got into the valve. I replaced the old valve and the little flames on the three orafices reignited again. I then replaced it with the new valve. The little flames were still there. The roaring sound of early gas ignition stopped after a second but when the desired temp was reached and the gas cut off, the little flames reappeared. When I turned the thermostat off,with the little flames blown out by me, I was able to relight them with a lighter. I don’t think it is the safety valve, as both the new and the old seem to work the same way, Letting the gas at the orifices get the little flame when cycled off. The gas is still getting by the valve somehow, Please help. Thanks,Rob

    • Tundra February 11, 2011 at 8:03 am #

      Hi Rob,

      There are two possibilities. The thermostat may not be closing all the way allowing gas to leak by or it either has too little or to much gas pressure. Too much pressure will hold open the solenoid causing the gas to leak out, too little would not have enough pressure to keep it closed. You’ll have to have a service person check the gas pressure to set it properly. It should be running between 8 and 10 inches of water column.

    • william eng June 8, 2013 at 12:04 am #

      Did you find a solution to this? I have the same problem.
      Any help would be appreciated

      • Cheryl Ramos November 21, 2013 at 4:33 pm #

        Have a pitco 35C natural gas…orifices candling the same way. Had service tech here and he said gas valve.

        • Tundra Restaurant Supply December 11, 2013 at 8:59 am #

          Do you have the correct safety valve for that unit? You’re bypassing gas somehow, and may need to consult with Pitco directly to help them walk you through the issue. Check out their site for service videos and contact info: http://www.pitco.com/.

  35. Jeremy Katon February 17, 2011 at 7:39 pm #

    I had recently come across an unusual problem with a 13 year old gas fryer. The pot is leaking grease it appears to originate from the front end seam welds. The collection of burnt grease is flaking from the inner sides of this imperial 105000 btu 40 lb fryer. My question is simple what is a sound solution for the leaks on the pot.Would a through cleaning and stick welding the weak spots be a suitable solution or is it junk?

    • Greg McGuire February 18, 2011 at 6:25 am #

      Hi Jeremy,

      Once you start getting “metal fatigue” – tiny cracks in the welds and walls of the pot that form from the metal expanding and contracting over and over again as it heats then cools – that fryer is pretty much done. Any attempt at patching will only delay the inevitable and could introduce harmful chemicals or particles to the fryer oil, which wouldn’t be good for anyone.

      If you’re looking for a new fryer then check out these restaurant fryers.

  36. kenneth boone February 21, 2011 at 7:53 am #

    I have a IMPERIAL 40lb propane fryer, The fryer works fine but the only problem i have is that the flame is burning outside the tube near the pilot creating an hot skilet affect on the stainless steel surface.

    • Tundra February 21, 2011 at 11:23 am #

      Hi Kenneth,

      First, was it originally a propane unit? If it was natural gas was it converted to propane? Has it been doing this since you’ve had it?

      If it was propane from the factory then check to see if there is a blockage in the flue. This often happens over the years because nobody ever thinks to clean out the flue. The only other thing it could be is too much gas pressure.

      I’m willing to bet it’s the flue.

  37. Emery February 25, 2011 at 6:55 pm #

    Hi,
    I was working on a pitco fryer. I guess the model number is 400+ss. I had a problem with the pilot. I fixed it by cleaning the thermocouple. Other problem is that as soon as I turn the thermostat, the pilot quit. I checked high limit. It is ok. I am not %100 sure but I believe the thermostat also ok. I concern about safety valve. So what you guys think about.

    • Tundra March 2, 2011 at 1:52 pm #

      Hi Emery,

      I haven’t heard of nor can I find a model 400+ss. But thats ok. I would recommend you change the thermopile because even though you cleaned it it still may not be putting out the proper millivolts. Because when the thermostat is turned on it drops the flame size on the pilot when the burner goes to kick on. OR the combination safety valve is bad or the thermostat is bad – but only if it is a GS type thermostat. If it is a millivolt thermostat then it would be the combination safety that is defective. I would recommend you change out the thermopile first.

  38. Steven March 3, 2011 at 9:42 am #

    Hi, I was wondering if you could confirm two troubleshooting issues and potential fixes for me. The first one is a Wolf Fryer (Model# FS-WTF-42-S). The pilot works but as soon as I turn the knob to the ON position, the burner fires up and the thermostat basically has no effect at all. My suspicion is that there is either too much gas pressure, it’s LPG but I don’t have a pressure gauge to confirm it’s in the 9-11″ range, or the gas regulator valve is bad and needs to be replaced. Am I on the right track?

    The second question is on a Pitco Frialator 35C. The main burner turns on with the thermostat but never turns off with temperature. The only way to turn off the burner is to turn the thermostat dial all the way off again. The thermostat is bad right?

    Thanks in advance!

    • Tundra March 4, 2011 at 9:25 am #

      Hi Steven,

      If you turn on the thermostat and the burner fires and stays on then you have a defective thermostat. If it stays on then the oil would over heat and trip out the Hi Limit. If the Hi Limit does not trip then you have a defective Hi Limit also.

      The same applies for the second question including the Hi Limit.

  39. Elton J Baldwin March 10, 2011 at 7:12 am #

    pilot light lights but burner when it is turn on back fires and shuts off pilot light service man says
    we need new gas valve

    • Tundra March 10, 2011 at 12:02 pm #

      Hi Elton,

      This is another one where it sounds like the flue has a blockage in it or the burner tubes need to be cleaned out.

      Good luck!

  40. Brent March 15, 2011 at 4:20 am #

    Hi I have a fryer that was just cleaned and now after a few good days. The flames or yellow and the flames tool out and burn at orifices. Shut off thermostat and it continues to burn. Took fryer burners out and cleaned again had alot of really light black stuff in them. Put back together and worked fine for over a month. Now flames back to orifices again and thermostat will not shut off had to turn off at gas valve. It’s a three burner natural gas fryer old no name but looks like a frymaster

    • Tundra March 23, 2011 at 6:23 am #

      Hi Brent,

      My question is this. When you cleaned it was it disconnected from the gas line? It is possible that if it were water got into the gas line on the unit which means it got into the combination safety valve. Any amount of water can cause corrosion in side the valve causing it not to close all the way thus gas leaking by. This would explain the burning back to the orifices, and actually is burning into the manifold thus causing the soot problem. The flames blowing back when it comes on is probably from gas leaking into the chamber causing a gas build up thus boom.

      Hope this helps…

    • william eng June 8, 2013 at 12:06 am #

      Did you find a solution to your problem? I have a similar problem and situation. Any help is appreciated.

  41. Fred Howard March 25, 2011 at 4:50 pm #

    what has to be replace,when fire shoots out the back top of the fryer?

    • Tundra April 1, 2011 at 7:18 am #

      It could be that the safety is leaking by gas thus causing a build up in the flue causing the volcano.

  42. Ruth March 26, 2011 at 9:42 am #

    Hi, we’ve recently bought a catering trailer with an AJC fryer. We were told its working but when we try it nothing happens. The gas doesn’t appear to be getting to the fryer but is coming from the supply pipe ok when its disconnected from the fryer. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
    Ruth

    • Tundra April 1, 2011 at 7:17 am #

      Can you light the pilot and does it stay on? If it does not stay on then it may have a bad thermopile or the safety may be defective. The type of safety will determine if the thermopile can be replaced or if you have to replace the interior safety.

  43. Sham Falcon G2840 Infinty April 1, 2011 at 8:35 am #

    Folks, I own a restaurnat and have a Falcon G2840 Infinty Freestanding Fryer.

    Its about 4 years old and works a dream. I want someone to come and give it a good clean, but i have spent 2 days scouring the web to no avail, any ideas?

    Secondly, every hour or so it makes a mini explosion noise, a bit like a car back firing. Why is this? Is it dangeorus? Is it beacause the flue thing is blocked?

    Any help would be greatfully received. 07801 471981

    • Tundra April 7, 2011 at 4:55 am #

      The only thing I can think of as far as having your fryer cleaned is to google commercial restaurant hood cleaning. I did that and it comes up with a lot of hood cleaning companies. You may find one willing to clean their fryer for them.

      The other question. Could be if your flue thingy has a blockage it is causing a gas build up in the burner chamber and causing small explosions. Dangerous? Could be!

  44. Rami April 3, 2011 at 6:35 am #

    I have a pitco fryer… The pilot on my fryer stays on. However, when I go to turn the fryer on to go to my usual 350 degrees, the pilot goes out. I figured it would be the thermostat so I changed it. But that did not work. Did this ever happen to you? What could the problem be? Is it a thermopile? Please get back to me!

    • Greg McGuire April 7, 2011 at 1:36 pm #

      Sounds to me like the combination safety is bad if the pilot stays lit it is not usually the thermopile. It sounds like the the thermopile is generating the correct millivolts otherwise the pilot would not stay lit.

  45. Willie Sanford April 5, 2011 at 8:02 pm #

    One of my fryers(newest) will not stay up to temp. It goes back to pilot & you can wiggle the wires and it will ignite again. Sometimes working all day & night & sometimes going cold many times.

    • Greg McGuire April 7, 2011 at 1:36 pm #

      You need to check all wire connection to make sure they are all tight and that none of the wires are broken in side the insulation.

  46. Rami April 17, 2011 at 5:07 am #

    thanks guys! I will let you know what it is soon!

  47. Paul Chambers April 22, 2011 at 10:10 pm #

    Hi everyone: I have a frymaster deep fryer….70′s era…..it was converted from natural gas to propane…but they didnt change the pilot assembly for propane…..when it ignites the propane it is violent…..I think because the propane is heavier than air and fills up more inside the compartment before it ignites the propane……the flame goes straight up about 4 inches or so…………where can I get the correct pilot assembly? thanks Paul………..

  48. Jon Erickson April 24, 2011 at 10:26 am #

    I have a Nat gas American Range AF25/25 dual well fryer. One side works fine but the other side has a problem. In order to light the pilot I have to let the thermopile heat up for as long as 5 minutes. I have replaced the thermopile. For the pilot to stay lit I have to set the pilot flame level a bit higher which sends orange flames out of the exhaust during operation. I’m not using the bad side for safety but I’d really like to get it back up and running properly. Any ideas?

    • Greg McGuire May 3, 2011 at 10:53 am #

      Hi Jon,

      It sounds like the combination safety valve is bad. The coil inside of it is probably weak and increasing the pilot flame is generating a little more milivolts to open the valve. I would recommend changing out the combo safety valve.

  49. gary April 25, 2011 at 7:36 am #

    hi all ive got an lpg PITCO GAS FRYER 35C and ever since owning it ,it has left black soot around the burners and floor area also very orange flame with no roar as its ignited the only way i can sort of hold it back is by sandblasting the manifold every 3 months to clean out the holes ok thats fine but A is that a normal thing B yes its been gas checked C does anyone else suffer D im a mobile caterer and only have my fryers on for a couple hors at a time … ive spoken to pitco and they said sorry no help ive just changed gas suppliers to calor i was using flo gas thats helped a bit any clues PLEEEEEEAAAASSSSSSSEEEEE thanks in desperation gary

  50. Tim Timko May 16, 2011 at 12:01 pm #

    Hey all,I have a american range af-45 (about 10 yrs old) it’s holding flame for aprox. 10 minutes and shutting off.Any suggestions will help.thank you!

    • Greg McGuire May 17, 2011 at 4:00 am #

      Hi Tim,

      I would start by replacing the thermostat, then try the thermopile if that doesn’t do the trick.

  51. Tim Timko May 17, 2011 at 4:38 am #

    thank you for the advice greg,i,ll give it a try

  52. Michael May 18, 2011 at 4:49 pm #

    American Range LP Fryer 35/50 –
    Cannot light the pilot. No, it will not light AT ALL. Gas is flowing from the tank but seems to not release through the pilot tubing to the pilot. There is no hint of gas flowing through to the pilot. I am thinking it could be a pressure issue and will be checking that tomorrow. This is a brand new Fryer that has never been used.

    Thanks for any help!
    Michael

    • Tundra May 20, 2011 at 3:52 am #

      Hi Michael,

      Although this is a new fryer the orifice may be blocked (I have seen this happen before). I would disconnect the pilot tube from the pilot assy and press the pilot start button to see if you are getting gas through the tube itself. If you do then they need to take the pilot orifice out of the pilot assy and make sure there is no blockage.

      If that does not work then it is time to call for a warranty service call.

  53. dustro May 26, 2011 at 4:59 am #

    I have a problem with a pitco 35c=S fryer. We are a seasonal business and the fryers are dormant for 6 months or so each year. This problem began this year. I am able to light the pilot like I always have. It does seem to take longer for it to stay lit while holding the pilot knob. We have two of these units, the second one only needs to be held for a few seconds, this one takes 20 or 30 seocnds. Then it takes 30 minutes or so for the burners to light for the first time. After they light for the first time the unit works perfectly until the pilot is turned off. I checked the voltage from the thermopile and only get about 100mV when I first light the pilot. It slowly rises to about 250mV and then the main burners light. If I heat the thermopile with a lighter the burners light within a few seconds. I bought a new thermopile but am hesitant to install it as im not sure that this will solve the issue and it seems like a long process. I have tried to adjust the pilot and the adjustment screw does nto seem to have any effect on the size of the pilot flame. It also burns orange, not blue like our other unit. I tried to clean the pilot with compressed air and that didnt seem to have any effect. Any thoughts?

    • Tundra May 27, 2011 at 10:36 am #

      Go ahead and replace your thermopile. It sounds like the one you have is weak and that’s what causing all your problems. If that doesn’t work you’re going to have to replace the combination safety valve, but the thermopile should do the trick.

  54. nick haliti June 1, 2011 at 6:52 am #

    i have a imperial fryer the pilot stays on the burner wont come on i changed the thermostat still doesnt work i changed all the wires still not working any idea/

    • Tundra June 1, 2011 at 11:57 am #

      Hi Nick,

      Sounds like the combination safety valve is not opening. It could be stuck shut or the valve coil may be burnt out. Also if it is not wired right the pilot will stay lit but it will not energize the main valve coil. Call me at 1-800-447-4941 ext. 7104 if you need a wiring diagram.

  55. Doug ferkey June 3, 2011 at 11:54 am #

    Pilot stay lit until it reaching temp on a imperial. Ifs40. Then all flame including pilot shuts off. It is not overheating

    • Tundra June 6, 2011 at 12:26 pm #

      Hi Doug,

      Sounds to me like the hi limit is defective and tripping out prematurely. I’ll almost bet that you have to wait for it to cool before you can relight the pilot.
      You need this hi limit.

  56. Donal June 15, 2011 at 8:01 am #

    Hi,

    I have an imperial elite fryer. The pilot lights but when I turn the stat up it immediatley goes out. Is it a thermostat problem or the high limit stat

    • Tundra June 15, 2011 at 12:27 pm #

      Hi Donal,

      Sounds like your combination safety valve is the problem.

  57. Jim Dunstan June 15, 2011 at 5:46 pm #

    I have a Pitco 35C Frialator. When it heats up over 300 degrees the high limit kicks off and shuts the fryer down. Do I need to replace the thermostat and the switch, or just one or the other? Is it even worth it to guess?

  58. Jim Dunstan June 16, 2011 at 6:26 am #

    Hi, thanks for the quick reply. I’m not sure that it is the thermostat, because if I don’t turn it all the way up to my normal operating temp of 350 it will stay lit, it just won’t be hot enough to cook with. Thoughts?

  59. Robert June 19, 2011 at 3:59 am #

    Hi,

    I have an Imperial fryer that runs on propane that I used occaisionally for catering. It has been working fine for a few years, but the last 2-3 times, we are having a problem with flames coming forward inside the unit, heating up the “cool zone” and shooting out the gap in the door! Since I don’t know where to get asbestos underwear, I should probably fix the fryer! It seems to work fine otherwise. Any thoughts?

    • Tundra June 24, 2011 at 4:16 am #

      Hi Robert,

      Check the flue to make sure there is nothing blocking it. That is usually what causes the blow back.

  60. Lisa B June 25, 2011 at 1:52 pm #

    I have 3 Comstock Castle 2941sf all bought new this year. At festivals these things will run fine all day but at night the main burner shuts off. I can relight immediately but the main burner soon shuts off again. Each one of them will do it and they each do it intermittently. Can humidity affect performance??? Maybe a dumb question but it seems coincidental enough to ask.

    • Tundra June 27, 2011 at 7:12 am #

      Hi Lisa,

      That is a new one on me. So I called Comstock Tech Support and they say that high humidity can effect the hi limit. If moisture gets into it it can short it out causing the unit to shut down. My question is when the burner shuts down does the pilot go out too? Also do you have a regulator on the propane tank and the fryers?

  61. Kirk July 6, 2011 at 11:00 am #

    I need a wiring diagram for an Imperial ifs 40 deep fryer

  62. Walter N. Hughes July 6, 2011 at 3:51 pm #

    Hello I have a dean fryer purchased about one month ago was working great now can’t get the gas pilot light to light does this unit have some sort of battery that I need to look for if not just where does it get it’s voltage from 1.7 volts it’s a propane fryer model # SR142GP
    Serial # 1006MAO385 Thanks

  63. tara davis July 16, 2011 at 7:31 am #

    have an imperial natural gas fryer. has worked fine for two months, now pilot stays lit but main burner flames go out after about 2 hours. won’t come back on until next morning. can come in and turn it on works fine for about 2 hours again then burners out and pilot is on. any suggestions? thanks

  64. JORGE ACOSTA August 24, 2011 at 8:14 am #

    I HAD A DEAN FRIER MODEL SR142GN AND IM TRY TO FIND THE RESET BOTTON CAN U TOLD ME WHERE IS IT

    • Tundra August 25, 2011 at 5:09 am #

      Hi Jorge,

      There is no reset button on that unit. It has an auto reset hi limit. That means when the oil cools down it will automatically reset it’s self. It is located right next to the thermostat. You may have to remove the bracket that they are attached to get to it.

      If the hi limit is tripping out it is most likely because the thermostat is defective (running wild) causing the oil to over heat and tripping out the hi limit. If you need the thermostat you can find it here.

  65. mj42 September 6, 2011 at 6:36 am #

    problem with BG24 cecilware propane griddle not enough pressure going thru flames are really low ? clean them out also have propane. help does anyone know who can fix it anywhere close to bridgeport ct?

    • Tundra September 7, 2011 at 9:35 am #

      Sounds to me as though you have defective regulator. It has shut down partially not allowing the proper flow. If you have the standard regulator on it you can replace it with 1/2″ LP Gas Regulator or a 3/4″ LP Gas Regulator.

  66. Andy September 6, 2011 at 3:45 pm #

    I have a MagiKitchn lp fryer that is used at outdoor festivals and everytime its used it produces black soot out of the flue and now you can see flames coming out of the flue. I took the burners out and blew them out and hosed out the burner tubes and flue and that helped for a short amount of time. Is there an adjustment for something else that needs to be done to correct the problem.

    • Tundra September 7, 2011 at 9:36 am #

      Hey Andy,

      Sorry for the delay I was off for a couple of days.

      Has this been this way since you have had it? Was it always LP or was it converted?

      The reason I ask is because the wrong orifices may have been put in it. If the orifice is to large it will allow to much gas to flow through causing a yellow flame which causes the sooting problem.

      Let me know what the model and serial number are and the altitude you are at and I can check to see what size orifice is needed for the unit.

  67. Bob September 9, 2011 at 11:43 am #

    Hi. I have a Pitco 14DIS drop in fryer. The piolt wont stay lit at all. I have already changed the tjermopile, Safety valve and the pilot( because we broke the head off). I have also jumped out the Hi-limit and it still wont go on. Any ideas?
    Thanks

    • Tundra September 14, 2011 at 4:05 am #

      Hi Bob,

      Check the wiring. All it takes is one wire to be in the wrong place to cause a problem like this.

  68. Tom September 15, 2011 at 7:48 pm #

    i have cecilware fms40, the pilot is lit, when i turn on the thermostat . the pilot still will not stay lit, i try connect hi-limit one wire with the other wire, same problem. Thanks a lot.

  69. Don H September 25, 2011 at 1:41 pm #

    Hi, I have a similar problem as Bob with my US Range LPG Fryer. I have replaced all four components, but the pilot still goes out as soon as the thermostat is turned on. Is there a wiring diagram available?

    Thanks, Don

    • Tundra September 26, 2011 at 4:08 am #

      Hey Don,
      If you can provide me with the model number I probably can get you a diagram.

  70. Manny September 27, 2011 at 12:06 pm #

    Hi
    I just purchase a used Imperial SF40 fryer. The Pilot knob is stuck in Pilot and does not turn in any way. Is there a way to clean this or fix it? or my only solution is to buy a new combination valve?
    Thanks for all your help
    Manny

    • Tundra September 28, 2011 at 10:07 am #

      Hey Manny,

      Unfortunately there is no way to repair it. So you are right your only solution is to replace it. If it is natural gas click here and if it is LP click here.
      If you would like to order it you can do that at etundra.com or call me at 800-447-4941 x7104.

  71. nedal October 11, 2011 at 8:10 pm #

    i have a petco brand 2 decks electronic w/gas deep fryer, the right side is not working. I just need an estimet.

  72. andrea reyes October 13, 2011 at 8:19 am #

    hi .i have frankford fryer that wouldn’t turn on, the pilot is on ..but it still would start up

    • Tundra October 14, 2011 at 4:34 am #

      Hi Andrea,
      It could either be the combination safety valve or the thermostat. If it is a millivolt system to check the thermostat remove the wires from it and touch them together. If the burner fires then you know it is the thermostat that is bad. If it does not fire then it is more than likely the combination safety valve that is bad.

  73. Jorge October 14, 2011 at 2:49 am #

    Pleasse…I from Peru, I need a good gas control valve..But I need some one who help me for to choose one ..
    I need a valve with spark plug, burn indicator and pilot….Those valves are for fryers…..Please help me

    • Tundra October 14, 2011 at 4:34 am #

      Hi Jorge,
      If you can provide me with the brand name, model and serial number I may be able to help with your needs.

  74. Peter October 20, 2011 at 5:14 pm #

    My fryer model is moffat.
    Half year ago the fryer does not work,I change a thermostat and it works.
    Now, pilot works well and thermostat some times works, some times not, for example, if temperature is setup 360F, after cooling down, the fryer fails to heat again some times.And there is a little oil leak from valve( I guess).
    I do not know thermostat can be wrong again just half year? Or it related with the oil leak?

    Thanks Peter

    • Tundra October 21, 2011 at 7:01 am #

      Hey Peter,

      It sounds like your thermostat has in fact failed you again.

  75. chris October 22, 2011 at 12:23 pm #

    hi i have a 4 burnner pitco fryer,, its worked on propane gas,,, i have 3/4 inch gas piped in to it,,,,, my problem is when i put on gas main flame for first 4-5 seconds i have a great blue flame after this it looks like it drops power and the flame turns to an orange clour,,, hence the recovery on the oil is not as quick this way,,, and can have an effect on the quailty of the food,,, can you help…..

    • Tundra October 24, 2011 at 9:54 am #

      Hey Chris,

      Sounds as though the pressure regulator is defective. Like it is slowly closing after the burners are lit.
      Try adjusting it. Just take the cap off of it and back out the screw a little bit to see if the flame will increase.

  76. Rich October 31, 2011 at 11:50 am #

    Hey, Thanks for all your help but I have one more question. I have noticed a shuttering sound when my Comm, LP gas fryer comes on and noticed flame just above the orifice at the burner air intake on two of the three burners. I have cleaned the burners and the baffels and my orifice’s are clean the only thing left is the gas valve. I have a nanometer on the gas manafold going to the burners that was reading 7.0 I re-adjusted the gas valve down to 4.0 and the shuttering stopped. what should the inches of water column be on the manafold comming out of the gas valve? have we fixed it?
    THANKS
    Rich

    • Tundra November 2, 2011 at 7:38 am #

      Hi Rich,

      The water column should be set between 8 to 10 inches.

  77. yani November 4, 2011 at 12:15 pm #

    i have Pitco commercial fryer. that is not working so well. i had change the thermopile, but still not fixed the problem………. i started everything fine, it get light up and gas is burning, oil got warmer. but 5 or 10 mins later it shut off everything. and some lucky days it works for whole day, without automatic shut off. do you have any ideas with this situation

  78. brian November 6, 2011 at 8:05 am #

    deep fryer pilot coming on then when u turn too turn on the pilot goes off

  79. marc November 9, 2011 at 1:16 pm #

    I have a pitco 14rs. It has been sitting dormant for 2 years in my kitchen.

    The pilot will light, but as soon as you stop holding the pilot in the flame goes out. We bought a new thermopile 2 years ago, no luck… I am stumped as what it could be. I took the wires out to bypass the high safety switch, no luck. I can’t tell if the pilot knob is stuck by grease in the gas valve.

  80. Iggy November 11, 2011 at 10:51 am #

    Just replaced the thermostat for my IMPERIAL IFS-40 deep fryer. The pilot light will stay lit but soon as
    I turn the thermostat to turn it on, the pilot light goes out. Would I now have to replace the Hi limit or the thermopile???? Please advise… thank u in advance

    • Tundra November 11, 2011 at 1:23 pm #

      Hi Iggy,

      Usually when this happens the unit is wired wrong. If you look on the side of the gas valve there is a wiring diagram that will show you where the wires are supposed to attach. There should also be one on the door. If you do not have either let me know and I can fax or email you one.

  81. rob mcfall November 15, 2011 at 2:41 am #

    working on an older model hobart milivolt system (nat gas) …after the pilot lights, i imediately let go of the button and it stays lit. it’s barely getting flame to the pilot… but yet it stays lit. after moving to the on position and turn on the t-stat…nothing happens ????

  82. doug November 16, 2011 at 8:14 pm #

    I have a dean deep fryer I change the themo and test the hi limit but still can’t get the poilt to light

  83. Rachel November 17, 2011 at 7:32 am #

    I have an American Range AF45 and need some help to fix it. The biggest problem I have is that I’m not exactly sure what the problem is. So, here is what is giong on. The pilot turns on but the wiring from the thermostat gas knob fell off and I need help rewiring it. Anything you can do to help? Thank YOu

    Sincerely,
    Mobile food truck in desperate need

  84. Rachel November 17, 2011 at 7:36 am #

    I need a wiring diagram for an American Range AF45…

  85. Luke November 20, 2011 at 9:59 pm #

    Hi there,
    We have a bank of four pitco electric fryers, i think the model number is e14bs (fe14bs-couvy) but it is very hard to make out due to the age of it. on one of them the probes tend to fail (the last one only lasted 3months and is barely used), it says prob on the screen, but will sometimes start up fine then say prob. One of our other fryers seems to boil (we use shortening) although temp is only 189 degrees celsius. The other two work like a charm. I have a few spare probes but at 180 each the costs start adding up, i also have two replacement hi limits. I would just like to know if there is a way to test the hi limits and find out what causes the temp probes to fail, and also why the other one ‘boils ‘. Also if you know where i can find user, service and parts manuals for this fryer. Thanks!

    • Tundra November 21, 2011 at 10:54 am #

      Hey Luke,
      It sounds to me like you have multiple issues. You may not have a probe problem but a control board issue for both the probes going out and the boiling problem.
      My suggestion is to call Pitco Tech Support and go over these issues with them. Have your model and serial number ready when you do because they will not talk to you with out them. Call them at 603-225-6684 and ask for Tech Support.

  86. luke p November 23, 2011 at 12:57 am #

    G’day

    we have AD series frymaster and work fine but sometimes in the middle of service it will drop temp and take for ever to get back up to speed, burner still goes but want heat up quick

    • Tundra November 30, 2011 at 5:33 am #

      Hi Luke,
      Is the burner still burning at the same velocity as when you first started it? If it has dropped it may be that the combination safety is not opening all the way. This could be caused by the thermopile not putting out enough millivolts. That is where I would start. Change it and see if this improves the operation. If it does not I would change the combo valve.

  87. Al C. November 24, 2011 at 4:05 pm #

    I have a Masterbuilt LP deep frier. It takes hours to heat ten quarts of oil to 350 degrees. Is there anything I can do?

  88. Bobby November 29, 2011 at 4:45 am #

    Have a Elite Imperal 40# propane gas fryer.. Ran out of propane the other day, got bottle filled, but now gas won’t come thriough to pilot when depressed to light.. Gave plenty of time to clear line but seems like no gas is being allowed through? Took off supply from fryer, getting gas through regulator at tank to the fryer?? Only a year old but could it be gas valve? Nothing in trouble shooting to deal with this other than turning on gas tank or deopressing pilot long enough which I have… Any help appriciated..

    • Tundra November 30, 2011 at 5:32 am #

      Hi Bobby,

      It could be that when you filled the tank that some debris got into the pilot orifice. Disconnect the gas tube from the bottom of the pilot and drop out the orifice and make sure the hole is not blocked. This sometimes happens because most gas line have some debris in them.

  89. Zack November 30, 2011 at 12:43 pm #

    Hi,
    I have an Avalon gas donut fryer that was working fine until one day I changed the oil and accidentally touched the sensor. Now when frying donuts at 400 degrees, every time I drop in the donuts the temps drops down to 350. So I would have to wait for the temp to go back up to 400 again in order to do another batch. If it’s one of the mention problem, where can I get the spare part. Thank you in advance

    • Tundra December 1, 2011 at 11:53 am #

      Hey Zack,
      Sounds as though the thermostat has become weak and is not coming back on when it has that 7-10 degree temp drop. I’m not sure what thermostat it uses. If you could take a look at it and maby get some numbers off of it we may be able to get what you need.

  90. larry d. veal December 6, 2011 at 2:53 pm #

    I HAVE A GF 8 CECIL WARE DEEP FAT FRYER AND THE PILOT WILL LIGHT BURNER WILL COME ON BUT WHEN IT GETS TO AROUNF 350 DEGREE IT CUTS BURNER AND PILOT OFF RT BEFORE REACHING TEMP WHAT IS THE PROBLEM HI LIMIT OR T STAT, THKS LARRY

    • Tundra December 7, 2011 at 5:38 am #

      Hey Larry,
      Does that unit have an auto reset or manual reset hi limit? It does sound as though the hi limit is tripping out. That is the only thing that would shut down both the burner and pilot at the same time.
      You can test the hi limit by connecting the hi limit wires together (by passing the hi limit) if the burner continues to burn then it is defective.

    • Tundra December 7, 2011 at 7:25 am #

      Larry,
      Just a reminder do not leave the hi limit by passed. With out that the oil could over heat and catch fire.

  91. Michae Fresco December 15, 2011 at 7:41 am #

    Hi: I have a gas fryer Pitco 40C SS. I replaced the limit switch and the thermostat. Two months ago i replaced the thermopile The pilot light will stay on but the burners will not ignite. What do you think the problem is?

    • Tundra December 16, 2011 at 6:33 am #

      Hi Michae,
      Could be either the thermostat again or the combination safety valve. If you remove one of the wires from the thermostat and touch it to the other wire on the thermostat and the burners fire then you know it is the thermostat. If it still does not fire then the combination safety is going to be the issue.

  92. Aimee December 26, 2011 at 6:42 pm #

    Hi!

    Was just googling around to see what’s wrong w my fryer. I’m not too sure what make it is but when I hold the pilot the gas flows and it lights up, however when I realise the pilot, the gas cuts off and it won’t light otherwise. What do you reckon is the problem? Also, I hope you’ve had a wonderful christmas!

  93. Faz shaffique December 29, 2011 at 1:00 pm #

    Hi I have a cifs40 gas imperial fryer
    Everytime the flames kick in . There s alot of smoke
    And flames that shoot out of the back of the fryer where the
    Fumes are released . Pls tell me what the remedy is .

  94. Joseph P January 4, 2012 at 11:06 pm #

    I have an Avalon fryer mod# EADF24G the on/off switch blew a while back so I replaced with a like switch, since then the pilot would go out, so I replaced the thermopile and now at times goes out then works fine. I checked the hi-limit with a continuity meter and it read good. Any ideas?

    • Tundra January 5, 2012 at 7:30 am #

      Hi Joseph,
      Sounds like the thermopile is not staying hot enough. Make sure it is as far into the flame of the pilot as possible. Also check to see if the pilot flame drops down when the burners kick on. If it does try adjusting the flame a little higher. If it still reacts the same way I would recommend replacing the regulator it may not be letting the proper amount of gas through. That is the least expensive way to start. If it continues you may have to replace the combination safety valve

  95. Donna January 6, 2012 at 11:07 am #

    Hello,

    I’ve just leased a furnished restaurant and am having a problem with my Pitco single well, double basket fryer. It works OK, but has a very loud high pitched whine that is driving us all crazy. We’ve had the gas company check the gas flow and it’s fine. It whines no matter the temperature setting, usage or kitchen temperature. We think it may be haunted :). Any help would be appreciated.

  96. Brad Cagle January 8, 2012 at 11:35 am #

    I have a Dean fryer that is giving me fits, after bring the oil temp to 400 degrees when I drop in a bag of fries the oil temp drops to low to properly cook the fries. The fryer always comes up to temp, flame looks good, oil temp matchs control setting, but this problem continues to happen. This fryer used to work right but now it doesn”t. What should I be looking for?

  97. David Brown January 28, 2012 at 8:47 am #

    We recently installed the 3rd deep fryer at the local Kiwanis club. In the process we went to new quick coupling hoses and a minifoe system for the deep fryers. The system operates on LP and up till this time – operated smoothly. The fryers ignite smooth and burn steady however, after they start the reheat cycle (usually takes about 10 or 20 minutes) we are getting allot of flames on the back side of the burners. I have changed out all the LP regulators, and replaced all the vent tubing from the cooker all the way to the top of each chimney. On the manifoe I used 1/2″ black iron from regulator to the manifoe. Each deep fryer operates at 35,000 BTU. The flex hoses are standard LP/NG hoses for with an internal ID of 1/4 inch. Why would these things work perfectly on the initial light but, blow flames back on re-ignition to keep the oil hot?

  98. tara davis January 29, 2012 at 3:24 pm #

    Imperial Nat gas fryer replaced thermopile last June as you suggested now all of a sudden pilot stays lit but when knob is turned to 350 degrees it won’t ignite and burners don’t come on. Help!!!

  99. rosey January 29, 2012 at 8:58 pm #

    I have tristar fryer
    Pilot light is not working n can see not even gas supply
    Any help is appreciated

  100. Larry February 3, 2012 at 10:28 am #

    Hi,

    I have a pitco fryer that the pilot remians lit and gas ingites and heats up after a short while the everything shuts off. I replaced the thermostat and the problem is the same. Could it be the high limit?

  101. Shawn February 3, 2012 at 3:36 pm #

    Hi,

    I have a Pitco sg14-s, earlier today the frialator began to bubble and pop (much as it would when first heating up new oil). Since the oil had been changed earlier today I figured it might have not been heated up yet and thought nothing of it. It did this periodically for about 5 minutes. A few minutes later the oil went from calm and normal to a full boil in a matter of seconds. I immediately turned off the burner and backed away however 30 seconds to a minute later the oil was no calmer I went back in and cut the pilot light and the oil began to settle within 15 seconds. It has been off (no pilot) for the past 4 hours and upon reinspecting it I noticed that the oil went from almost max to below minimum.

    My theory is that last night during the cleaning they didn’t let it cool properly before beginning, they heat shocked it and caused a crack. However that wouldn’t explain the boiling unless the crack was in the heating tube and caused a direct heat to the oil as well as potentially a grease fire in the tube(which would also explain the continuous boil despite the burner being off).

    we are currently testing with water to see if we can spot the leak (I drained the oil to prevent a mess , plus water should slip through a crack more easily and be more noticeable when leaking) but I was wondering if you had any other ideas on what the problem might be.

    Also, if this turns out to be the problem is there any way to replace the heating tube or would we simply need to purchase a new frialator?

    • Tundra February 7, 2012 at 8:23 am #

      Hey Shawn,

      My first question is when they cleaned the fryer did they use water to clean it? Second if they did was all of the water out of it before it was filled with oil? I have seen this happen when there is water in the oil. The oil will bubble and pop if water is present. It probably went to full boil because water will boil faster than oil and it continued after you shut it off because it takes time for the water to cool.

      This is only a guess on my part. I have seen the oil in a fryer explode when there is water in it. If this happened you are very fortunate that it did not erupt out of the fryer like a volcano.

      Let me know what you find out.

  102. Abdul February 4, 2012 at 9:23 pm #

    Hi,

    I have a Royal Fryer and the problem is that it just turns off, it is lit and gas ignites.
    if you could please have a look or give us instructions on how to fix it, we would really appreciate it. Our business depends on that fryer.

    • Tundra February 7, 2012 at 8:37 am #

      Hey Abdul,

      When the unit shuts off does the pilot go out also?

  103. Jack February 5, 2012 at 11:55 am #

    We have a problem with our Entree fryer (brand name) not turning off when the dial is turned to off. This has happened 2-3 times over the last 6-8 months. If it doesn’t self-correct, we turn off the gas. The next day it would work fine. Any ideas?

    • Tundra February 7, 2012 at 8:38 am #

      Hi Jack,

      Not knowing what controls an Entrée fryer has I will assume it is a millivolt system. If this is correct it may be that the combination safety is just slightly sticking open every now and then. The next time it happens try taping on the side of the combo valve and see if it stops. If it does then you should change the combo valve.

  104. Rich February 13, 2012 at 9:34 am #

    i have a commercial fryer – 2 bay – it has a filtration pump that does not work – can you offer any troubleshooting help ?
    Thank You
    Rich

  105. Stephen February 13, 2012 at 12:50 pm #

    Hello,

    Great site here ! I tinker a bit with my equipment just enought to get me in trouble ! lol

    Got a Pitco SG 14 been running fine 2 years . THe other night it began blowing back flames from tubes up the front vents? burning a spot on flat front of fryer. Tried geting into tube/burner area and blowing out jets with air. same deal, thinking some carbon built up. Problem is it is the first tube right behind the combo valve and can’t get at it to make sure nothing is blocking the flow of gas. Any thoughts or does it sound like I need to take off whole valve. But once off how will I know if it is a jet or just clogged jets.

  106. Won February 15, 2012 at 4:22 pm #

    Hello,

    I appreciate you sharing your expertise with the community and would like your input on a problem I have. I have a pretty old Deep Fryer and do not know the model number. The name plate is worn away and I would estimate that the unit is at least 15 to 20 years old. The pilot will not light at ALL. I push the button, but don’t hear any gas flow. Any idea on what the cause may be? How should I go about troubleshooting? Thank you.

    Won

  107. tonny L February 27, 2012 at 11:20 am #

    hi i have a pitco frialator 35c the pilot goes out when release the button i change the thermopile already. how can i check if it the high limit or the safety valve thank you

    • Tundra February 28, 2012 at 12:13 pm #

      Hey Tonny,

      Sounds like the hi limit is open. Just take one wire off of it and attach it with the other wire. Then try to light the pilot. If it stays on then you will need to replace the hi limit. If it does not then the combination safety valve is probably bad.

      If you need either of them we have them in stock. We would need the model of the fryer to get you the right parts because Pitco use two different controls in the units.

  108. Jose March 6, 2012 at 7:16 pm #

    I have a pitco and it lites and burners but when it reaches temp it shuts off pilot and all. What do you think?

  109. Jorgen March 6, 2012 at 8:04 pm #

    Garland fryer …flames on1 burner shoots straight up to front vents not into tubes and causes smoke and burned out thermostat . Tried to clean ….but no luck….what kind of adjustment do you suggest….HELP/

  110. Stevie March 13, 2012 at 4:49 am #

    I have a large deep fryer that does not have a thermostat. I would like to install one to help regulate the temperature. Do you have any tips on how to do this? Where do I get the parts I need?

    • Tundra March 14, 2012 at 5:44 am #

      Hi Stevie,

      I need some more information to be able to help you.
      Brand name of the fryer, a model number and serial number if possible.
      With that information I will be able to find the proper part for you.

  111. Stevie March 14, 2012 at 6:34 am #

    As I stated before, this fryer is not one that has a thermostat. It is a King Kooker 30-Inch Dual-Burner (KKDFF30T) Outdoor Propane Frying Cart. It has LP hoses and regulator (type-1 connector).

    We have turkey barns, which have propane stoves. They are thermostat regulated. Would it be the same concept?

  112. Chris Bivens March 22, 2012 at 7:51 am #

    Hello I have a Keating nat gas deep fryer worked good then now when it calls for the burner tubes you hear a click and the pilot goes out. Any help on this? Thanks

  113. sammy April 1, 2012 at 9:43 am #

    Hey
    i have a pitco gas 40 lbs. I can light the pilot and ignite the flames. But after about 5 minutes everything just shuts off..any suggestions?? thanks.

  114. CoryWilczewski April 13, 2012 at 6:09 am #

    hi
    Im opening a food truck and i just got everything in a run, propane was just run my self, witch is ran from a 30lb tank through a regulator then pipped in to the equipment, i have a table top double burner that works just fine so i know the gas lines i ran work, but i have 2 deep fryers, one is 70lb fryer and a 40lb fryer which i cannot light, the pilots wont light and wen i turn the thermostat valve on bother the fryers just to see if i hear the gas coming out and i hear nothing, so my question is do my commercial deep fryers have built in regulators? and if so is the problem that im running 2 regulators? if not then any idea why im not getting gas to them? its extremely frustrating i keep running into problems with my truck. can you please help me out?

    • Tundra April 13, 2012 at 10:48 am #

      Hey Cory,

      Were the fryers set up for LP (propane) when they were installed in the truck?

  115. Cory Wilczewski April 13, 2012 at 11:29 am #

    yes i bought LP fryers i can give you the make and model if you need them?

  116. Richard April 17, 2012 at 10:17 am #

    Hey

    I have a older Cecilware double basket gas fryer and it works good if i keep it under 325 but as soon as i put the temperature any higher it will go that temp but when the main burners turn off the pilot light goes out as well. under that temperature the pilot stays lit not sure what to do thanks for any help

    • Tundra April 18, 2012 at 4:40 am #

      Hey Richard,
      Sounds as though the hi limit is tripping out. It could be weak from age. Not knowing the model of the unit does it have a red reset button and do you have to reset it to be able to light the pilot again?

  117. ken April 29, 2012 at 8:24 am #

    i have two dcs gas fryers both are working good alone but one blows the other out when i try to use both at the same time

  118. Gregorio April 29, 2012 at 2:28 pm #

    I have ifs-40, IS it normal that stared to leak oil after 6 months?

  119. Bob Feldick April 30, 2012 at 5:05 pm #

    Hi,
    I just replaced a gas valve on a fryer because the old one leaked gas around the on/off /pilot knob and would occasionally flame up just a little. Now, when the burner ignites, there is a constant surge of gas to full power and then almost off at about one second intervals. I tried a different propane bottle and purchased a new regulator. I think the burner is rated at about 111,000 btu. The new regulator is rated at 200,000 btu. What might be wrong?

  120. Randy May 22, 2012 at 9:45 am #

    Hi, I have a pitco 40c+ss (LP). I’m having trouble starting it up. I’m able to light the pilot. While its on the pilot position the flame is strong, but then on the On position it dwindles but stays on, Is that normal…. 2nd quest: While on the ON position I turn the temp knob and nothing happens. Can u Please help.. Randy

  121. Ed May 23, 2012 at 9:43 am #

    I have a American Range AF45 Deep fryer. I am unable to turn the Pilot knob. It’s in the off position and it won’t move. I tried depressing the knob and turning it, I tried pulling the knob out and turning it, neither worked. I even removed the knob and put a pair of vise grips on it to turn it and that didn’t work either. I tried turning it clockwise and counter clockwise. What am I missing?

  122. Ryan Jacobson May 26, 2012 at 11:25 am #

    I have a sir lawrence fryer… pilot stays lit, burner kicks on but then a noise like old radiator and blows all flame out. Read your above suggestions but do not see a similar problem.

  123. Peter June 4, 2012 at 4:19 pm #

    Hey

    we just purchased a Commercial Garland Deep Fryer and we installed all the propane Lines good..We tried to Ignite the Pilot Light But we aint getting Propane to it at all..I have checked all connections and everything looks good..Just not getting Propane to the Pilot..Would you know what can be wrong with this Deep Fryer..

    • Tundra June 7, 2012 at 4:17 am #

      Hey Peter,
      When you got the fryer was it set up for propane or natural gas? If it was natural and you put propane to the combination safety valve the pressure more than likely blew out the inside of the valve.
      If it is already set up for propane then it could be that the combo valve is defective.

      Was this purchased new?

  124. Holly June 16, 2012 at 5:34 pm #

    I have a pitco double natural gas deep fryer that seems to have a problem. When I tried to turn on the fryer the ignite won’t lit, I don’t know if it is the thermostat or the thermopile causing problem. This is my first time operating the deep fryer and so I am really clueless of what is going on. Can you please help. Am really appreciate you taking the time help the community.

    Holly

    • Tundra July 17, 2012 at 12:13 pm #

      Hi Holly,
      If you are trying to light the pilot and when you release the button the flame goes out it sounds as though the thermopile is bad.

  125. damian June 26, 2012 at 10:29 am #

    hi,

    I have problems with my fryers they are around 8-10 years ..pitco they light up but after 10 or 20 min they go off piliot goes off too.
    I used propane since they get use on the road a lot I use the regulators that are adjustables.
    what regulators do you recommend.
    thanks for any feed back..

  126. Michael July 3, 2012 at 7:58 am #

    Hi
    I just bought two deep fat counter top fryers on an online auction. When I went to pick them up they didn’t have any way to tell what make they are so that I can change them from Natural gas to LP. I took out an orfice and it didn’t have any numbers on it. It is a five burner commercial fryer with a rodger shaw control valve and hold three small baskets. Can you please help?

  127. david July 15, 2012 at 3:38 pm #

    I have an AF fryer. deep cleaned. Pilot started, does the fryer have to have oil in it and on sensors to fire up the burners ? When I switch the thermostat dial on no gas goes to burners.

    Thxs

    • Tundra July 17, 2012 at 12:11 pm #

      Hi David,
      Sounds as though you may have one of two problems. Either the thermostat or the combination safety are defective. The easiest way to find out is to jump out the thermostat. If it fires then you know it is the thermostat that is bad. If it does not then the combo valve is bad.
      It does not need oil in it to fire.

  128. Jim Staub July 16, 2012 at 7:12 am #

    Hi,

    I have a older Pitco fryer that has no hi limit switch. The problem is the fryer does not shut off at the temp that is set on the thermostat. Would you replace the thermostat and sensor going into the tank?
    Thank you,
    Jim

    • Tundra July 17, 2012 at 12:12 pm #

      Hi Jim,
      Yes you should replace the thermostat asap because if the oil reaches 400 degrees or more it will explode into flames. Oil fires are the worst! If there is a plug in the side of the tank where you can put a hi limit I would advise you do that also.
      I do not know which thermostat you have but you can find it on etundra.com

  129. Snappy dawg July 17, 2012 at 7:53 am #

    Have a propane fryer what can I clean the burners with ??
    The propane doesnt flow evenly . Plzz help Janet

    • Tundra July 17, 2012 at 12:11 pm #

      Hi Janet,
      The burner holes probably have rust in them. My suggestion is to find a drill bit just the size of the holes and run the bit through all the holes. Once you have done that make sure you empty the junk out of the burner.

  130. Tammy July 19, 2012 at 6:30 am #

    Hi,

    I have a commercial fryer and after cleaning it this morning. I turned it back on to use this afternoon and it came to a rolling boil and the gauge was only at 350. I turned it off quickly…this is the temperature we normally use for cooking and we cleaned it the way we have for two years and this time it is acting up. Once it was shut off…it slowed slightly and then went back to a rolling boil…it has since stop…I don’t know what to do…what could it be?

    • Tundra July 20, 2012 at 10:59 am #

      Hi Tammy,
      Quick thinking on your part. That could have caused a verry bad fire.
      Sounds as though the thermostat and the hi limit have both failed. The thermostat is runnin wild causing the oil to over heat. The hi limit that which is the safety for just a case as this failed to shut the unit down.
      You will need to replace both.
      If you need help you can call Tundra at 800-447-4941 and any of the sales people can help you get the correct parts you need. Be sure to have the brand name and the model and serial number when you call.

  131. Russ August 4, 2012 at 1:56 pm #

    Hello,

    I have a lightly used Dean Decatholon series fryer. The problem is that the fryer will fire up fine and reach a temp of around 200 degrees and then shutdown. The pilot will stay lit and when I press the hi limit reset switch it will fire up immediately and then repeats with another shutdown. Any ideas?

    Thanks,

  132. plumbing fitting August 19, 2012 at 9:11 am #

    The jaws of a pipe wrench are usually tightened to a particular width with a pair of knurled thumb nuts that ride on a threaded shaft. When the wrench is opened to the desired distance, the thumb nuts are tightened.

  133. David Cloutier August 28, 2012 at 6:57 am #

    I have a customer that had a thermocouple snapped off inside of the fryer last week. It was the result of one of my service technicians working inside of the fryer to clean it. I felt obligated to have it repaired so I authorized them to have their service company replace the broken thermocouple. The bill just came in and it was for $445.75 and I am thinking that someone is way out of bounds for charging that much to replace a thermocouple. What would you think? it that an extreme charge for a thermocouple? When I balked at the charge they said the service charge was roughly $200 and the parts were over $200. REALLY $200 for a thermocouple???

    I don’t want to be throwing a fit over this charge if it seems reasonable but that is almost half of what I can find a used fryer for.

    • Tundra August 31, 2012 at 8:37 am #

      David,
      There are two sensing bulbs in the tank, one is for the thermostat and the other is for the hi limit safety. If either of those were broken then either the thermostat or the hi limit would have had to be replaced because the thermocouple that is attached to them is not a replaceable part. So that may be why his bill was so high.
      A thermostat can run as much as $250.00 and a hi limit can run as much as $175.00.

  134. Jon August 30, 2012 at 4:04 am #

    I have a FRYMASTER FRYER MODEL MJCFSD – It turns on and shoots out a flame and then works fine for a time, then all of a sudden it acts like it doesnt want to get hot enough to fry stuff — HELP!
    Jonathan

    • Tundra August 31, 2012 at 8:41 am #

      Jon, I will need more information to determine the underlying issue. Can you get me a serial number and a more in depth description of the issue?

  135. rick judy September 4, 2012 at 11:28 am #

    i have an imperial f40. i replaced the thermostat and the thermopile.my burner will still not fire.pilot stays light all the time.will these things light with no oil in fryer?and do you think its the valvue or high limit? thanks rick

    • Tundra September 5, 2012 at 4:44 am #

      Sounds as though the combination safety valve is bad. It has two little solenoids in it, one for the pilot and one for the main gas to flow through. Sounds like the pilot one is working but the main one is not opening. You will have to replace the combination safety. Tundra does stock that as a part #41-425 at a cost of $175.57.

  136. Jacob September 4, 2012 at 11:04 pm #

    I have a Magikitchn MK42 deep fryer that has major sooting problems. It also shoots flames out the exhaust every time it kicks in. The soot builds up so badly that I have to take the burners out once a week and scrape out the shafts and vacuum them clean. It’s getting to be a bit of a burden to do every Sunday on my only day off. So, at first I thought it was the valve unit and had that examined. It would only do a maximum WC of 6″ so I had that professionally changed and set at around 10″. The flame was still burning orange so they tech dropped the bar with all the orifices on it as far down as it would go and that temporarily helped. The gas/air flow ratio seemed better and the sooting slowed down. But now it’s as bad as ever and I can’t lower that bar any further. So the only other thing I’m left to wonder about is if the orifices are too big and are letting too much gas out. I know the regulator on the line is good and I know I’m getting 10″ WC, but the soot and flame is still out of control. Do you know what orifice size this fryer should need? It is placed in a food truck in a city at 26 ft altitude. Thank you, Jacob

    • Tundra September 5, 2012 at 1:40 pm #

      Hey Jacob,
      It sounds as though there may be a blockage in the flue. If there is it would have the symptoms you describe. With a blockage the air flow would be restricted causing the soot problem. With a restriction it would also cause a gas build up in the tubes so when it fires it ignites the gas in the tubes causing it to shoot flames out the top of the flue.
      Hope this helps.

  137. ron evans September 18, 2012 at 8:54 am #

    I have a Gold Medal 5099 fryer it comes up to temp then shuts off pilot light and all. What do you think it could be?

    • Tundra September 20, 2012 at 6:55 am #

      On your Gold Medal it could be one of two problems. The thermostat may be running wild causing the hi limit to trip out. I am not sure if there is a combination safety in that unit because I can not find a break down on it. If there is it could be that it is defective. If the coils in side of it are weak then it could cause the problem. If you have to wait to relight the pilot then I would say the thermostat is bad.

  138. Jessica September 18, 2012 at 1:46 pm #

    Hello,

    I am a server at an airport restaurant and I work in a very tiny kitchen with a deep fryer that’s making sounds that are very loud banging noises like a car backfiring. The cooks say this has been happening for well over a year off and on. A repair person came to repair it and said it was some sort of relay problem causing gas to build up inside and then it would suddenly release all the gas at the same time making the loud sound. They assure me that it’s not a safety issue, but when I asked the repair person what would happen if to much gas got built up inside because of this relay delay issue his eyes got really big and he said then you would have a problem. After assuring me his repair had fixed it and it wouldn’t happen anymore, the very next day it was backfiring five times in a row.

    So, the question is have you ever heard of this before and does it sound like something to be concerned about leaving on in this condition? Sorry I am don’t have more technical information.

    Thanks for any help!

    Jessica

    • Tundra September 20, 2012 at 6:56 am #

      Hey Jessica,
      That does not even sound right to me. It sounds to me like the main gas valve my be leaking by and building up gas in the burner tubes or there may be a blockage in the flue causing a gas build up. Check the flue and make sure it is clear. Either way it is not safe! If it is the gas valve leaking by it can only get worse. I would have another service company check the fryer.

  139. Martha September 19, 2012 at 4:22 pm #

    Hi,
    Great website! You helped me replace my fryer parts today, but I am still having a problem. I have an imperial fryer (unsure of model number as it is rubbed off and illegible) 3 burner tube style that runs on natural gas. Today I replaced the thermostat and the high limit which both came with new thermopiles. Before replacing, fryer flames would not shut off automatically and then a few days later, pilot would not light at all. After replacing said parts, the pilot comes on and stays on, the fryer burners ignite, but it still will not turn off when the appropriate temperature is reached. What do I do next? Thank you in advance!

    Martha

    • Tundra September 20, 2012 at 6:57 am #

      Hi Martha,
      Sounds like it could be wired wrong or you received a defective thermostat. Is this just a single pot fryer? What type of combination safety is in it? I mean is it a Robertshaw, Honeywell or White Rogers. Which ever one it is would determine how it is wired. Tundra can provide a wiring diagram for which ever valve you have even with out a model number.

  140. Ctpiper September 22, 2012 at 11:39 am #

    I have this fryer counter top commercial don’t know make tag burned off . Had this problem when burner would shut off would back fire and blow pilot out.mi changed tstat, hi limit and gas valve and cleaned burners. Now it back fires, blows one or no tube out( 4 tubes 2 burners can send pic ) then makes gurgling sound but stays running. Also turned up pilot flame so pilot now does not go out usually. Thanks for the help

    • Tundra September 24, 2012 at 9:14 am #

      Usually when a fryer has blow back (back fires) it is because there is a build up of gas in the burner tubes. This usually is caused by a blockage in the flue. So check to see if there is something blocking the flue.

  141. Martha September 24, 2012 at 11:25 am #

    It is a single pot fryer, with a Honeywell safety I believe. When I reconnected the wires, I went fire for wire, one part at a time. I’ve been told that I was shipped the wrong parts, but the part numbers that I ordered are the numbers that imperial gave me. 1175 and 1177. Are there other parts that go to the older fryer models? This one has to be at least 10 years old…

    • Tundra September 25, 2012 at 5:03 am #

      Hi Martha,
      You did indeed get the right parts. Because it will not shut off at the set temp it sounds as though you received a defective thermostat. Not to worry though that does happen on occasion unfortunately. You will have to replace it again.

  142. jim October 3, 2012 at 12:11 pm #

    i have a dcs frg324d donut fryer the temp will be all over the place but mostly it will not get hot enough it will heat to about 200-300 degrees and not go higher sometimes by turning it off and on it will fire up but sometimes it will sit for an hour or more at lo temp and then go up to set temp i tried to get a new thermostat but parts are no longer available is there another fryer i can get parts for and retrofit it it is in good shape it looks like a 1/4 stuff box for the fittings

    • Tundra October 3, 2012 at 12:54 pm #

      Hi Jim,
      There may be a couple of ways to approach this. If you can get the numbers off of the thermostat or take some pic’s of it I may be able to find you what you need. Also does it have a snuffing box that screws into the side of the tank? If it does you will have to measure it to see what size thread it is.

  143. Brenda October 5, 2012 at 6:03 am #

    my deep fryer keep having smoke and a little fire coming from the top, i tried vacum it out but it only help for a little while, how do you properly clean the top of the deep fryer?

    • Tundra October 5, 2012 at 7:29 am #

      Hi Brenda,
      Have you cleaned out the burner tubes and the flue? Sounds like you may have something in the flue. That is what usually causes flames and smoke. Check out that flue and give it a good cleaning. You can use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the junk. Also make sure there is no grease build up in it. If there is you can use a scraper to scrape it off and then suck it out with the vacuum.

  144. Miles October 5, 2012 at 10:09 am #

    I have a double pitco frialator. The pilot won’t light on either side. It seems odd that both safety valves should fail. Gas supply seems fine. Is there any way to test the safety valves before I get elbows deep in the the guts of this fryer?

    • Tundra October 5, 2012 at 12:51 pm #

      Hi Miles,
      Sounds as though it may be the thermopiles that may be bad. If you have a millivolt tester you can check them. They should have a 750 millivolt reading. To test them the ends of them need to be heated of course and then touch the other end with one lead and go to the capillary or ground with the other lead if it is a single screw in thermopile. If it is the two lead type follow the same instructions except touch the leads from your tester to the two wires from the thermopile. If they are bad you can get what you need from Tundra direct or at etundra.com Part #41274 for the screw in type or Part#41273 for the two lead type.
      Hope this helps!

  145. Miles October 9, 2012 at 12:08 pm #

    The pilots won’t light at all, not that they won’t stay lit. which is not what I would expect if the thermopiles were bad.

    I put the dial in the ‘Pilot’ position, press it down, apply flame, the pilot doesn’t light. One of the pilots has a tiny flame that can barely sustain itself and won’t heat the thermopile, the other doesn’t produce any flame at all.

    Could I hold the lighter on the thermopile until it was producing enough voltage to open the gas valve and then see if the main burners would light? Are there other ways to test it?

    Thanks,
    -Miles

    • Tundra October 9, 2012 at 1:06 pm #

      Hey Miles,
      You can use a small propane torch to heat the thermopile. Now that you say you do not get gas at one of the pilots and barely enough for a flame on the other makes me think there is a blockage some where. I would start with the regulator because there is a screen on the inlet side of it. If it is plugged that could be causing the problem.
      (Has there been any gas line work in your area recently?) Disconnect the regulator and hook up the gas line direct and see if that helps.
      If it does not then I would say you may have two bad safety valves.

  146. Luke Kornbluh October 10, 2012 at 3:39 am #

    Hi,

    I just read through several months of your comments to the various posters — thank you, you are providing great information for a product and an industry that doesn’t make equipment information readily available.

    I have run an old Imperial 35 for several years on propane in an outdoor setting. The rest. equipment guys around me don’t know much about propane, the propane guys don’t know anything about cooking equipment (they specialize in hi-pressure welding applications). I have learned that a 20lb tank is too small to allow for proper vaporization and that hi demand from the fryer will cause the tank to ice up and not deliver any gas. I have also learned that those standard single-body regulators sold for LP gas grills are not great and often slightly too high pressure for the fryer, sometimes the gas is delivered so quickly it blows the pilot right out.

    This year I purchased a new Vulcan LG500 Propane model. I set this up with a two-stage regulator and have been using a 100lb bulk tank. I have only used the fryer about 4 days this season and it worked flawlessly.

    Then a problem. I don’t believe it is the brand new fryer, but my propane supply. It was too difficult to tell if the tank was empty, but I believe there was still about 20-25 lbs of gas in the 100lb tank and the day before it ran great, frying 250lbs of hand-cut fries at a craft fair. The pilot lights and stays lit, when I turn the temp knob to 325 the pilot lowered, no burner ignition, and the “popping” of gas at the orifices, sometimes with a yellow flame appearing at the orifices. I swapped a 20lb tank for the 100lb tank, and it lit, but fired for only a couple of minutes and then shut off burners and pilot. A couple days later and with the 20lb tank the burners wouldn’t light at all, just the “popping”.

    I tried the 2-stage regular with my other fryer, works fine, ruling out regulator problem. My theory: the large tank won’t operate properly below a certain minimum fill, the small tank is just to small to work with this large-size fryer. Probably just need to get the large tank filled and all my problems are solved.

    So here is the second reason I’m writing: can you help me find the propane information and parts required to operate mobile equipment? For example, if I have a splitter, can I operate both fryers from the 100lb tank? How do you compare equipment gas requirements to tank vaporization/output? How do we convert btu/hr to pounds/gallons per hour? How can I know for sure what regulator to use and where can I get them? ‘

    Thanks, Luke in Vineland, NJ

    • Tundra October 10, 2012 at 9:47 am #

      Hi Luke,
      This chart should help you covert into what you need.
      You should be running at least a 3/4″ hose on both fryers. There should be no reason either a 30 lb. or 100 lb. bottle should not run both fryers. As you can see by the chart the ambient temperature has a lot to do with the pressure on either size bottle.
      If you are running a regulator at the tank you may not have to have one on each unit.
      I favor having a regulator on each unit it gives it more balance.
      If you are running a regulator like you find on a BBQ your not going to get what you need for the units.
      You should be running a commercial regulator. You can get them from Tundra Restaurant Supply (etundra.com) Part #+41-457.

  147. Miles October 10, 2012 at 6:25 pm #

    For the sake of posterity, the problem was that the gas jets for the pilots had become clogged with goo. Don’t know how it got down in there or why it didn’t burn off, but while checking for blockages I removed the pilot tubes to check for gas flow at the regulator, which there was and traced it back until I eventually found the clogged jets. Problem solved. Thanks for your help

    • Tundra October 11, 2012 at 5:37 am #

      Hey Miles,
      Happy you located your problem.
      If I can be of further service just yell.

  148. Danielle October 18, 2012 at 3:37 am #

    Hi, I’m working on a mk42 lp fryer , its a pitco. My customer says the fryer only goes down when they are busy, not when I am on site. The gas valve was previously not seating correctly so I changed that as well as the thermopile , my manifold press is 10.wc and my incoming pressure is 12″wc , my milivolt reading is great when I am there. My temperature is good and I do not have to reset the hi limit ,but the Burners and pilot drop out and can be re lit right away. I’m at a loss with this intermittent problem .

    • Tundra October 22, 2012 at 6:54 am #

      It may be that the pilot flame is dropping down to a low flame during use or the thermopile may not be far enough into the flame. Usually when the burners kick on the pilot flame will drop down a bit but if it drops to much it will not keep the thermopile hot enough to maintain the proper millivolts.
      If you find this to be the case just adjust the pilot up a little bit and see what happens.

  149. Cash November 5, 2012 at 2:45 pm #

    Hi,

    I have a dean sr 42 fryer that pilot will not light. I check high limit switch and thermopile both seem to be working fine. The fire dept came out and shut off gas because of a gas leak they thought. When we went to start fryer back up it would not light. I have a imperial range with same issue, burners will light but not oven pilot.

    • Tundra November 6, 2012 at 6:52 am #

      Hi Cash,
      You could have one of two problems. One, you may need to hold the button in longer to bleed out the air in the pilot tube.
      Two, because the gas had been shut off there may have been debris in the gas line that got into the pilot orifice and it is now blocked.
      If that is the case you will have to disconnect the pilot tube from the pilot and remove the orifice to clean it out on both of your units.

  150. Jorge November 6, 2012 at 5:51 am #

    Hello:
    I am from South America, in my town there is no this type of fryers; but I!l want make me someone. If you were so nice of show me the circuit and the model and brands of valves that you use.

    Thanks

    • Tundra November 6, 2012 at 7:58 am #

      Hi Jorge,
      Here is a wiring diagram for most common fryers.

      The parts you would need Depending on what gas type you have are:
      41-425 natural gas combination safety valve or:
      41426 propane gas combination safety valve
      42-524 Hi Limit
      42-515 Thermostat
      41-274 Thermopile
      41-362 Pilot Burner

      You can look at all of these parts on etundra.com

      Hope this helps!

      FRY009_18_1.jpg

  151. jeff November 20, 2012 at 3:35 pm #

    what lp regulator is needed on a imperial deep fryer 42-50 lbs

    • Tundra November 21, 2012 at 6:45 am #

      Hi Jeff,
      That would require a Tundra part # 41-457. In stock at a cost of $30.00. Hope this helps.

  152. Jacob November 25, 2012 at 6:05 pm #

    I wrote to you before on September 4. Thank you for the suggestion of the flue. I checked the flue and it is clear. I also vacuumed it all out to be sure. The flame and soot is worse than ever. The burner tubes now clog fully with soot in only 5 days of usage. And the flame sometimes swirls out the flue about two feet from the top. I’m almost to the point of chucking this thing out and buying a new fryer. But one last thing. When I was cleaning it today I took the time to take the orifices out and check them. The top of the orifice has 0625 stamped on it. So, I was trying to find some lp orifice charts online and none of them seem to think that this is the correct size. To recap, the unit is a MagiKitch’n MK42SM Fryer at 115,00 btu using LP gas. Can you confirm for me that the orifice size is incorrect or not? If so, do you know what size I need to get?

    Thank you again,
    Jacob

    • Tundra November 28, 2012 at 6:36 am #

      Hi Jacob,
      Sorry for the delay. I was doing some more research into your problem.
      The orifices that are in the fryer are 1/16″ which are rated at 115,000 btu which according to the manufacturer are the correct ones.
      Lowering the manifold may have caused you more problems. The way this works is the orifice is sized to the burner venture length. What happens is as the gas comes out of the orifice it creates a vacuum to suck in the proper amount of air for the gas air mixture.
      With the manifold lowered it may not be able to create the proper vacuum to get that mixture needed, so I would raise it back to it’s original position.
      Also talking with the manufacturer they said that unit needs to run a water column of no less than 11″. If you are at 10″ of water column they said you are not getting enough gas flow through the orifices to get the correct mixture or air to gas.
      If you set the water column at 11″ or above and it does not correct the problem you may have to increase the orifice size by 1/32″. You can do that by getting a 3/32″ drill bit and drilling them out. I recommend that you do the other things first and drill out the orifices as a last resort.
      By the way you may be able to save yourself some money on a service guy to adjust the water column. You may be able to rent a water column gauge from a local equipment rental place.
      If you are not sure how to use it let me know and I can walk you through it.

  153. Bob Federici January 31, 2013 at 12:03 pm #

    I have a American Range Fryer. Pilot is lit but when you turn on the fryer only one of the 3 burners light. Sometimes the other two will light but as soon as it reaches temp shuts down only one come back on when needed.
    Thanks Bob

    • Tundra February 1, 2013 at 9:10 am #

      Hey Bob,

      Sounds as though you may have a weak combination safety valve. It is opening but not quite fast enough to allow enough gas through to ignite all the burners at the same time. Then it sounds as though once the combo valve gets a little warm it is not opening enough to allow enough gas for the burners to reignite.

      Let me know the manufacture of the combo valve and I can help you locate one.

  154. Cindy Toovey February 5, 2013 at 1:41 pm #

    Alano Club of Courtenay purchased an new Imperial 40 lb fryer and it was installed in February 2012. Recently we sprung a leak in the basket coincidentally right above the pilot light area. We have been arguing with the company as it is under warrant but they refuse to budge and state we must have dry fired the system – which we definitely did not do! they even went as far as to say our commerical service company (who viewed the unit in person); were wrong. They will replace the basket but will not cover the labour. Can you advise if you have heard of anyone else having problems with a new system?
    Thanks

    • Tundra February 6, 2013 at 11:19 am #

      Hi Cindy,

      I have not heard of anyone having this problem.

      It sounds as though you may have a unit with a manufacturer defect. In the area where it is leaking it could be a defective weld. Is the service company that looked at it certified by Imperial to do their warranty work? If they are not find out who in your area is and have them evaluate the problem.

      Wish I could have been of more help.

  155. Taylor February 10, 2013 at 7:44 pm #

    Hi,
    I have an Imperial fryer that is acting very strange. Everything seems to work properly except when we are in a rush and the fryer is working hard, it starts making a high pitched whine that resinates throughout the restaurant. The strange thing is that the sound stops when we open the door of the fryer. Gas valve maybe? Or dirty orifice?

    Thanks

    • Tundra February 11, 2013 at 8:01 am #

      Hi Taylor,
      That is a strange one. Opening the door will not effect the gas valve. It may be that the orifices need cleaning. When you open the door it actually allows more air flow into the burner compartment so it could be a sign that there is an orifice problem. Look on the orifice and you should see a number on it. Take that number to your local hardware store and they will be able to cross it to the drill size of the hole in it. You may not even need a drill, you should be able to insert the bit into the hole with your fingers to clear any debris that may be in them.

      • Taylor February 16, 2013 at 7:02 pm #

        HI,

        Thanks for your response. The orifices are number 36. I picked up a number 36 drill bit from the hardware store the other day, but it is much larger than the orifice hole size. I assumed that the number on the orifice is wire size and that a drill bit of that size would be that same. Apparently, I was wrong. Is there a orifice to drill bit conversion chart somewhere that I could reference? (The hardware store people were clueless) Thanks,
        Taylor

        • Tundra February 18, 2013 at 9:34 am #

          Hey Taylor,
          The #36 orifice should be a .1065 drill size (which is considered wire size). Have you had this fryer long and are you running natural or propane gas.
          The #36 is a natural gas orifice and a #51 or 56 would be for propane.
          The larger the number the smaller the hole on an orifice.
          Imperial did use a #36 for natural and a #51 for propane from the factory.
          Hope this helps.

          • Taylor February 28, 2013 at 3:19 pm #

            Hi,
            Well I am perplexed. The orifices have #36 stamped right on them but the hole size is defiantly not that big. The are natural gas fryers that we bought used a few months ago. I did end up replacing the gas valve on the fryer in question; it was acting finicky there were times that it would not fire. While doing the replacement, I removed the four cast iron burners and cleaned all of the holes with the #36 drill bit. The bit fit the holes on the burners perfectly and I was able to remove quite a bit of debris. The fryer seems to be working properly now and is getting to temp. within a reasonable time. Still confused about the brass orifices though… I will have to look closer and see if the number on them is not 56 which would explain the smaller size. Then will have to have a talk with my equipment supplier and find out why he sold us LP fryers when we needed natural gas!

            Thanks again for your help.
            Taylor

          • Tundra Restaurant Supply March 4, 2013 at 2:13 pm #

            A #56 can be used for both Nat or LP. Keep in mind, some techs will drill an existing orifice.

  156. Jacob February 13, 2013 at 8:09 pm #

    Hi, i have a frymaster 24g long john silvers series fryer that is boggling me.It is working almost all day then will fail to auto relight ( electronic ignition). You have to turn off the gas valve , and reset and it buzzes and relights and then works for 12 to 36 hours then repeats. The gas valve is new, i believe the hi’limit is too.Could it be the proofer or sail switch in the blower box? or loose wire? COULD it be the igniter? It ignites every time the temp drops and then shuts off when the temp setting is reached, its just periodically failing to relight then it shuts down until you reset it.

    • Tundra February 14, 2013 at 8:38 am #

      Hi Jacob,
      It sounds as though you may have an air flow problem. When the burners are on check to see if the flame is at an angle or straight up. It may be moving to much air causing the flame to be drawn away from the flame sensor thus shutting down the unit. There is an air gate on the blower assembly that may have for some reason come open to much and you may have to adjust it.
      Also check to make sure the sail switch is not getting hung up. The acuating switch can get worn over time and cause it to drag in the slot. If nessecery you may have to bend the arm a little to stop it from dragging.

  157. dan March 12, 2013 at 5:02 am #

    Hello,
    You helped me in the past with my thermopile issue. Thank you. Now I have a new problem. The pilot light stays lit, but when I turn my thermostat dial it makes an initial click and the burners will not fire up. Is it the thermostat?

    • dan March 12, 2013 at 5:34 am #

      I also have a hi-limit thermostat and oper.thermostat… which 2 wires do I touch to test my “thermostat?”

      Royal Fryer
      RFT-50

      • Tundra Restaurant Supply March 13, 2013 at 9:02 am #

        Dan, it sounds like the t-stat is bad. If you want to test it, just put a jumper on the 2 terminals of the thermostat: if the t-stat opens the burner will light and it means you have a bad t-stat. However, if it doesn’t open, then the gas valve is bad and you will need to replace that. One side of the gas valve that is regulated by the t-stat is closed and will not open when the t-stat calls for gas to the burners.

        Hope this helps.

  158. greg April 14, 2013 at 6:43 pm #

    please help i tested the thermocouple it works fine tested the hi-limit it is fine the termostat was no so i changed that my fryer now lites and heats the oil to the proper temperature (i checked with my thermometers on three different oil temps the issue i’m having is that when it gets to the desired temp and the burners shut off so does the pilot lite please help i am in desperate need of input asap

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply April 15, 2013 at 6:51 am #

      Greg
      It sounds like you have a bad thermocouple, you might need to test it again and when you do, you will need a meter that reads in Millivolts and you’ll need to remove the leads from the Hi-Limit, to test it. If the thermocouple does not read at least 750 millivolts, then your thermocouple is bad. Feel free to contact me if you need further assistance. my contact info is 1-800-447-4941 x7277.

      Thanks Kevin

  159. Erich April 23, 2013 at 7:40 am #

    Hi
    I have a DCS fryer that seems to work fine. However, I cant turn the pilot knob at all. It’s stuck pretty good. Could this be oil buildup? Needs to be cleaned out? It pushes in fine, but won’t turn.
    Thanks for your help

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply April 24, 2013 at 8:26 am #

      Erich,

      It sounds like a broken spring inside the combi valve – you may want to think about replacing it. We do carry combi valves for DCS here, https://www.etundra.com/dcs/, it you’re interested.

      Thanks for the comment!

  160. Miles April 29, 2013 at 12:47 pm #

    Hi, I’ve got another problem with my Pitco 14R. I’ve got a candling problem. Little flames that come up off the jets when the fryer is off. I’ve replaced the combination gas valve and it was fine for a few days but now it’s back. This is also a double fryer and one has the problem, the other is fine. Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    -Miles

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply April 30, 2013 at 3:19 pm #

      It sounds like carbon build-up on the burner. Try checking that and see if that helps you.

      • Miles May 1, 2013 at 11:10 pm #

        This link you provide goes to information about how to clean out an engine. Can you explain how this applies?

        • Tundra Restaurant Supply May 6, 2013 at 8:20 am #

          Sorry about that Miles, that link definitely seems to be the wrong one! Try this one: http://bit.ly/10e7uvX.

          Or more specifically, these:

          http://www.ehow.com/how_12058272_clean-carbon-buildup-fryer.html
          http://www.ehow.com/how_7414864_remove-carbon-buildup-deep-fryers.html
          http://bravettifryer.danielcadams.com/how-to-remove-carbon-buildup-in-deep-fryers/

          Hope this helps!

          • Miles May 7, 2013 at 12:01 pm #

            Perhaps I was unclear. The problem I’m having is that a small amount of gas is coming out of the combi valve when the thermostat is off even though I just replaced the valve. Little flames come up off the jet orifices, like candles (I can see it in the venturi space before the burner tubes.) If I turn the knob on the valve to the ‘Off’ position the flames go out. Once again, I just replaced the combi valve so it’s not that, unless I got a defective one from you guys.

          • Tundra Restaurant Supply May 8, 2013 at 10:55 am #

            Miles, I think it may be time to contact the manufacturer to see what they would recommend. If you share your model and serial number, we’d be happy to locate the information you need to get in contact with them.

        • william eng June 8, 2013 at 12:10 am #

          Hi Miles, did you find a solution to the little flames off the orifice? I have the same problem on my pitco fryer. Any help would be appreciated.
          Thanks

  161. Erika Bullock May 2, 2013 at 3:34 pm #

    We just hooked up our dean sr162gn and it works great. However, about every 5 minutes it will start humming the most high pitch horrible noise. So bad I can hear it in next room. Gas guys say it is not on their ends of the gas lines. Any idea of what may be wrong?
    Thanks in advance!

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply May 6, 2013 at 8:26 am #

      It sounds like a faulty combi valve or thermostat, but we’d recommend calling Dean’s tech support to get more information: 800.551.8633. Good luck!

  162. Robert Duran May 12, 2013 at 3:10 am #

    Hello Greg ,
    I being reading your articles on trouble shooting deep fryers . Your information is very useful .I have a Cecilware FMP 65 that was converter to LP . Last year I drop it off to be refurbished and cleaned up . My local way moved away and did no complete the job . That leaves me to try to navigate all this . I cleaned up the fryer but the pilot would light and when I went to turn the thermostat the pilot goes out every time . I order a combination valve . Robert Shaw 700-406 . I replaced the combination valve but still having same issue . The old combination valve did not have a serial number . That is why I order the 700-406. The old combination valve has a wire that connects out of the valve connecting to the wiring harness . The combination valve does not have this wire . The box for the new valve states 24 volts . Should I have bought a millivolt combination valve ? To add to confusion there is a a diagram with the instructions that state a hydraulic combination valve is availabel that works with a thermostat and a thermopile . Did I buy the wrong valve ? In addition when using the LP conversotion kit I did not notice any difference in the holes of the diaphragm is this normal ?

    thanks

  163. Don May 30, 2013 at 8:00 pm #

    HI .

    I can turn on the fryer ,But it shut down only after 10 minutes and I think the oil is still not heat enough , I need to relight it when the oil temp is not hot at all..What can i do ?

  164. Don May 30, 2013 at 8:04 pm #

    Even if I can relight the fryer ,IT shut down again

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply May 31, 2013 at 10:52 am #

      Don, Do you mind sharing the make and model number of your fryer? We’re pretty sure it’s a thermostat or hi-limit issue, but we can give you better instructions with the make and model number.

  165. Don May 31, 2013 at 11:45 am #

    It’s a 14s pitco fryer and it works for over 10 or 15 years.. Thank you.

  166. william eng June 10, 2013 at 4:35 pm #

    I have a Pitco 45C that is about 4 years old and runs on natural gas.
    On 2 of the orifices, there are constant small candle like flames that will not shut off unless the pilot is turned off. As a result, the burners get clogged with soot and have to be cleaned everyday and flames shoot inside the cabinet because the burners are full of soot.

    How do I stop these 2 orifices from staying lit. I have 2 of these fryers and this is the only problem I had with these units.

    I have tried to adjust the oxygen mixing valve screw to no avail. Any other suggestions?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply June 24, 2013 at 11:04 am #

      William,

      It looks like you have carbon build up, or the gas valve is not shutting completely off. Sounds like gas is bypassing the valve somehow. We’d recommend contacting Pitco tech support directly. To see if they could give you further insight.

      Thanks.

  167. mike June 11, 2013 at 12:53 pm #

    I just purchased new 2 tri-star fryers with propane setup my problem is once get the pilot light lit and go to turn the thermostat on has soon has the thermostat clicks the pilot flame reduces almost to nothing and the burners never kick on

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply June 24, 2013 at 11:06 am #

      Mike,

      It sounds like a thermopile or thermostat problem. Try using the instructions above to test them.

      Thanks.

  168. Tundra Restaurant Supply June 24, 2013 at 11:07 am #

    Hello all, we’ve been working on a video to help you all better DIY your fryer issues. Hopefully that will help with a lot of the issues we’ve been seeing on here – stay tuned!

  169. dan July 22, 2013 at 12:03 pm #

    Hi does any one in the Detroit-Port Huron , Michigan area repair fryers? Mine is heating the oil up too much and occasionally the pilot goes out, thanks.

  170. Lourdes August 17, 2013 at 10:24 am #

    I have a Pitco Frialator and a Dean gas fryers; came in this morning, drained & cleaned both, etc. , turned the heat up and within 20-30 seconds, they turn off.

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply August 20, 2013 at 8:30 am #

      Lourdes,

      Does the pilot stay lit?

      Thanks,

      Tundra

  171. comparebusinesselectricityrates.co.uk September 5, 2013 at 1:49 am #

    This is a good tip particularly to those fresh to the blogosphere.
    Simple but very accurate info… Many thanks for sharing this one.

    A must read article!

  172. Frank October 22, 2013 at 1:38 am #

    I need some help!
    I have a Double Basket LPG fryer from ACE (china made) with 3 Batteries for the Sparks.
    One fryer stopped working a while ago, only starts sometimes, as I am not that busy I just used the other fryer.
    Now this one is giving me problems. Usually it starts fine 1st thing in the morning, heats up to the set temperature and shuts off as it should.
    BUT when the temperature goes down it doesn’t come on again, which means no CHIPS!
    Maybe after one or 2 hours it come on again.
    I replaced the batteries but no success.
    Is there anyone who can tell me what the problem my be ?
    Frank
    egalwo@gmx.net

  173. Frank October 29, 2013 at 2:32 am #

    Thank you very much for your reply!! Much appreciate

    The fryer has the Company name “ACE” printed on it so I though it was ACE trading in UK but they told me they don’t supply Gas fryers.
    I then looked online and found my fryer and knew it was made in China (I guess) for the past 2 weeks I try to get those parts (I am not even sure if this is the Problem) I contacted the Company in China asking for those parts but they told me I have to order a minimum of 500 pieces!!
    Like I said this f** fryer does not have a “normal” Thermostat fitted its all king of electronic and those 2 bimetal controllers which I think are the modern type of thermostat.
    If I cant get the parts there must be a way of converting this fryer into a normal fryer ??
    The third link you posted looks almost like the piece I am looking for? BUT it has to be the same Temperature which is 60* to 240*

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply November 1, 2013 at 8:46 am #

      Frank,

      It’s possible there is a way to convert it, but we’re not quite sure how. Your best bet, at this point, is probably to find a local restaurant equipment repair company and see what they can do. Best of luck to you!

  174. Josh k November 2, 2013 at 11:40 am #

    I have a VULCAN ECONOFRY EF-3. When u turn on thermostat it kills the pilot to where it’s barely lit. And the burners don’t kick on

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply November 6, 2013 at 10:39 am #

      Josh, sounds like it may be the thermopile that needs to be replaced.

      • Josh k November 11, 2013 at 4:51 pm #

        It worked thanks !!!!! N

  175. Frank November 5, 2013 at 2:11 am #

    giving up ! I bought myself a 2nd hand Parry Table top fryer, only have a single tank with just 7l oil capacity (compare to my “old” double tank 18l x 2 ) but hope it will do the job ? NEVER again I buy made in CHINA!

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply November 6, 2013 at 10:40 am #

      Good luck, Frank. We hope that your new fryer works better for you as well!

  176. Frank November 7, 2013 at 10:21 am #

    got my “new” fryer today and guess what looks like I wasted £350 for this fryer.

    I cant get it work, when I press the ignite button I will lit but when I release the button the Flame will go out (yes I was holding it for a long time) The high limit fuse or switch is out, is this normal ? I think the red button only come out when there is a fault ?

  177. Eva November 8, 2013 at 8:31 am #

    I have an electric Wells F-67 dual fryer. I am always replacing the relay…could there be another problem

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply November 12, 2013 at 11:01 am #

      Eva, it sounds like a voltage issue – surge or incorrect voltage coming into the unit. For model F-67, you should be at 240 volts.

  178. Frank November 8, 2013 at 12:36 pm #

    Many people here had a similar problem, where the pilot doesn’t stay and a faulty thermo couple was the possible problem. So I went a bought myself a universal thermo couple , replaced it myself (proud of me) and guess what, it worked again.
    Thanks for this site here and all the good tips and help I received. Hope I don’t have to come back here for help ;-)

  179. Esme November 11, 2013 at 3:16 pm #

    Which brand is better a Pitco SSH55 or Frymaster MJ45? And why?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply November 12, 2013 at 11:13 am #

      Esme, the SSH55 series has options for a computer or digital controller, and is all stainless. The base unit for an MJ45 is gas control. You’ll get more BTU’s on the MJ45, which is better for faster recovery time, but with all the bells & whistles Pitco has, that may be a better option for you. The question really is, will the MJ45 suit your needs?

  180. Chris November 11, 2013 at 6:06 pm #

    Guys can someone help me out .. anyway of repairing a hole in a fryer without removing it stripping and welding ? any assistance would be appreciated.

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply November 12, 2013 at 11:03 am #

      Chris, we can’t think of anyway of doing this without removing the stripping and welding; however, if the fryer is less than five years old, the frypot itself is generally covered by the warranty.

  181. jeffrey burrows November 22, 2013 at 8:17 am #

    Hi i have a imperial Deepfat fryer when it lights after a month or so it builds up a lot of black suds can you tell me what is wrong

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply December 3, 2013 at 9:20 am #

      Jeffrey,

      We have a couple of questions for you, so that we can make sure we give you a proper answer.

      1. What is it that you’re frying?
      2. Are you changing the oil using filter powder, boil out, etc.?
      3. Are you having similar issues with other gas equipment on site?

      It sounds like it could be carbon build-up, but wanted to see your answer the the top questions before being certain.

      Thanks.

  182. Aquiles January 15, 2014 at 8:03 am #

    I have 2 fryers that are leaking slowly from the welded edges, both from opositte sides but same place both.
    Is there anything I can do to fix them, or do I need to take them to the welder?
    Thanks

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply January 27, 2014 at 8:08 am #

      Aquiles,

      You will have to have those welded to get them in working order again; however, generally the tank is covered under a 5 year warranty – parts only and labor not covered – but we’d definitely suggest looking into the warranty if the fryer is still under 5 years old.

  183. Cory January 27, 2014 at 8:06 am #

    I have a 75lb imperial fryer and it appears that the wire that connects to the thermostat has been broken (probably due to careless wand use while filtering). Can that wire be fixed or does the entire thermostat need to be changed?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply January 30, 2014 at 10:04 am #

      Cory,

      It depends on what you mean by wire. If it’s one of the two terminals on top, then yes that can be repaired. You would just need a terminal, part 42300 or 42301. You would need to strip the wire & crimp the terminal on. If it’s the capillary tube, which attaches to the 5” bulb, it cannot.

  184. troy February 7, 2014 at 5:59 am #

    I have a Frialator 45c where the pilot will light, and stay lite. When the gas is on, the unit will function fine for a couple days. Then for not apparent reason, the pilot will remain lit, but when calling for heat, the burners will not ignite. When this call is made, the pilot will reduce in size to about half the height of the original pilot like it is starving for gas. Any suggestions?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply February 11, 2014 at 12:40 pm #

      Troy,

      With the pilot at least staying lit, you can rule out the thermopile, but the answer really is that this is a phantom call (meaning, we’d need a bit more information to really give you solid advice). If we had to guess we’d says it’s likely the combination gas safety valve, but we’re curious as to whether you’re seeing gas pressure fluctuations with any of the other equipment on site?

      You can always call us and chat with our customer support team so that they can help you work through the issue too – just give us a call at 888-388-6372.

  185. Joseph T February 26, 2014 at 8:54 am #

    I have an imperial IFS-40 model NPG fryer. When I light it the flames going into the burners are large and yellow not blue. They actually go not only into the burners but also over them and around the sides. I am worried about scorching my basin. What could be causing this and how do you fix it?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply March 3, 2014 at 2:00 pm #

      Joseph, do you have a regulator installed on the gas line?

  186. Frank March 19, 2014 at 3:19 am #

    Parry LPG table top fryer Problem

    I have a problem AGAIN this time with my parry fryer.
    The pilot will not stay on, so I assumed its the Thermocouple which I replaced with a Universal Couple.
    Pilot stayed and burner started and shut off when reaches the temperature. Then I noticed after a while that the pilot was off, properly the wind blew it out, when I tried to lit the Pilot again it wont stay AGAIN!, could the new Thermocouple broke again ?????

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply March 24, 2014 at 9:51 am #

      Frank, we’d suggest ensuring the thermocouple tip is in the flame and double checking the connections. Let us know if this helps.

  187. Joe April 1, 2014 at 7:16 pm #

    I am not sure on our model, fish and chip fryer, it’s old though. I know that the high limit is kaput on one pan but the pilot light itself is not a roaring flame like the other pan. I have located a relase valve which makes the pilot flame bigger if unscrewed but it’s still not very powerful, just a big yellow flame. Any suggestions?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply April 3, 2014 at 10:14 am #

      Joe, try cleaning the pilots – that should help you out.

  188. Sarah April 25, 2014 at 7:34 am #

    Hi!

    I have a Frymaster two basket deep fryer. I think 20L or so? Anyway, It was working fine, then one day during service, the temperature dropped. When I turn it on, it goes up to temp (350), but then slowly loses temperature, until it hits 330, where it will stay.

    I have to turn the dial way way up in order for it to get back up to 350. Any ideas?

    • Kasy Allen April 25, 2014 at 11:22 am #

      Sarah, it sounds like it’s the thermostat, but make sure the probe is secure in the tank first, because if it’s not, you can get erroneous readings.

  189. neecha June 4, 2014 at 12:40 am #

    I have a Dean deep fryer we usually set to 350F. When we turned it to 350F it seemed like it wasn’t turning on. Then when we tried to set it to a higher temperature, it starting working. Am I correct in thinking this a thermostat problem?

    • Kasy Allen June 19, 2014 at 12:49 pm #

      Yes, the thermostat would be the problem maker. They can be calibrated by a professional or you can try replacing it yourself.

  190. Ron Eland July 7, 2014 at 8:33 pm #

    My fryer lights up but don’t shut off @ any temp the thermostat is brand new. But I do not see a thermopile will not having this part cause this issue?

    • Kasy Allen July 8, 2014 at 1:06 pm #

      Ron, what is the make and model number of your fryer?

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