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Repairing Commercial Fryers

commercial-deep-fryerWhen your fryer needs to be repaired you probably want to get it up and running again fast.  Fortunately, commercial fryers are generally easy to repair, and parts are also pretty easy to come by.  There are 4 fryer parts that most commonly cause a fryer to fail:

1. Hi-Limit
2. Thermopile
3. Combination Safety Gas Valve
4. Thermostat

How to Determine What the Problem Is


If the pilot light will not stay lit, 1 of 3 things have failed:

  1. Hi-Limit. First, check to see if the hi-limit is the culprit by taking one wire off and connecting it with the other wire.  Do as you always do and light the pilot.  If the pilot remains lit, then the high limit is bad and needs to be replaced.  To replace the hi-limit, you first need to empty the oil from the tank.  This needs to be done because the sensing bulb for the hi-limit enters through the side of the tank.  There is a large nut in the side of the tank and a smaller nut inside the large nut, loosen and pull these off.  Now you can remove the defective high limit.  Reverse the procedure to install the new hi-limit.  Always screw the larger nut into the tank first and then the smaller nut.  Light the pilot and your unit should be working.A Commercial Fryer Hi Limit
  2. Thermopile. If the pilot still will not stay lit, then the thermopile is most likely the culprit.  One end is attached to the pilot and the other is attached to the gas valve.  Remove the thermopile from both places and replace.  Light the pilot, and if it remains lit you are good to go.  Also, remember to reconnect the hi-limit wire.A Thermopile For A Commercial Fryer
  3. Combination Safety Gas Valve. If the pilot still will not stay lit, then the only thing left is the combination safety gas valve.  To replace the combo valve, you will need to have a couple of pipe wrenches.  This is the most difficult part to change, due to the limited space.  Remember to install the new gas valve in the same direction and replace all the connections.A Combination Safety Valve For A Commercial Fryer

If the pilot is lit, but the fryer still does not work, the thermostat may be faulty.  Only 3 things can happen:

  1. Either the burner will not light when turned on even though the pilot is lit.
  2. The oil will not get hot enough.
  3. When the oil reaches temperature it will not shut off.

Thermostat. In either case the thermostat will need to be replaced.  If it is running wild (will not shut off) the oil will overheat causing the hi-limit to trip out and shut everything off.  By resetting the hi-limit and relighting the pilot and it stays lit, then you will know that the thermostat is not good.  To replace the thermostat follow the same instructions for replacing the hi-limit.A Thermostat For A Commercial Fryer
Interested in more? Download our Commercial Deep Fryer Buying & Maintenance Guide Here »

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  1. My deep fryer is a liberty 115000btu propane unit and after using it for about half an hour at 375degrees it quits.. I wonder if I need a new thermocouple? I press the red reset high limit button then turn the gas valve off and wait 2 or 3minutes relight the pilot it comes on turn it to gas on the knob and then I turn the thermostat to 350 or so and nothing happens… Could the high limit be faulty ??? Do I have to wait longer? Will the fryer work without the high limit control??

    • Hi Don,

      We’re pretty sure your thermostat and your high limit are shot. Read the post above for some instructions on testing your high limit.

      More importantly, though: how old is this fryer? I know quite a few people who have been in the food service equipment business for a long time and only one of them had ever even heard of a Liberty fryer. It might be time to upgrade: click here to take a look at some new fryers.

      As far as finding replacement parts for your Liberty, I’m not really sure what to tell you. You can try calling 1-888-388-6372 (Tundra Specialties: they don’t stock Liberty parts but they MIGHT be able to special order them).

      Good luck.

      • Hi,
        I have a pitco deep Gas fryer which was running fine but, unfortunately, yesterday my staff started main burners without refilling oil in the tank. Today, we tried to turn it on but its pilot does not stay lit. As soon as we leave the knob, pilots turns off.Please advise?

        • Faisal, it sounds like the thermopile is bad and needs to be replaced. If you need help finding the right thermopile for your equipment, give our team a call at 888-388-6372 or use our Live Chat feature on our site and we’ll direct you to the right place!

      • I have a fryer and the flames are coming all out of the back of fryer when turned on , also when turned on it hesitatethen the flames shoot out

        • Chris,
          Either the orifices on the burners and the flue path needs to be cleaned, or your fuel to air mix is incorrect. I’d recommend a service visit to dial in the unit.

          – Paul
          Tundra Team

      • Liberty is the same as Duke. it might be their 2nd line

    • Fryers cost 600-700 dollars new. The actual likely culprit is the thermostat is “stacking” – temperatures climb each time the burners cycle on until finally it shuts off on high limit. The high limit is not shot since its obviously doing its job. Replacing high limit and thermostat are probably not worth it since you can buy new for only a few hundred dollars more.

    • What do you do when you have a fryer that the whole front of it is getting to hot

      • David, can you elaborate a bit more on your question? Are you saying only the front is getting hot and not the back?

        • I too have an gas Imperial fryer that the front area is getting hot. Looking underneath I can see how some of the flame is coming forward of the fire chamber. Is there adjustments, maintenance or blockage in heating tubes? Suggestions?

          • Tom, sounds like an air flow problem. Either soot in the burner tubes or a restriction/blockage of the exhaust .flue.
            Get a good flashlight and look into the burner tubes (the fire chamber, as you called them). Each burner has its own. If you see puffy, black globs hanging around in the burner tubes, that’s soot and it needs removed (MESSY).

            A restricted flue is usually grease or sometimes food that got down in there. If so, then the back of the fryer would need to be taken apart in order to scrape it all out.

            A TECH HINT ABOUT AIRFLOW: To make a nice, blue flame, you need 10x the volume of air as there is the fuel gas (natural or LP). On any gas appliance, air is drawn throughthe front to mix with the fuel, is burned and exhausts out the back and up. If the flames are coming forward, then the path for the flame and exhaust gases is blocked.

    • I have a pitco frialator. It is blowing back a burst of flame when it is turned on. Suggestions?

      • Hi Amanda,
        Sounds like a gas flow issue. Something could be clogged too, like the pilot orifice. At the same time, when turning on gas equipment this does naturally happen to a small extent, so without much more info it is vague to diagnose. If you have more questions, feel free to give us a call at 888-388-6372 or contact us at https://www.etundra.com/about/contact-us/.

  2. I have an Imperial ifs50 recently replaced hi limit now 3 weeks later the pilot stays lit and the burners just slightly f licker ( like just a little gas is coming trouugh) I have a replacement thermostat i temporary wired it in and it still wont light the burners. Possibly the Valve???

    • Hi Erik,

      Your problem is most likely your combination safety valve. Also make sure you check your burner orifices as well for any obstructions. Click the link at the top of this post to order a new combo safety valve with same day shipping.

  3. Hi,

    I have a American Range fryer Model # AF45 , the problem I’m having is when I go to turn the thermostate on the pilot light goes out every time. I relight the pilot light and go to restart by turning the knob and it goes out. Can you help me in determining what needs to be replaced. Thanks!

    • Hi Strac,

      You need to go through a process of elimination to determine why the pilot light will not stay lit. You need to test the hi limit, the thermopile, and the combination safety valve to find the culprit. Follow the instructions in the post above starting with “1. If the pilot will not stay lit:”

  4. Hi Greg,

    After testing the Hi limit and finding that it was fine I changed the thermopile and the fryer workes just fine. Thanks for the help. I do have another question for you, Is there a way to test the thermopile to see if it is working without buying a new one. I think I saw some kind of device somewhere to do that. Thanks again for your help!



    • Hi Strac,

      It is technically possible to test the thermopile without changing it out, but you would need a first-rate voltage meter that went down to millivolts. That’s because the thermopile only registers about 750 millivolts of power when it’s working. That requires a pretty sensitive instrument that’s going to cost you some money.

      Unless you already have a voltage meter that is that sensitive, it’s going to be much cheaper to change out the thermopile and see if that fixes your problem.

      Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!

  5. My deep fryer has several holes in the stainless steel tub, whats the best way to repair this? can “JB weld” be used?

    • Hi Manny,

      I’m sorry to say you’re going to need to replace your fryer. Those holes are a result of stress fractures in the stainless steel that form over years of superheating and cooling. No matter how much you try to patch those holes, more are going to form as metal fatigue gets worse and worse.

      Sorry to be the bearer of bad news… But you can check out new fryers here: commercial fryers.

  6. Hello

    We have a Pitco Frialator at work. For some reason, in the afternoon around 1 or 2pm the fryer would go crazy bubbling and boiling violently, like there was air coming from the bottom of the fryer. It did NOT have the sound like there was water in it. The fryer has been on all morning and only this happens in the afternoon. We could never figure out what is wrong with it. Please advise.

    Thank you so much!


    • Hi Gerald,

      It sounds like you have two problems: firstly, your thermostat is “running wild” and needs to be replaced. Secondly, your hi limit is also shot and needs to be replaced as well. Running a fryer without the hi limit is extremely dangerous! Oil in the fryer should never, ever boil, and if it is, then you’re running the risk of a serious fire.

      Please don’t use the fryer until you’ve replaced these two parts! The information on how to replace these two parts is in the post above.

  7. I was reading Gerald’s problem. I have 4 pitco units operating and my fry shop. We had the same problems with our systems. We use real potatoes and the starch and small bits would sit in a hot frier for about 4 to 5 hours without a sound. All of a sudden these small bits would surface suddenly and all at once. Makes a horrible sound and is very scary. Our friers are working properly and the temperatures remain proper. We fixed this by (using a long PTFE brush) brushing the bottom of the friers 2 hours after opening and skim the remenants off. We filter our friers at 2-3 pm every day. I hope this may help.

  8. I have a two year old American Range that has been used a total of 6mos. and now has a small tank leak. It is no longer under manftr. waranty. Manf. was willing to give me a deal on new tank but with shipping and labor I’m still looking at $600. Can the leak be succesfully fixed another way? Or a new fryer.

    • Hi Ian,

      Unfortunately, there is no easy way to fix a tank leak on a fryer. I’m surprised it developed a leak so quickly, but in general, when a leak develops it is because of metal fatigue from constant heating and cooling and patching won’t change the fact that the metal is worn. I would suggest purchasing a new fryer here.

  9. Lawerence Saylor

    I saw your blog bookmarked on Furl. I love your site and articles. Keep up the great work.

  10. I have a Pitco unit, no idea how old. The pilot won’t stay lit. Everytime the fryer goes out we have to hit the reset switch and then go through the process of lighting it again. We set it to 350 and in about 10 minutes or less the whole thing goes out. The Pilot flame looks alittle low on one side (not sure if its always been like that). Also a year ago or so we replaced the thermopile although we really didn’t need to, we just didn’t know about the reset button. Any help would be great. Thanks

    • Get a multimeter and test at the points where the thermopile connect to the combination gas valve. If millivoltage levels are around 200 or lower its not enough to engage the burner valve. You really should have 450 millivolts or more. If millivolts are low, check the pilot flame for proper impingement around the top of the thermopile. Most Combination gas valves have a pilot adjustment screw which may be loosened to increase gas flow. Remove the top screw where it says “pilot adjustment” and get a smaller flat head screwdriver to loosen the screw inside. If that doesn’t help, check for debris in the pilot head. Also, check the vent at the appliance regulator on the combination gas valve for debris / oil clogs. Clearing the clogs usually alleviates pressure problems.

      If the “reset switch” you’re referring to is the high limit reset, you likely need a new thermostat. Test oil temperature with a probe to ensure the burners are not overheating the fryer oil. The high limit is designed to cut off gas supply if the temperature exceeds 450 degrees (and that’s a good thing!). If its shutting itself off due to too-high temperatures, you definitely need a new thermostat. If the temperatures are fine and millivoltage levels are good from the thermopile, the problem is likely a failing high limit.

      • Hi,
        I have a pitco deep Gas fryer which was running fine but, unfortunately, yesterday my staff started main burner without refilling oil in the tank. Today, we tried to turn it on but its pilot does not stay lit. As soon as we leave the knob, pilot turns off. Please advise?

  11. Hi You metioned of never hearing of A Liberty fryer I have two of them ”
    Liberty35 Basic” 100,000 btu
    they are both workink fine one is A year old and the other new the only thing I find worng is they both make A popping sound sort of like a back fire from an older car could you tell me what would cause this

    thanks Don L

    • It’s hard to say what’s causing that sound Don. My guess is frozen food bits or ice crystals dropping into the hot oil, but I can’t say for sure. Sorry I can’t be more help!


    • Hi Robby,

      The best thing for you to do would be to start with replacing the thermostat. However, the safety valve may also be bad. If you replace the thermostat and that doesn’t do the trick, you’ll have to replace that.

    • Sir, the problem is a lazy solenoid or magneto. Its the component that the thermopile screws into it normaly has a large nut or hex head to it. Turn off the gas remove the thermopile unscrew the the magneto and replace it.
      John west london catering UK

  13. Hi,
    I’ve an American Range deep fryer. When I turn it to pilot mode, it just give out a weak flame at the thermopile. I try to adjust the pilot flame at the adjustment knob. it just still be very small flame. The flame is so small that it could not ignite the thermopile. Please help!


  14. Hi I have many anet fryers and when I try to start one it makes a big bang and won’t lite what should I do?

  15. we have three Pitco,s two 18,s and 1 14 all three carbon up bad blowing carbon out of the chimny, also fire comes back to the front of each unit and the metal on the front gets real hot, we clean the burners and tubes once a month and make sure there is know blockage.

  16. Hi,

    Having trouble with a Pitco Fryer. The pilot stays lit and fryer works fine most of the time, but recently it appears to cut off for no apparent reason. You can hear the flames go out as if they are being blown out. There is not a draft that would cause this. Any suggestions? This may happen once a week or sometimes 3-4 times a night.

  17. Hi , recently read your post which helped me to determine my hi-limit is faulty really appreciate the info and how to test ! But im having a hard time believing theres no way to patch a leaky fryer , have an imperial ifs-40 and have a few small leaks around the cast iron heating tubes that go thru the tank , the leaks are at the front on the top of the tube where it meets the stainless tank ( not sure if the tubes are crimped and or welded/brazed to the tank ), i’m almost sure it is from the cast iron rusting from years of cleaning being exposed to water and air. Its been operating for atleast a few years with these leaks which are about 2 fl ounces in a 24hr period. I dont see the reason to purchase a new fryer at this rate , is there anyway to stop the leak ?

    • Hi Adam,

      Glad we could help! On the leaking problem, it sounds like the stainless steel portion of the tank is slowly cracking due to metal fatigue (from constant heating and cooling). The problem with fryer tanks once they begin to leak is that the extreme temperatures involved make it almost impossible to patch a hole once it starts. This is because the metal expands and contracts so much.

      That leaking oil is a fire hazard and it sounds like it’s about time to replace your fryer. Sorry for the bad news!

    • I have dealt with this many times on new and old imperial/elite fryers. remove tank clean and weld or if you can get at it remove burners then clean and weld there is no other way. john

      • I have an American Range fryer and I sprayed water near the pilot and burner to get some of the soot out of there. Now the pilot stays lit but the burner keeps going on and off… What should I do?

        • You might have damaged the electronic thermostat. Turn the pilot knob off. On the top of the thermostat there is 2 wires. Take one off and put it on the other connection so they are both on the same side. Now when you light the unit and turn the knob from pilot to on the burners should fire right away and stay on. If it runs for 2 minutes without doing the problem you described then your thermostat is bad. If it still does the problem then your Combination safety valve is bad. Be sure not to try to run the unit in this way, because it’s now running without a thermostat.

          – Paul
          Tundra Team

      • Craig Longstaff

        Hi John, we have an imperial cifs 24 lpg fryer bought from the uk that we are now using in Spain, we cannot find anyone to service our machine and we are getting lots of black soot on the ceiling and walls, we currently have size 52 jets and are going to try size 56 jets do you think this will help the problem or do you know what else it could be, also the front door is getting hot too?
        Many thanks

  18. Hi, I have 2 Imperial Friers, model IFS-40. One of it is broken. I saw the pilot light is weak. Before, everytime I turn it on, I have to use a knife or scew driver to knock the Combination Valve, then it works. However, after it takes breaktime, then I have to knock Combination Valve again, so it works again. Do you know which part is broken? I saw the above article, none of the above applies for my situation. Thanks!

  19. Got a Emperial IFS40 fryer and the pilot light will light but when the oil reaches the temp on the dial the pilot light shuts off. It does not matter what temp you set if still shuts off when it reaches that temp. What might I look at first. Thanks,MG

  20. thank for the response.

  21. I have a dean deep fryer the pilot won’t stay lit I replaced the high limit switch & the gas valve I tried the thermopile from my other fryer still won’t stay lit what else could it be Thanks Randy

    • Hmmm good question Randy. I would double check that you installed the gas valve in the correct direction, double check that the thermopile you’re using is functional, and double check the installation on the hi-limit. If those things check out, then I would call a service tech.

  22. Hello i have a cecielware GF28 countertop what would be the best way to clean the carbon? THANKS.

  23. We have a pitco and Dean having trouble with both sooting up . What is causing it and how can we stop the sooting

  24. To Todd
    I had the sam eproblem with carbon biulding up on a pitco fryer, you need to adjust your gas line pressure and this will stop the problem. I had my pressure really low and once I adjusted never had a problem again.

  25. Hi, i have deep-fry, the pilot stays lit but the burners just slightly like obstruction some where or not enough gas goes through. Today, i opened all the pipes and ortifires clean-up and replace new combination saferty gas valve, reconnect all pipes and the wires same position as old one. Now, pilot stay lit, but the burner not light at all. Any help would be great. Thanks

  26. Thanks Greg!

    You are right, thermostat dead, changed another one working, but has other problem, the flame too strong, don’t know where to adjust pressure, look on the manual came with product, did not show the pressure setting. When i bought, its for NPG, but my deep-fry uses LPG and i only changed the spring supply with it, convert to LPG, is it the problem? Thanks for your help.

    Regards Joe.

    • Hi Joe,

      Glad to hear the thermostat helped. I think there’s a good chance you need to convert to LPG. You should probably do this anyway, even if that’s not the problem. Good luck.

  27. I own 2 Frymaster GF14ST deep fryers. Recently I replaced on both the gas valves, the thermopiles, and the hi-limit switches. Both worked well for a while. Now one has a problem: thermostat set to around 375 degrees, when it reaches that temp. pilot goes out. When oil temp. drops, I re-light the pilot, temp. goes back up, then at 375 its goes out again. I do a lot of potatoes, am having to re-light after every order. Plz help.

    • Well, by process of elimination the thermostat is the only thing left Gary. I would try replacing that and see what happens… If you’re still having trouble then it’s probably time to call a service tech.

    • Gas valve wiring could be landed wrong. Reference the schematic.

      • Hey Andrew,

        If the unit was wired wrong the valve would either not open at all or it would cause the valve to be wide open.

        If the valve does not open you would not be able to light the pilot.

        If the valve is wide open you can light the pilot and as soon as you do the burners will light but as soon as you turn on the thermostat everything shuts down because it has actually cut the power (millivolts) to the valve.

  28. we have a fryer at the legion we use for our chicken fries. fires up, runs a minute or two and then shuts down. faulty thermocouple or what? any advice appreciated. thanks in advance.
    Joe Helmueller adjutant.

    • Hi Joe,

      I would start at the top of this article with the hi limit. If that doesn’t work move on to the thermopile and then the combo safety valve and the thermostat.

  29. Hello,

    I have a pitco Fryer, 35-C, and I cannot get the pilot to light at all. When I hold in the button to release the air out of the system, it stays lit until I release the button. I have been trying to light the pilot for about 2 hours now. Any suggestions? I purchased this fryer from a restaurant owner who went out of business. I converted the orifices to LP already. Please help

  30. hi i was just wandering if any one can tell me if there is any one teaching or if there is any where were i can do a cours for fixing deep fat fryers in ireland or GB

    thanks in advance

  31. I have a pitco 35c lp fryer. It fires up fine but when it reaches tempurature and shut down the nozzles? that release the gas to the fryer tubes light up with a little flame. Then when it reignites to heat the grease back to operating temp, it makes a roaring sound. If i blow out the little flames between reigniting, it works fine, until the next cycle. Then the flames light and it roars again. Is it the safety valve or the thermstat?

    • Hi Rob,

      Sounds like the combination safety valve is not closing all the way and allowing gas to fill the manifold thus the little flame. Not a good idea to blow them out because then you’re getting a gas build up that could explode when it does fire off again i.e. the roar you hear.

      Replace that combo safety valve!

  32. Thanks, That is what I thought. Just wanted your expert opinion before ordering the new one. Thanks again Rob Arbogast

  33. I have an old DCS fryer that is puzzling me. It has three burners. The middle and RH burners fire up. The LH burner does not. I have cleaned the burners, orifices and manifold. Gas pressure is good. The tubes and flues are clean. I noticed it does not have ceramics or targets in the tubes. I don’t know if DCS used these – I can’t find a manual. I’m stumped.

    • Hi Al,

      The only thing that could cause such a problem is that the orifice is blocked. Try running a wire down into it or you might even have to remove it from the manifold to clean it out.

  34. Hi It is Rob Arbogast with the Pitco 35. I received the new safety valve. When replacing the old one, I discovered that an insect had made a nest at the gas intake side of the valve while the fryer was in storage. There was a screen there so none of the nest got into the valve. I replaced the old valve and the little flames on the three orafices reignited again. I then replaced it with the new valve. The little flames were still there. The roaring sound of early gas ignition stopped after a second but when the desired temp was reached and the gas cut off, the little flames reappeared. When I turned the thermostat off,with the little flames blown out by me, I was able to relight them with a lighter. I don’t think it is the safety valve, as both the new and the old seem to work the same way, Letting the gas at the orifices get the little flame when cycled off. The gas is still getting by the valve somehow, Please help. Thanks,Rob

    • Hi Rob,

      There are two possibilities. The thermostat may not be closing all the way allowing gas to leak by or it either has too little or to much gas pressure. Too much pressure will hold open the solenoid causing the gas to leak out, too little would not have enough pressure to keep it closed. You’ll have to have a service person check the gas pressure to set it properly. It should be running between 8 and 10 inches of water column.

    • Did you find a solution to this? I have the same problem.
      Any help would be appreciated

      • Have a pitco 35C natural gas…orifices candling the same way. Had service tech here and he said gas valve.

        • Tundra Restaurant Supply

          Do you have the correct safety valve for that unit? You’re bypassing gas somehow, and may need to consult with Pitco directly to help them walk you through the issue. Check out their site for service videos and contact info: http://www.pitco.com/.

  35. I had recently come across an unusual problem with a 13 year old gas fryer. The pot is leaking grease it appears to originate from the front end seam welds. The collection of burnt grease is flaking from the inner sides of this imperial 105000 btu 40 lb fryer. My question is simple what is a sound solution for the leaks on the pot.Would a through cleaning and stick welding the weak spots be a suitable solution or is it junk?

    • Hi Jeremy,

      Once you start getting “metal fatigue” – tiny cracks in the welds and walls of the pot that form from the metal expanding and contracting over and over again as it heats then cools – that fryer is pretty much done. Any attempt at patching will only delay the inevitable and could introduce harmful chemicals or particles to the fryer oil, which wouldn’t be good for anyone.

      If you’re looking for a new fryer then check out these restaurant fryers.

  36. I have a IMPERIAL 40lb propane fryer, The fryer works fine but the only problem i have is that the flame is burning outside the tube near the pilot creating an hot skilet affect on the stainless steel surface.

    • Hi Kenneth,

      First, was it originally a propane unit? If it was natural gas was it converted to propane? Has it been doing this since you’ve had it?

      If it was propane from the factory then check to see if there is a blockage in the flue. This often happens over the years because nobody ever thinks to clean out the flue. The only other thing it could be is too much gas pressure.

      I’m willing to bet it’s the flue.

  37. Hi,
    I was working on a pitco fryer. I guess the model number is 400+ss. I had a problem with the pilot. I fixed it by cleaning the thermocouple. Other problem is that as soon as I turn the thermostat, the pilot quit. I checked high limit. It is ok. I am not %100 sure but I believe the thermostat also ok. I concern about safety valve. So what you guys think about.

    • Hi Emery,

      I haven’t heard of nor can I find a model 400+ss. But thats ok. I would recommend you change the thermopile because even though you cleaned it it still may not be putting out the proper millivolts. Because when the thermostat is turned on it drops the flame size on the pilot when the burner goes to kick on. OR the combination safety valve is bad or the thermostat is bad – but only if it is a GS type thermostat. If it is a millivolt thermostat then it would be the combination safety that is defective. I would recommend you change out the thermopile first.

  38. Hi, I was wondering if you could confirm two troubleshooting issues and potential fixes for me. The first one is a Wolf Fryer (Model# FS-WTF-42-S). The pilot works but as soon as I turn the knob to the ON position, the burner fires up and the thermostat basically has no effect at all. My suspicion is that there is either too much gas pressure, it’s LPG but I don’t have a pressure gauge to confirm it’s in the 9-11″ range, or the gas regulator valve is bad and needs to be replaced. Am I on the right track?

    The second question is on a Pitco Frialator 35C. The main burner turns on with the thermostat but never turns off with temperature. The only way to turn off the burner is to turn the thermostat dial all the way off again. The thermostat is bad right?

    Thanks in advance!

    • Hi Steven,

      If you turn on the thermostat and the burner fires and stays on then you have a defective thermostat. If it stays on then the oil would over heat and trip out the Hi Limit. If the Hi Limit does not trip then you have a defective Hi Limit also.

      The same applies for the second question including the Hi Limit.

  39. pilot light lights but burner when it is turn on back fires and shuts off pilot light service man says
    we need new gas valve

  40. Hi I have a fryer that was just cleaned and now after a few good days. The flames or yellow and the flames tool out and burn at orifices. Shut off thermostat and it continues to burn. Took fryer burners out and cleaned again had alot of really light black stuff in them. Put back together and worked fine for over a month. Now flames back to orifices again and thermostat will not shut off had to turn off at gas valve. It’s a three burner natural gas fryer old no name but looks like a frymaster

    • Hi Brent,

      My question is this. When you cleaned it was it disconnected from the gas line? It is possible that if it were water got into the gas line on the unit which means it got into the combination safety valve. Any amount of water can cause corrosion in side the valve causing it not to close all the way thus gas leaking by. This would explain the burning back to the orifices, and actually is burning into the manifold thus causing the soot problem. The flames blowing back when it comes on is probably from gas leaking into the chamber causing a gas build up thus boom.

      Hope this helps…

    • Did you find a solution to your problem? I have a similar problem and situation. Any help is appreciated.

  41. what has to be replace,when fire shoots out the back top of the fryer?

  42. Hi, we’ve recently bought a catering trailer with an AJC fryer. We were told its working but when we try it nothing happens. The gas doesn’t appear to be getting to the fryer but is coming from the supply pipe ok when its disconnected from the fryer. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

    • Can you light the pilot and does it stay on? If it does not stay on then it may have a bad thermopile or the safety may be defective. The type of safety will determine if the thermopile can be replaced or if you have to replace the interior safety.

  43. Folks, I own a restaurnat and have a Falcon G2840 Infinty Freestanding Fryer.

    Its about 4 years old and works a dream. I want someone to come and give it a good clean, but i have spent 2 days scouring the web to no avail, any ideas?

    Secondly, every hour or so it makes a mini explosion noise, a bit like a car back firing. Why is this? Is it dangeorus? Is it beacause the flue thing is blocked?

    Any help would be greatfully received. 07801 471981

    • The only thing I can think of as far as having your fryer cleaned is to google commercial restaurant hood cleaning. I did that and it comes up with a lot of hood cleaning companies. You may find one willing to clean their fryer for them.

      The other question. Could be if your flue thingy has a blockage it is causing a gas build up in the burner chamber and causing small explosions. Dangerous? Could be!

  44. I have a pitco fryer… The pilot on my fryer stays on. However, when I go to turn the fryer on to go to my usual 350 degrees, the pilot goes out. I figured it would be the thermostat so I changed it. But that did not work. Did this ever happen to you? What could the problem be? Is it a thermopile? Please get back to me!

    • Sounds to me like the combination safety is bad if the pilot stays lit it is not usually the thermopile. It sounds like the the thermopile is generating the correct millivolts otherwise the pilot would not stay lit.

      • We have a Volcan fryer that we use to fry fish for church groups and fundraisers etc. We replaced the thermostat, gas valve and thermocouple last year. Now it won’t heat up over 300 degrees. The fryer shuts off but the pilot stays lite. How can we fix this problem? We need higher temperature.

        • Tundra Restaurant Supply

          Hi David,

          Without knowing your specific unit, it’s hard to say. However, it sounds like a hi-limit issue, which could involve either or both of the thermostat and/or thermocouple. Try giving Vulcan Tech Support a call at 1-800-814-2028 and have your model number handy.

          – Tundra Team

  45. One of my fryers(newest) will not stay up to temp. It goes back to pilot & you can wiggle the wires and it will ignite again. Sometimes working all day & night & sometimes going cold many times.

    • You need to check all wire connection to make sure they are all tight and that none of the wires are broken in side the insulation.

  46. thanks guys! I will let you know what it is soon!

  47. Hi everyone: I have a frymaster deep fryer….70’s era…..it was converted from natural gas to propane…but they didnt change the pilot assembly for propane…..when it ignites the propane it is violent…..I think because the propane is heavier than air and fills up more inside the compartment before it ignites the propane……the flame goes straight up about 4 inches or so…………where can I get the correct pilot assembly? thanks Paul………..

  48. I have a Nat gas American Range AF25/25 dual well fryer. One side works fine but the other side has a problem. In order to light the pilot I have to let the thermopile heat up for as long as 5 minutes. I have replaced the thermopile. For the pilot to stay lit I have to set the pilot flame level a bit higher which sends orange flames out of the exhaust during operation. I’m not using the bad side for safety but I’d really like to get it back up and running properly. Any ideas?

    • Hi Jon,

      It sounds like the combination safety valve is bad. The coil inside of it is probably weak and increasing the pilot flame is generating a little more milivolts to open the valve. I would recommend changing out the combo safety valve.

  49. hi all ive got an lpg PITCO GAS FRYER 35C and ever since owning it ,it has left black soot around the burners and floor area also very orange flame with no roar as its ignited the only way i can sort of hold it back is by sandblasting the manifold every 3 months to clean out the holes ok thats fine but A is that a normal thing B yes its been gas checked C does anyone else suffer D im a mobile caterer and only have my fryers on for a couple hors at a time … ive spoken to pitco and they said sorry no help ive just changed gas suppliers to calor i was using flo gas thats helped a bit any clues PLEEEEEEAAAASSSSSSSEEEEE thanks in desperation gary

    • Good evening, I have an American Range af75 deep fryer…my problem is the pilot will stay lit but when I turn on thermostat the burners will not lite. I recently converted to LP and also replaced Thermostat. PLEASE HELP??

  50. Hey all,I have a american range af-45 (about 10 yrs old) it’s holding flame for aprox. 10 minutes and shutting off.Any suggestions will help.thank you!

    • Hi Tim,

      I would start by replacing the thermostat, then try the thermopile if that doesn’t do the trick.

  51. thank you for the advice greg,i,ll give it a try

  52. American Range LP Fryer 35/50 –
    Cannot light the pilot. No, it will not light AT ALL. Gas is flowing from the tank but seems to not release through the pilot tubing to the pilot. There is no hint of gas flowing through to the pilot. I am thinking it could be a pressure issue and will be checking that tomorrow. This is a brand new Fryer that has never been used.

    Thanks for any help!

    • Hi Michael,

      Although this is a new fryer the orifice may be blocked (I have seen this happen before). I would disconnect the pilot tube from the pilot assy and press the pilot start button to see if you are getting gas through the tube itself. If you do then they need to take the pilot orifice out of the pilot assy and make sure there is no blockage.

      If that does not work then it is time to call for a warranty service call.

  53. I have a problem with a pitco 35c=S fryer. We are a seasonal business and the fryers are dormant for 6 months or so each year. This problem began this year. I am able to light the pilot like I always have. It does seem to take longer for it to stay lit while holding the pilot knob. We have two of these units, the second one only needs to be held for a few seconds, this one takes 20 or 30 seocnds. Then it takes 30 minutes or so for the burners to light for the first time. After they light for the first time the unit works perfectly until the pilot is turned off. I checked the voltage from the thermopile and only get about 100mV when I first light the pilot. It slowly rises to about 250mV and then the main burners light. If I heat the thermopile with a lighter the burners light within a few seconds. I bought a new thermopile but am hesitant to install it as im not sure that this will solve the issue and it seems like a long process. I have tried to adjust the pilot and the adjustment screw does nto seem to have any effect on the size of the pilot flame. It also burns orange, not blue like our other unit. I tried to clean the pilot with compressed air and that didnt seem to have any effect. Any thoughts?

    • Go ahead and replace your thermopile. It sounds like the one you have is weak and that’s what causing all your problems. If that doesn’t work you’re going to have to replace the combination safety valve, but the thermopile should do the trick.

  54. i have a imperial fryer the pilot stays on the burner wont come on i changed the thermostat still doesnt work i changed all the wires still not working any idea/

    • Hi Nick,

      Sounds like the combination safety valve is not opening. It could be stuck shut or the valve coil may be burnt out. Also if it is not wired right the pilot will stay lit but it will not energize the main valve coil. Call me at 1-800-447-4941 ext. 7104 if you need a wiring diagram.

  55. Pilot stay lit until it reaching temp on a imperial. Ifs40. Then all flame including pilot shuts off. It is not overheating

    • Hi Doug,

      Sounds to me like the hi limit is defective and tripping out prematurely. I’ll almost bet that you have to wait for it to cool before you can relight the pilot.
      You need this hi limit.

  56. Hi,

    I have an imperial elite fryer. The pilot lights but when I turn the stat up it immediatley goes out. Is it a thermostat problem or the high limit stat

  57. I have a Pitco 35C Frialator. When it heats up over 300 degrees the high limit kicks off and shuts the fryer down. Do I need to replace the thermostat and the switch, or just one or the other? Is it even worth it to guess?

  58. Hi, thanks for the quick reply. I’m not sure that it is the thermostat, because if I don’t turn it all the way up to my normal operating temp of 350 it will stay lit, it just won’t be hot enough to cook with. Thoughts?

  59. Hi,

    I have an Imperial fryer that runs on propane that I used occaisionally for catering. It has been working fine for a few years, but the last 2-3 times, we are having a problem with flames coming forward inside the unit, heating up the “cool zone” and shooting out the gap in the door! Since I don’t know where to get asbestos underwear, I should probably fix the fryer! It seems to work fine otherwise. Any thoughts?

  60. I have 3 Comstock Castle 2941sf all bought new this year. At festivals these things will run fine all day but at night the main burner shuts off. I can relight immediately but the main burner soon shuts off again. Each one of them will do it and they each do it intermittently. Can humidity affect performance??? Maybe a dumb question but it seems coincidental enough to ask.

    • Hi Lisa,

      That is a new one on me. So I called Comstock Tech Support and they say that high humidity can effect the hi limit. If moisture gets into it it can short it out causing the unit to shut down. My question is when the burner shuts down does the pilot go out too? Also do you have a regulator on the propane tank and the fryers?

  61. I need a wiring diagram for an Imperial ifs 40 deep fryer

  62. Walter N. Hughes

    Hello I have a dean fryer purchased about one month ago was working great now can’t get the gas pilot light to light does this unit have some sort of battery that I need to look for if not just where does it get it’s voltage from 1.7 volts it’s a propane fryer model # SR142GP
    Serial # 1006MAO385 Thanks

  63. have an imperial natural gas fryer. has worked fine for two months, now pilot stays lit but main burner flames go out after about 2 hours. won’t come back on until next morning. can come in and turn it on works fine for about 2 hours again then burners out and pilot is on. any suggestions? thanks


    • Hi Jorge,

      There is no reset button on that unit. It has an auto reset hi limit. That means when the oil cools down it will automatically reset it’s self. It is located right next to the thermostat. You may have to remove the bracket that they are attached to get to it.

      If the hi limit is tripping out it is most likely because the thermostat is defective (running wild) causing the oil to over heat and tripping out the hi limit. If you need the thermostat you can find it here.

  65. problem with BG24 cecilware propane griddle not enough pressure going thru flames are really low ? clean them out also have propane. help does anyone know who can fix it anywhere close to bridgeport ct?

  66. I have a MagiKitchn lp fryer that is used at outdoor festivals and everytime its used it produces black soot out of the flue and now you can see flames coming out of the flue. I took the burners out and blew them out and hosed out the burner tubes and flue and that helped for a short amount of time. Is there an adjustment for something else that needs to be done to correct the problem.

    • Hey Andy,

      Sorry for the delay I was off for a couple of days.

      Has this been this way since you have had it? Was it always LP or was it converted?

      The reason I ask is because the wrong orifices may have been put in it. If the orifice is to large it will allow to much gas to flow through causing a yellow flame which causes the sooting problem.

      Let me know what the model and serial number are and the altitude you are at and I can check to see what size orifice is needed for the unit.

  67. Hi. I have a Pitco 14DIS drop in fryer. The piolt wont stay lit at all. I have already changed the tjermopile, Safety valve and the pilot( because we broke the head off). I have also jumped out the Hi-limit and it still wont go on. Any ideas?

  68. i have cecilware fms40, the pilot is lit, when i turn on the thermostat . the pilot still will not stay lit, i try connect hi-limit one wire with the other wire, same problem. Thanks a lot.

  69. Hi, I have a similar problem as Bob with my US Range LPG Fryer. I have replaced all four components, but the pilot still goes out as soon as the thermostat is turned on. Is there a wiring diagram available?

    Thanks, Don

  70. Hi
    I just purchase a used Imperial SF40 fryer. The Pilot knob is stuck in Pilot and does not turn in any way. Is there a way to clean this or fix it? or my only solution is to buy a new combination valve?
    Thanks for all your help

  71. i have a petco brand 2 decks electronic w/gas deep fryer, the right side is not working. I just need an estimet.

  72. hi .i have frankford fryer that wouldn’t turn on, the pilot is on ..but it still would start up

    • Hi Andrea,
      It could either be the combination safety valve or the thermostat. If it is a millivolt system to check the thermostat remove the wires from it and touch them together. If the burner fires then you know it is the thermostat that is bad. If it does not fire then it is more than likely the combination safety valve that is bad.

  73. Pleasse…I from Peru, I need a good gas control valve..But I need some one who help me for to choose one ..
    I need a valve with spark plug, burn indicator and pilot….Those valves are for fryers…..Please help me

  74. My fryer model is moffat.
    Half year ago the fryer does not work,I change a thermostat and it works.
    Now, pilot works well and thermostat some times works, some times not, for example, if temperature is setup 360F, after cooling down, the fryer fails to heat again some times.And there is a little oil leak from valve( I guess).
    I do not know thermostat can be wrong again just half year? Or it related with the oil leak?

    Thanks Peter

  75. hi i have a 4 burnner pitco fryer,, its worked on propane gas,,, i have 3/4 inch gas piped in to it,,,,, my problem is when i put on gas main flame for first 4-5 seconds i have a great blue flame after this it looks like it drops power and the flame turns to an orange clour,,, hence the recovery on the oil is not as quick this way,,, and can have an effect on the quailty of the food,,, can you help…..

    • Hey Chris,

      Sounds as though the pressure regulator is defective. Like it is slowly closing after the burners are lit.
      Try adjusting it. Just take the cap off of it and back out the screw a little bit to see if the flame will increase.

  76. Hey, Thanks for all your help but I have one more question. I have noticed a shuttering sound when my Comm, LP gas fryer comes on and noticed flame just above the orifice at the burner air intake on two of the three burners. I have cleaned the burners and the baffels and my orifice’s are clean the only thing left is the gas valve. I have a nanometer on the gas manafold going to the burners that was reading 7.0 I re-adjusted the gas valve down to 4.0 and the shuttering stopped. what should the inches of water column be on the manafold comming out of the gas valve? have we fixed it?

  77. i have Pitco commercial fryer. that is not working so well. i had change the thermopile, but still not fixed the problem………. i started everything fine, it get light up and gas is burning, oil got warmer. but 5 or 10 mins later it shut off everything. and some lucky days it works for whole day, without automatic shut off. do you have any ideas with this situation

  78. deep fryer pilot coming on then when u turn too turn on the pilot goes off

  79. I have a pitco 14rs. It has been sitting dormant for 2 years in my kitchen.

    The pilot will light, but as soon as you stop holding the pilot in the flame goes out. We bought a new thermopile 2 years ago, no luck… I am stumped as what it could be. I took the wires out to bypass the high safety switch, no luck. I can’t tell if the pilot knob is stuck by grease in the gas valve.

  80. Just replaced the thermostat for my IMPERIAL IFS-40 deep fryer. The pilot light will stay lit but soon as
    I turn the thermostat to turn it on, the pilot light goes out. Would I now have to replace the Hi limit or the thermopile???? Please advise… thank u in advance

    • Hi Iggy,

      Usually when this happens the unit is wired wrong. If you look on the side of the gas valve there is a wiring diagram that will show you where the wires are supposed to attach. There should also be one on the door. If you do not have either let me know and I can fax or email you one.

  81. working on an older model hobart milivolt system (nat gas) …after the pilot lights, i imediately let go of the button and it stays lit. it’s barely getting flame to the pilot… but yet it stays lit. after moving to the on position and turn on the t-stat…nothing happens ????

  82. I have a dean deep fryer I change the themo and test the hi limit but still can’t get the poilt to light

  83. I have an American Range AF45 and need some help to fix it. The biggest problem I have is that I’m not exactly sure what the problem is. So, here is what is giong on. The pilot turns on but the wiring from the thermostat gas knob fell off and I need help rewiring it. Anything you can do to help? Thank YOu

    Mobile food truck in desperate need

  84. I need a wiring diagram for an American Range AF45…

  85. Hi there,
    We have a bank of four pitco electric fryers, i think the model number is e14bs (fe14bs-couvy) but it is very hard to make out due to the age of it. on one of them the probes tend to fail (the last one only lasted 3months and is barely used), it says prob on the screen, but will sometimes start up fine then say prob. One of our other fryers seems to boil (we use shortening) although temp is only 189 degrees celsius. The other two work like a charm. I have a few spare probes but at 180 each the costs start adding up, i also have two replacement hi limits. I would just like to know if there is a way to test the hi limits and find out what causes the temp probes to fail, and also why the other one ‘boils ‘. Also if you know where i can find user, service and parts manuals for this fryer. Thanks!

    • Hey Luke,
      It sounds to me like you have multiple issues. You may not have a probe problem but a control board issue for both the probes going out and the boiling problem.
      My suggestion is to call Pitco Tech Support and go over these issues with them. Have your model and serial number ready when you do because they will not talk to you with out them. Call them at 603-225-6684 and ask for Tech Support.

  86. G’day

    we have AD series frymaster and work fine but sometimes in the middle of service it will drop temp and take for ever to get back up to speed, burner still goes but want heat up quick

    • Hi Luke,
      Is the burner still burning at the same velocity as when you first started it? If it has dropped it may be that the combination safety is not opening all the way. This could be caused by the thermopile not putting out enough millivolts. That is where I would start. Change it and see if this improves the operation. If it does not I would change the combo valve.

  87. I have a Masterbuilt LP deep frier. It takes hours to heat ten quarts of oil to 350 degrees. Is there anything I can do?

  88. Have a Elite Imperal 40# propane gas fryer.. Ran out of propane the other day, got bottle filled, but now gas won’t come thriough to pilot when depressed to light.. Gave plenty of time to clear line but seems like no gas is being allowed through? Took off supply from fryer, getting gas through regulator at tank to the fryer?? Only a year old but could it be gas valve? Nothing in trouble shooting to deal with this other than turning on gas tank or deopressing pilot long enough which I have… Any help appriciated..

    • Hi Bobby,

      It could be that when you filled the tank that some debris got into the pilot orifice. Disconnect the gas tube from the bottom of the pilot and drop out the orifice and make sure the hole is not blocked. This sometimes happens because most gas line have some debris in them.

  89. Hi,
    I have an Avalon gas donut fryer that was working fine until one day I changed the oil and accidentally touched the sensor. Now when frying donuts at 400 degrees, every time I drop in the donuts the temps drops down to 350. So I would have to wait for the temp to go back up to 400 again in order to do another batch. If it’s one of the mention problem, where can I get the spare part. Thank you in advance

    • Hey Zack,
      Sounds as though the thermostat has become weak and is not coming back on when it has that 7-10 degree temp drop. I’m not sure what thermostat it uses. If you could take a look at it and maby get some numbers off of it we may be able to get what you need.


    • Hey Larry,
      Does that unit have an auto reset or manual reset hi limit? It does sound as though the hi limit is tripping out. That is the only thing that would shut down both the burner and pilot at the same time.
      You can test the hi limit by connecting the hi limit wires together (by passing the hi limit) if the burner continues to burn then it is defective.

    • Larry,
      Just a reminder do not leave the hi limit by passed. With out that the oil could over heat and catch fire.

  91. Hi: I have a gas fryer Pitco 40C SS. I replaced the limit switch and the thermostat. Two months ago i replaced the thermopile The pilot light will stay on but the burners will not ignite. What do you think the problem is?

    • Hi Michae,
      Could be either the thermostat again or the combination safety valve. If you remove one of the wires from the thermostat and touch it to the other wire on the thermostat and the burners fire then you know it is the thermostat. If it still does not fire then the combination safety is going to be the issue.

  92. Hi!

    Was just googling around to see what’s wrong w my fryer. I’m not too sure what make it is but when I hold the pilot the gas flows and it lights up, however when I realise the pilot, the gas cuts off and it won’t light otherwise. What do you reckon is the problem? Also, I hope you’ve had a wonderful christmas!

  93. Hi I have a cifs40 gas imperial fryer
    Everytime the flames kick in . There s alot of smoke
    And flames that shoot out of the back of the fryer where the
    Fumes are released . Pls tell me what the remedy is .

  94. I have an Avalon fryer mod# EADF24G the on/off switch blew a while back so I replaced with a like switch, since then the pilot would go out, so I replaced the thermopile and now at times goes out then works fine. I checked the hi-limit with a continuity meter and it read good. Any ideas?

    • Hi Joseph,
      Sounds like the thermopile is not staying hot enough. Make sure it is as far into the flame of the pilot as possible. Also check to see if the pilot flame drops down when the burners kick on. If it does try adjusting the flame a little higher. If it still reacts the same way I would recommend replacing the regulator it may not be letting the proper amount of gas through. That is the least expensive way to start. If it continues you may have to replace the combination safety valve

  95. Hello,

    I’ve just leased a furnished restaurant and am having a problem with my Pitco single well, double basket fryer. It works OK, but has a very loud high pitched whine that is driving us all crazy. We’ve had the gas company check the gas flow and it’s fine. It whines no matter the temperature setting, usage or kitchen temperature. We think it may be haunted :). Any help would be appreciated.

  96. I have a Dean fryer that is giving me fits, after bring the oil temp to 400 degrees when I drop in a bag of fries the oil temp drops to low to properly cook the fries. The fryer always comes up to temp, flame looks good, oil temp matchs control setting, but this problem continues to happen. This fryer used to work right but now it doesn”t. What should I be looking for?

  97. We recently installed the 3rd deep fryer at the local Kiwanis club. In the process we went to new quick coupling hoses and a minifoe system for the deep fryers. The system operates on LP and up till this time – operated smoothly. The fryers ignite smooth and burn steady however, after they start the reheat cycle (usually takes about 10 or 20 minutes) we are getting allot of flames on the back side of the burners. I have changed out all the LP regulators, and replaced all the vent tubing from the cooker all the way to the top of each chimney. On the manifoe I used 1/2″ black iron from regulator to the manifoe. Each deep fryer operates at 35,000 BTU. The flex hoses are standard LP/NG hoses for with an internal ID of 1/4 inch. Why would these things work perfectly on the initial light but, blow flames back on re-ignition to keep the oil hot?

  98. Imperial Nat gas fryer replaced thermopile last June as you suggested now all of a sudden pilot stays lit but when knob is turned to 350 degrees it won’t ignite and burners don’t come on. Help!!!

  99. I have tristar fryer
    Pilot light is not working n can see not even gas supply
    Any help is appreciated

  100. Hi,

    I have a pitco fryer that the pilot remians lit and gas ingites and heats up after a short while the everything shuts off. I replaced the thermostat and the problem is the same. Could it be the high limit?

  101. Hi,

    I have a Pitco sg14-s, earlier today the frialator began to bubble and pop (much as it would when first heating up new oil). Since the oil had been changed earlier today I figured it might have not been heated up yet and thought nothing of it. It did this periodically for about 5 minutes. A few minutes later the oil went from calm and normal to a full boil in a matter of seconds. I immediately turned off the burner and backed away however 30 seconds to a minute later the oil was no calmer I went back in and cut the pilot light and the oil began to settle within 15 seconds. It has been off (no pilot) for the past 4 hours and upon reinspecting it I noticed that the oil went from almost max to below minimum.

    My theory is that last night during the cleaning they didn’t let it cool properly before beginning, they heat shocked it and caused a crack. However that wouldn’t explain the boiling unless the crack was in the heating tube and caused a direct heat to the oil as well as potentially a grease fire in the tube(which would also explain the continuous boil despite the burner being off).

    we are currently testing with water to see if we can spot the leak (I drained the oil to prevent a mess , plus water should slip through a crack more easily and be more noticeable when leaking) but I was wondering if you had any other ideas on what the problem might be.

    Also, if this turns out to be the problem is there any way to replace the heating tube or would we simply need to purchase a new frialator?

    • Hey Shawn,

      My first question is when they cleaned the fryer did they use water to clean it? Second if they did was all of the water out of it before it was filled with oil? I have seen this happen when there is water in the oil. The oil will bubble and pop if water is present. It probably went to full boil because water will boil faster than oil and it continued after you shut it off because it takes time for the water to cool.

      This is only a guess on my part. I have seen the oil in a fryer explode when there is water in it. If this happened you are very fortunate that it did not erupt out of the fryer like a volcano.

      Let me know what you find out.

  102. Hi,

    I have a Royal Fryer and the problem is that it just turns off, it is lit and gas ignites.
    if you could please have a look or give us instructions on how to fix it, we would really appreciate it. Our business depends on that fryer.

  103. We have a problem with our Entree fryer (brand name) not turning off when the dial is turned to off. This has happened 2-3 times over the last 6-8 months. If it doesn’t self-correct, we turn off the gas. The next day it would work fine. Any ideas?

    • Hi Jack,

      Not knowing what controls an Entrée fryer has I will assume it is a millivolt system. If this is correct it may be that the combination safety is just slightly sticking open every now and then. The next time it happens try taping on the side of the combo valve and see if it stops. If it does then you should change the combo valve.

  104. i have a commercial fryer – 2 bay – it has a filtration pump that does not work – can you offer any troubleshooting help ?
    Thank You

  105. Hello,

    Great site here ! I tinker a bit with my equipment just enought to get me in trouble ! lol

    Got a Pitco SG 14 been running fine 2 years . THe other night it began blowing back flames from tubes up the front vents? burning a spot on flat front of fryer. Tried geting into tube/burner area and blowing out jets with air. same deal, thinking some carbon built up. Problem is it is the first tube right behind the combo valve and can’t get at it to make sure nothing is blocking the flow of gas. Any thoughts or does it sound like I need to take off whole valve. But once off how will I know if it is a jet or just clogged jets.

  106. Hello,

    I appreciate you sharing your expertise with the community and would like your input on a problem I have. I have a pretty old Deep Fryer and do not know the model number. The name plate is worn away and I would estimate that the unit is at least 15 to 20 years old. The pilot will not light at ALL. I push the button, but don’t hear any gas flow. Any idea on what the cause may be? How should I go about troubleshooting? Thank you.


  107. hi i have a pitco frialator 35c the pilot goes out when release the button i change the thermopile already. how can i check if it the high limit or the safety valve thank you

    • Hey Tonny,

      Sounds like the hi limit is open. Just take one wire off of it and attach it with the other wire. Then try to light the pilot. If it stays on then you will need to replace the hi limit. If it does not then the combination safety valve is probably bad.

      If you need either of them we have them in stock. We would need the model of the fryer to get you the right parts because Pitco use two different controls in the units.

  108. I have a pitco and it lites and burners but when it reaches temp it shuts off pilot and all. What do you think?

  109. Garland fryer …flames on1 burner shoots straight up to front vents not into tubes and causes smoke and burned out thermostat . Tried to clean ….but no luck….what kind of adjustment do you suggest….HELP/

  110. I have a large deep fryer that does not have a thermostat. I would like to install one to help regulate the temperature. Do you have any tips on how to do this? Where do I get the parts I need?

    • Hi Stevie,

      I need some more information to be able to help you.
      Brand name of the fryer, a model number and serial number if possible.
      With that information I will be able to find the proper part for you.

  111. As I stated before, this fryer is not one that has a thermostat. It is a King Kooker 30-Inch Dual-Burner (KKDFF30T) Outdoor Propane Frying Cart. It has LP hoses and regulator (type-1 connector).

    We have turkey barns, which have propane stoves. They are thermostat regulated. Would it be the same concept?

  112. Hello I have a Keating nat gas deep fryer worked good then now when it calls for the burner tubes you hear a click and the pilot goes out. Any help on this? Thanks

  113. Hey
    i have a pitco gas 40 lbs. I can light the pilot and ignite the flames. But after about 5 minutes everything just shuts off..any suggestions?? thanks.

  114. hi
    Im opening a food truck and i just got everything in a run, propane was just run my self, witch is ran from a 30lb tank through a regulator then pipped in to the equipment, i have a table top double burner that works just fine so i know the gas lines i ran work, but i have 2 deep fryers, one is 70lb fryer and a 40lb fryer which i cannot light, the pilots wont light and wen i turn the thermostat valve on bother the fryers just to see if i hear the gas coming out and i hear nothing, so my question is do my commercial deep fryers have built in regulators? and if so is the problem that im running 2 regulators? if not then any idea why im not getting gas to them? its extremely frustrating i keep running into problems with my truck. can you please help me out?

  115. yes i bought LP fryers i can give you the make and model if you need them?

  116. Hey

    I have a older Cecilware double basket gas fryer and it works good if i keep it under 325 but as soon as i put the temperature any higher it will go that temp but when the main burners turn off the pilot light goes out as well. under that temperature the pilot stays lit not sure what to do thanks for any help

    • Hey Richard,
      Sounds as though the hi limit is tripping out. It could be weak from age. Not knowing the model of the unit does it have a red reset button and do you have to reset it to be able to light the pilot again?

  117. i have two dcs gas fryers both are working good alone but one blows the other out when i try to use both at the same time

  118. I have ifs-40, IS it normal that stared to leak oil after 6 months?

  119. Hi,
    I just replaced a gas valve on a fryer because the old one leaked gas around the on/off /pilot knob and would occasionally flame up just a little. Now, when the burner ignites, there is a constant surge of gas to full power and then almost off at about one second intervals. I tried a different propane bottle and purchased a new regulator. I think the burner is rated at about 111,000 btu. The new regulator is rated at 200,000 btu. What might be wrong?

  120. Hi, I have a pitco 40c+ss (LP). I’m having trouble starting it up. I’m able to light the pilot. While its on the pilot position the flame is strong, but then on the On position it dwindles but stays on, Is that normal…. 2nd quest: While on the ON position I turn the temp knob and nothing happens. Can u Please help.. Randy

  121. I have a American Range AF45 Deep fryer. I am unable to turn the Pilot knob. It’s in the off position and it won’t move. I tried depressing the knob and turning it, I tried pulling the knob out and turning it, neither worked. I even removed the knob and put a pair of vise grips on it to turn it and that didn’t work either. I tried turning it clockwise and counter clockwise. What am I missing?

  122. I have a sir lawrence fryer… pilot stays lit, burner kicks on but then a noise like old radiator and blows all flame out. Read your above suggestions but do not see a similar problem.

  123. Hey

    we just purchased a Commercial Garland Deep Fryer and we installed all the propane Lines good..We tried to Ignite the Pilot Light But we aint getting Propane to it at all..I have checked all connections and everything looks good..Just not getting Propane to the Pilot..Would you know what can be wrong with this Deep Fryer..

    • Hey Peter,
      When you got the fryer was it set up for propane or natural gas? If it was natural and you put propane to the combination safety valve the pressure more than likely blew out the inside of the valve.
      If it is already set up for propane then it could be that the combo valve is defective.

      Was this purchased new?

  124. I have a pitco double natural gas deep fryer that seems to have a problem. When I tried to turn on the fryer the ignite won’t lit, I don’t know if it is the thermostat or the thermopile causing problem. This is my first time operating the deep fryer and so I am really clueless of what is going on. Can you please help. Am really appreciate you taking the time help the community.


    • Hi Holly,
      If you are trying to light the pilot and when you release the button the flame goes out it sounds as though the thermopile is bad.

  125. hi,

    I have problems with my fryers they are around 8-10 years ..pitco they light up but after 10 or 20 min they go off piliot goes off too.
    I used propane since they get use on the road a lot I use the regulators that are adjustables.
    what regulators do you recommend.
    thanks for any feed back..

  126. Hi
    I just bought two deep fat counter top fryers on an online auction. When I went to pick them up they didn’t have any way to tell what make they are so that I can change them from Natural gas to LP. I took out an orfice and it didn’t have any numbers on it. It is a five burner commercial fryer with a rodger shaw control valve and hold three small baskets. Can you please help?

  127. I have an AF fryer. deep cleaned. Pilot started, does the fryer have to have oil in it and on sensors to fire up the burners ? When I switch the thermostat dial on no gas goes to burners.


    • Hi David,
      Sounds as though you may have one of two problems. Either the thermostat or the combination safety are defective. The easiest way to find out is to jump out the thermostat. If it fires then you know it is the thermostat that is bad. If it does not then the combo valve is bad.
      It does not need oil in it to fire.

  128. Hi,

    I have a older Pitco fryer that has no hi limit switch. The problem is the fryer does not shut off at the temp that is set on the thermostat. Would you replace the thermostat and sensor going into the tank?
    Thank you,

    • Hi Jim,
      Yes you should replace the thermostat asap because if the oil reaches 400 degrees or more it will explode into flames. Oil fires are the worst! If there is a plug in the side of the tank where you can put a hi limit I would advise you do that also.
      I do not know which thermostat you have but you can find it on etundra.com

  129. Have a propane fryer what can I clean the burners with ??
    The propane doesnt flow evenly . Plzz help Janet

    • Hi Janet,
      The burner holes probably have rust in them. My suggestion is to find a drill bit just the size of the holes and run the bit through all the holes. Once you have done that make sure you empty the junk out of the burner.

  130. Hi,

    I have a commercial fryer and after cleaning it this morning. I turned it back on to use this afternoon and it came to a rolling boil and the gauge was only at 350. I turned it off quickly…this is the temperature we normally use for cooking and we cleaned it the way we have for two years and this time it is acting up. Once it was shut off…it slowed slightly and then went back to a rolling boil…it has since stop…I don’t know what to do…what could it be?

    • Hi Tammy,
      Quick thinking on your part. That could have caused a verry bad fire.
      Sounds as though the thermostat and the hi limit have both failed. The thermostat is runnin wild causing the oil to over heat. The hi limit that which is the safety for just a case as this failed to shut the unit down.
      You will need to replace both.
      If you need help you can call Tundra at 800-447-4941 and any of the sales people can help you get the correct parts you need. Be sure to have the brand name and the model and serial number when you call.

  131. Hello,

    I have a lightly used Dean Decatholon series fryer. The problem is that the fryer will fire up fine and reach a temp of around 200 degrees and then shutdown. The pilot will stay lit and when I press the hi limit reset switch it will fire up immediately and then repeats with another shutdown. Any ideas?


  132. The jaws of a pipe wrench are usually tightened to a particular width with a pair of knurled thumb nuts that ride on a threaded shaft. When the wrench is opened to the desired distance, the thumb nuts are tightened.

  133. I have a customer that had a thermocouple snapped off inside of the fryer last week. It was the result of one of my service technicians working inside of the fryer to clean it. I felt obligated to have it repaired so I authorized them to have their service company replace the broken thermocouple. The bill just came in and it was for $445.75 and I am thinking that someone is way out of bounds for charging that much to replace a thermocouple. What would you think? it that an extreme charge for a thermocouple? When I balked at the charge they said the service charge was roughly $200 and the parts were over $200. REALLY $200 for a thermocouple???

    I don’t want to be throwing a fit over this charge if it seems reasonable but that is almost half of what I can find a used fryer for.

    • David,
      There are two sensing bulbs in the tank, one is for the thermostat and the other is for the hi limit safety. If either of those were broken then either the thermostat or the hi limit would have had to be replaced because the thermocouple that is attached to them is not a replaceable part. So that may be why his bill was so high.
      A thermostat can run as much as $250.00 and a hi limit can run as much as $175.00.

  134. I have a FRYMASTER FRYER MODEL MJCFSD – It turns on and shoots out a flame and then works fine for a time, then all of a sudden it acts like it doesnt want to get hot enough to fry stuff — HELP!

    • Jon, I will need more information to determine the underlying issue. Can you get me a serial number and a more in depth description of the issue?

  135. i have an imperial f40. i replaced the thermostat and the thermopile.my burner will still not fire.pilot stays light all the time.will these things light with no oil in fryer?and do you think its the valvue or high limit? thanks rick

    • Sounds as though the combination safety valve is bad. It has two little solenoids in it, one for the pilot and one for the main gas to flow through. Sounds like the pilot one is working but the main one is not opening. You will have to replace the combination safety. Tundra does stock that as a part #41-425 at a cost of $175.57.

  136. I have a Magikitchn MK42 deep fryer that has major sooting problems. It also shoots flames out the exhaust every time it kicks in. The soot builds up so badly that I have to take the burners out once a week and scrape out the shafts and vacuum them clean. It’s getting to be a bit of a burden to do every Sunday on my only day off. So, at first I thought it was the valve unit and had that examined. It would only do a maximum WC of 6″ so I had that professionally changed and set at around 10″. The flame was still burning orange so they tech dropped the bar with all the orifices on it as far down as it would go and that temporarily helped. The gas/air flow ratio seemed better and the sooting slowed down. But now it’s as bad as ever and I can’t lower that bar any further. So the only other thing I’m left to wonder about is if the orifices are too big and are letting too much gas out. I know the regulator on the line is good and I know I’m getting 10″ WC, but the soot and flame is still out of control. Do you know what orifice size this fryer should need? It is placed in a food truck in a city at 26 ft altitude. Thank you, Jacob

    • Hey Jacob,
      It sounds as though there may be a blockage in the flue. If there is it would have the symptoms you describe. With a blockage the air flow would be restricted causing the soot problem. With a restriction it would also cause a gas build up in the tubes so when it fires it ignites the gas in the tubes causing it to shoot flames out the top of the flue.
      Hope this helps.

  137. I have a Gold Medal 5099 fryer it comes up to temp then shuts off pilot light and all. What do you think it could be?

    • On your Gold Medal it could be one of two problems. The thermostat may be running wild causing the hi limit to trip out. I am not sure if there is a combination safety in that unit because I can not find a break down on it. If there is it could be that it is defective. If the coils in side of it are weak then it could cause the problem. If you have to wait to relight the pilot then I would say the thermostat is bad.

  138. Hello,

    I am a server at an airport restaurant and I work in a very tiny kitchen with a deep fryer that’s making sounds that are very loud banging noises like a car backfiring. The cooks say this has been happening for well over a year off and on. A repair person came to repair it and said it was some sort of relay problem causing gas to build up inside and then it would suddenly release all the gas at the same time making the loud sound. They assure me that it’s not a safety issue, but when I asked the repair person what would happen if to much gas got built up inside because of this relay delay issue his eyes got really big and he said then you would have a problem. After assuring me his repair had fixed it and it wouldn’t happen anymore, the very next day it was backfiring five times in a row.

    So, the question is have you ever heard of this before and does it sound like something to be concerned about leaving on in this condition? Sorry I am don’t have more technical information.

    Thanks for any help!


    • Hey Jessica,
      That does not even sound right to me. It sounds to me like the main gas valve my be leaking by and building up gas in the burner tubes or there may be a blockage in the flue causing a gas build up. Check the flue and make sure it is clear. Either way it is not safe! If it is the gas valve leaking by it can only get worse. I would have another service company check the fryer.

  139. Hi,
    Great website! You helped me replace my fryer parts today, but I am still having a problem. I have an imperial fryer (unsure of model number as it is rubbed off and illegible) 3 burner tube style that runs on natural gas. Today I replaced the thermostat and the high limit which both came with new thermopiles. Before replacing, fryer flames would not shut off automatically and then a few days later, pilot would not light at all. After replacing said parts, the pilot comes on and stays on, the fryer burners ignite, but it still will not turn off when the appropriate temperature is reached. What do I do next? Thank you in advance!


    • Hi Martha,
      Sounds like it could be wired wrong or you received a defective thermostat. Is this just a single pot fryer? What type of combination safety is in it? I mean is it a Robertshaw, Honeywell or White Rogers. Which ever one it is would determine how it is wired. Tundra can provide a wiring diagram for which ever valve you have even with out a model number.

  140. I have this fryer counter top commercial don’t know make tag burned off . Had this problem when burner would shut off would back fire and blow pilot out.mi changed tstat, hi limit and gas valve and cleaned burners. Now it back fires, blows one or no tube out( 4 tubes 2 burners can send pic ) then makes gurgling sound but stays running. Also turned up pilot flame so pilot now does not go out usually. Thanks for the help

    • Usually when a fryer has blow back (back fires) it is because there is a build up of gas in the burner tubes. This usually is caused by a blockage in the flue. So check to see if there is something blocking the flue.

  141. It is a single pot fryer, with a Honeywell safety I believe. When I reconnected the wires, I went fire for wire, one part at a time. I’ve been told that I was shipped the wrong parts, but the part numbers that I ordered are the numbers that imperial gave me. 1175 and 1177. Are there other parts that go to the older fryer models? This one has to be at least 10 years old…

    • Hi Martha,
      You did indeed get the right parts. Because it will not shut off at the set temp it sounds as though you received a defective thermostat. Not to worry though that does happen on occasion unfortunately. You will have to replace it again.

  142. i have a dcs frg324d donut fryer the temp will be all over the place but mostly it will not get hot enough it will heat to about 200-300 degrees and not go higher sometimes by turning it off and on it will fire up but sometimes it will sit for an hour or more at lo temp and then go up to set temp i tried to get a new thermostat but parts are no longer available is there another fryer i can get parts for and retrofit it it is in good shape it looks like a 1/4 stuff box for the fittings

    • Hi Jim,
      There may be a couple of ways to approach this. If you can get the numbers off of the thermostat or take some pic’s of it I may be able to find you what you need. Also does it have a snuffing box that screws into the side of the tank? If it does you will have to measure it to see what size thread it is.

  143. my deep fryer keep having smoke and a little fire coming from the top, i tried vacum it out but it only help for a little while, how do you properly clean the top of the deep fryer?

    • Hi Brenda,
      Have you cleaned out the burner tubes and the flue? Sounds like you may have something in the flue. That is what usually causes flames and smoke. Check out that flue and give it a good cleaning. You can use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the junk. Also make sure there is no grease build up in it. If there is you can use a scraper to scrape it off and then suck it out with the vacuum.

  144. I have a double pitco frialator. The pilot won’t light on either side. It seems odd that both safety valves should fail. Gas supply seems fine. Is there any way to test the safety valves before I get elbows deep in the the guts of this fryer?

    • Hi Miles,
      Sounds as though it may be the thermopiles that may be bad. If you have a millivolt tester you can check them. They should have a 750 millivolt reading. To test them the ends of them need to be heated of course and then touch the other end with one lead and go to the capillary or ground with the other lead if it is a single screw in thermopile. If it is the two lead type follow the same instructions except touch the leads from your tester to the two wires from the thermopile. If they are bad you can get what you need from Tundra direct or at etundra.com Part #41274 for the screw in type or Part#41273 for the two lead type.
      Hope this helps!

  145. The pilots won’t light at all, not that they won’t stay lit. which is not what I would expect if the thermopiles were bad.

    I put the dial in the ‘Pilot’ position, press it down, apply flame, the pilot doesn’t light. One of the pilots has a tiny flame that can barely sustain itself and won’t heat the thermopile, the other doesn’t produce any flame at all.

    Could I hold the lighter on the thermopile until it was producing enough voltage to open the gas valve and then see if the main burners would light? Are there other ways to test it?


    • Hey Miles,
      You can use a small propane torch to heat the thermopile. Now that you say you do not get gas at one of the pilots and barely enough for a flame on the other makes me think there is a blockage some where. I would start with the regulator because there is a screen on the inlet side of it. If it is plugged that could be causing the problem.
      (Has there been any gas line work in your area recently?) Disconnect the regulator and hook up the gas line direct and see if that helps.
      If it does not then I would say you may have two bad safety valves.

  146. Hi,

    I just read through several months of your comments to the various posters — thank you, you are providing great information for a product and an industry that doesn’t make equipment information readily available.

    I have run an old Imperial 35 for several years on propane in an outdoor setting. The rest. equipment guys around me don’t know much about propane, the propane guys don’t know anything about cooking equipment (they specialize in hi-pressure welding applications). I have learned that a 20lb tank is too small to allow for proper vaporization and that hi demand from the fryer will cause the tank to ice up and not deliver any gas. I have also learned that those standard single-body regulators sold for LP gas grills are not great and often slightly too high pressure for the fryer, sometimes the gas is delivered so quickly it blows the pilot right out.

    This year I purchased a new Vulcan LG500 Propane model. I set this up with a two-stage regulator and have been using a 100lb bulk tank. I have only used the fryer about 4 days this season and it worked flawlessly.

    Then a problem. I don’t believe it is the brand new fryer, but my propane supply. It was too difficult to tell if the tank was empty, but I believe there was still about 20-25 lbs of gas in the 100lb tank and the day before it ran great, frying 250lbs of hand-cut fries at a craft fair. The pilot lights and stays lit, when I turn the temp knob to 325 the pilot lowered, no burner ignition, and the “popping” of gas at the orifices, sometimes with a yellow flame appearing at the orifices. I swapped a 20lb tank for the 100lb tank, and it lit, but fired for only a couple of minutes and then shut off burners and pilot. A couple days later and with the 20lb tank the burners wouldn’t light at all, just the “popping”.

    I tried the 2-stage regular with my other fryer, works fine, ruling out regulator problem. My theory: the large tank won’t operate properly below a certain minimum fill, the small tank is just to small to work with this large-size fryer. Probably just need to get the large tank filled and all my problems are solved.

    So here is the second reason I’m writing: can you help me find the propane information and parts required to operate mobile equipment? For example, if I have a splitter, can I operate both fryers from the 100lb tank? How do you compare equipment gas requirements to tank vaporization/output? How do we convert btu/hr to pounds/gallons per hour? How can I know for sure what regulator to use and where can I get them? ‘

    Thanks, Luke in Vineland, NJ

    • Hi Luke,
      This chart should help you covert into what you need.
      You should be running at least a 3/4″ hose on both fryers. There should be no reason either a 30 lb. or 100 lb. bottle should not run both fryers. As you can see by the chart the ambient temperature has a lot to do with the pressure on either size bottle.
      If you are running a regulator at the tank you may not have to have one on each unit.
      I favor having a regulator on each unit it gives it more balance.
      If you are running a regulator like you find on a BBQ your not going to get what you need for the units.
      You should be running a commercial regulator. You can get them from Tundra Restaurant Supply (etundra.com) Part #+41-457.

  147. For the sake of posterity, the problem was that the gas jets for the pilots had become clogged with goo. Don’t know how it got down in there or why it didn’t burn off, but while checking for blockages I removed the pilot tubes to check for gas flow at the regulator, which there was and traced it back until I eventually found the clogged jets. Problem solved. Thanks for your help

  148. Hi, I’m working on a mk42 lp fryer , its a pitco. My customer says the fryer only goes down when they are busy, not when I am on site. The gas valve was previously not seating correctly so I changed that as well as the thermopile , my manifold press is 10.wc and my incoming pressure is 12″wc , my milivolt reading is great when I am there. My temperature is good and I do not have to reset the hi limit ,but the Burners and pilot drop out and can be re lit right away. I’m at a loss with this intermittent problem .

    • It may be that the pilot flame is dropping down to a low flame during use or the thermopile may not be far enough into the flame. Usually when the burners kick on the pilot flame will drop down a bit but if it drops to much it will not keep the thermopile hot enough to maintain the proper millivolts.
      If you find this to be the case just adjust the pilot up a little bit and see what happens.

  149. Hi,

    I have a dean sr 42 fryer that pilot will not light. I check high limit switch and thermopile both seem to be working fine. The fire dept came out and shut off gas because of a gas leak they thought. When we went to start fryer back up it would not light. I have a imperial range with same issue, burners will light but not oven pilot.

    • Hi Cash,
      You could have one of two problems. One, you may need to hold the button in longer to bleed out the air in the pilot tube.
      Two, because the gas had been shut off there may have been debris in the gas line that got into the pilot orifice and it is now blocked.
      If that is the case you will have to disconnect the pilot tube from the pilot and remove the orifice to clean it out on both of your units.

  150. Hello:
    I am from South America, in my town there is no this type of fryers; but I!l want make me someone. If you were so nice of show me the circuit and the model and brands of valves that you use.


    • Hi Jorge,
      Here is a wiring diagram for most common fryers.

      The parts you would need Depending on what gas type you have are:
      41-425 natural gas combination safety valve or:
      41426 propane gas combination safety valve
      42-524 Hi Limit
      42-515 Thermostat
      41-274 Thermopile
      41-362 Pilot Burner

      You can look at all of these parts on etundra.com

      Hope this helps!


      • Hi, when I click on file FRY009_18_1.jpg, I am not able to get it, said file is not longer there. is it possible please send it to me by E-Mail. Thanks

  151. what lp regulator is needed on a imperial deep fryer 42-50 lbs

  152. I wrote to you before on September 4. Thank you for the suggestion of the flue. I checked the flue and it is clear. I also vacuumed it all out to be sure. The flame and soot is worse than ever. The burner tubes now clog fully with soot in only 5 days of usage. And the flame sometimes swirls out the flue about two feet from the top. I’m almost to the point of chucking this thing out and buying a new fryer. But one last thing. When I was cleaning it today I took the time to take the orifices out and check them. The top of the orifice has 0625 stamped on it. So, I was trying to find some lp orifice charts online and none of them seem to think that this is the correct size. To recap, the unit is a MagiKitch’n MK42SM Fryer at 115,00 btu using LP gas. Can you confirm for me that the orifice size is incorrect or not? If so, do you know what size I need to get?

    Thank you again,

    • Hi Jacob,
      Sorry for the delay. I was doing some more research into your problem.
      The orifices that are in the fryer are 1/16″ which are rated at 115,000 btu which according to the manufacturer are the correct ones.
      Lowering the manifold may have caused you more problems. The way this works is the orifice is sized to the burner venture length. What happens is as the gas comes out of the orifice it creates a vacuum to suck in the proper amount of air for the gas air mixture.
      With the manifold lowered it may not be able to create the proper vacuum to get that mixture needed, so I would raise it back to it’s original position.
      Also talking with the manufacturer they said that unit needs to run a water column of no less than 11″. If you are at 10″ of water column they said you are not getting enough gas flow through the orifices to get the correct mixture or air to gas.
      If you set the water column at 11″ or above and it does not correct the problem you may have to increase the orifice size by 1/32″. You can do that by getting a 3/32″ drill bit and drilling them out. I recommend that you do the other things first and drill out the orifices as a last resort.
      By the way you may be able to save yourself some money on a service guy to adjust the water column. You may be able to rent a water column gauge from a local equipment rental place.
      If you are not sure how to use it let me know and I can walk you through it.

  153. I have a American Range Fryer. Pilot is lit but when you turn on the fryer only one of the 3 burners light. Sometimes the other two will light but as soon as it reaches temp shuts down only one come back on when needed.
    Thanks Bob

    • Hey Bob,

      Sounds as though you may have a weak combination safety valve. It is opening but not quite fast enough to allow enough gas through to ignite all the burners at the same time. Then it sounds as though once the combo valve gets a little warm it is not opening enough to allow enough gas for the burners to reignite.

      Let me know the manufacture of the combo valve and I can help you locate one.

  154. Alano Club of Courtenay purchased an new Imperial 40 lb fryer and it was installed in February 2012. Recently we sprung a leak in the basket coincidentally right above the pilot light area. We have been arguing with the company as it is under warrant but they refuse to budge and state we must have dry fired the system – which we definitely did not do! they even went as far as to say our commerical service company (who viewed the unit in person); were wrong. They will replace the basket but will not cover the labour. Can you advise if you have heard of anyone else having problems with a new system?

    • Hi Cindy,

      I have not heard of anyone having this problem.

      It sounds as though you may have a unit with a manufacturer defect. In the area where it is leaking it could be a defective weld. Is the service company that looked at it certified by Imperial to do their warranty work? If they are not find out who in your area is and have them evaluate the problem.

      Wish I could have been of more help.

  155. Hi,
    I have an Imperial fryer that is acting very strange. Everything seems to work properly except when we are in a rush and the fryer is working hard, it starts making a high pitched whine that resinates throughout the restaurant. The strange thing is that the sound stops when we open the door of the fryer. Gas valve maybe? Or dirty orifice?


    • Hi Taylor,
      That is a strange one. Opening the door will not effect the gas valve. It may be that the orifices need cleaning. When you open the door it actually allows more air flow into the burner compartment so it could be a sign that there is an orifice problem. Look on the orifice and you should see a number on it. Take that number to your local hardware store and they will be able to cross it to the drill size of the hole in it. You may not even need a drill, you should be able to insert the bit into the hole with your fingers to clear any debris that may be in them.

      • HI,

        Thanks for your response. The orifices are number 36. I picked up a number 36 drill bit from the hardware store the other day, but it is much larger than the orifice hole size. I assumed that the number on the orifice is wire size and that a drill bit of that size would be that same. Apparently, I was wrong. Is there a orifice to drill bit conversion chart somewhere that I could reference? (The hardware store people were clueless) Thanks,

        • Hey Taylor,
          The #36 orifice should be a .1065 drill size (which is considered wire size). Have you had this fryer long and are you running natural or propane gas.
          The #36 is a natural gas orifice and a #51 or 56 would be for propane.
          The larger the number the smaller the hole on an orifice.
          Imperial did use a #36 for natural and a #51 for propane from the factory.
          Hope this helps.

          • Hi,
            Well I am perplexed. The orifices have #36 stamped right on them but the hole size is defiantly not that big. The are natural gas fryers that we bought used a few months ago. I did end up replacing the gas valve on the fryer in question; it was acting finicky there were times that it would not fire. While doing the replacement, I removed the four cast iron burners and cleaned all of the holes with the #36 drill bit. The bit fit the holes on the burners perfectly and I was able to remove quite a bit of debris. The fryer seems to be working properly now and is getting to temp. within a reasonable time. Still confused about the brass orifices though… I will have to look closer and see if the number on them is not 56 which would explain the smaller size. Then will have to have a talk with my equipment supplier and find out why he sold us LP fryers when we needed natural gas!

            Thanks again for your help.

          • Tundra Restaurant Supply

            A #56 can be used for both Nat or LP. Keep in mind, some techs will drill an existing orifice.

  156. Hi, i have a frymaster 24g long john silvers series fryer that is boggling me.It is working almost all day then will fail to auto relight ( electronic ignition). You have to turn off the gas valve , and reset and it buzzes and relights and then works for 12 to 36 hours then repeats. The gas valve is new, i believe the hi’limit is too.Could it be the proofer or sail switch in the blower box? or loose wire? COULD it be the igniter? It ignites every time the temp drops and then shuts off when the temp setting is reached, its just periodically failing to relight then it shuts down until you reset it.

    • Hi Jacob,
      It sounds as though you may have an air flow problem. When the burners are on check to see if the flame is at an angle or straight up. It may be moving to much air causing the flame to be drawn away from the flame sensor thus shutting down the unit. There is an air gate on the blower assembly that may have for some reason come open to much and you may have to adjust it.
      Also check to make sure the sail switch is not getting hung up. The acuating switch can get worn over time and cause it to drag in the slot. If nessecery you may have to bend the arm a little to stop it from dragging.

  157. Hello,
    You helped me in the past with my thermopile issue. Thank you. Now I have a new problem. The pilot light stays lit, but when I turn my thermostat dial it makes an initial click and the burners will not fire up. Is it the thermostat?

    • I also have a hi-limit thermostat and oper.thermostat… which 2 wires do I touch to test my “thermostat?”

      Royal Fryer

      • Tundra Restaurant Supply

        Dan, it sounds like the t-stat is bad. If you want to test it, just put a jumper on the 2 terminals of the thermostat: if the t-stat opens the burner will light and it means you have a bad t-stat. However, if it doesn’t open, then the gas valve is bad and you will need to replace that. One side of the gas valve that is regulated by the t-stat is closed and will not open when the t-stat calls for gas to the burners.

        Hope this helps.

  158. please help i tested the thermocouple it works fine tested the hi-limit it is fine the termostat was no so i changed that my fryer now lites and heats the oil to the proper temperature (i checked with my thermometers on three different oil temps the issue i’m having is that when it gets to the desired temp and the burners shut off so does the pilot lite please help i am in desperate need of input asap

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      It sounds like you have a bad thermocouple, you might need to test it again and when you do, you will need a meter that reads in Millivolts and you’ll need to remove the leads from the Hi-Limit, to test it. If the thermocouple does not read at least 750 millivolts, then your thermocouple is bad. Feel free to contact me if you need further assistance. my contact info is 1-800-447-4941 x7277.

      Thanks Kevin

  159. Hi
    I have a DCS fryer that seems to work fine. However, I cant turn the pilot knob at all. It’s stuck pretty good. Could this be oil buildup? Needs to be cleaned out? It pushes in fine, but won’t turn.
    Thanks for your help

  160. Hi, I’ve got another problem with my Pitco 14R. I’ve got a candling problem. Little flames that come up off the jets when the fryer is off. I’ve replaced the combination gas valve and it was fine for a few days but now it’s back. This is also a double fryer and one has the problem, the other is fine. Any ideas?


    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      It sounds like carbon build-up on the burner. Try checking that and see if that helps you.

      • This link you provide goes to information about how to clean out an engine. Can you explain how this applies?

          • Perhaps I was unclear. The problem I’m having is that a small amount of gas is coming out of the combi valve when the thermostat is off even though I just replaced the valve. Little flames come up off the jet orifices, like candles (I can see it in the venturi space before the burner tubes.) If I turn the knob on the valve to the ‘Off’ position the flames go out. Once again, I just replaced the combi valve so it’s not that, unless I got a defective one from you guys.

          • Tundra Restaurant Supply

            Miles, I think it may be time to contact the manufacturer to see what they would recommend. If you share your model and serial number, we’d be happy to locate the information you need to get in contact with them.

        • Hi Miles, did you find a solution to the little flames off the orifice? I have the same problem on my pitco fryer. Any help would be appreciated.

          • Once again, responding for posterity. I found the answer to this problem. The valve on the thermostat had gotten dirty and was allowing a tiny bit of air to pass which kept the safety valve from closing completely. To fix this you can replace the thermostat or if you’re handy you can clean it out. Instructions below, proceed at your own risk.

            Remove the thermostat. Undo inlet and outlet tubes, unscrew from faceplate. You can leave the small capillary tube connected, just be careful with it.
            Remove the screw cap from the back. There are three small parts inside, a spring, a rubber valve and a small rod. Don’t lose them!
            Remove the parts and clean the surface that the valve seats against. I just used a clean finger. Don’t let anything fall into the hole.
            Put the parts back in, first the rod (upright, use needle nose pliers), then the valve and then the spring. The valve sits with the conical part facing up and the spring on top.
            Replace the screw cap and put the thermostat back in. You should have a working fryer.

  161. We just hooked up our dean sr162gn and it works great. However, about every 5 minutes it will start humming the most high pitch horrible noise. So bad I can hear it in next room. Gas guys say it is not on their ends of the gas lines. Any idea of what may be wrong?
    Thanks in advance!

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      It sounds like a faulty combi valve or thermostat, but we’d recommend calling Dean’s tech support to get more information: 800.551.8633. Good luck!

  162. Hello Greg ,
    I being reading your articles on trouble shooting deep fryers . Your information is very useful .I have a Cecilware FMP 65 that was converter to LP . Last year I drop it off to be refurbished and cleaned up . My local way moved away and did no complete the job . That leaves me to try to navigate all this . I cleaned up the fryer but the pilot would light and when I went to turn the thermostat the pilot goes out every time . I order a combination valve . Robert Shaw 700-406 . I replaced the combination valve but still having same issue . The old combination valve did not have a serial number . That is why I order the 700-406. The old combination valve has a wire that connects out of the valve connecting to the wiring harness . The combination valve does not have this wire . The box for the new valve states 24 volts . Should I have bought a millivolt combination valve ? To add to confusion there is a a diagram with the instructions that state a hydraulic combination valve is availabel that works with a thermostat and a thermopile . Did I buy the wrong valve ? In addition when using the LP conversotion kit I did not notice any difference in the holes of the diaphragm is this normal ?


  163. HI .

    I can turn on the fryer ,But it shut down only after 10 minutes and I think the oil is still not heat enough , I need to relight it when the oil temp is not hot at all..What can i do ?

  164. Even if I can relight the fryer ,IT shut down again

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Don, Do you mind sharing the make and model number of your fryer? We’re pretty sure it’s a thermostat or hi-limit issue, but we can give you better instructions with the make and model number.

  165. It’s a 14s pitco fryer and it works for over 10 or 15 years.. Thank you.

  166. I have a Pitco 45C that is about 4 years old and runs on natural gas.
    On 2 of the orifices, there are constant small candle like flames that will not shut off unless the pilot is turned off. As a result, the burners get clogged with soot and have to be cleaned everyday and flames shoot inside the cabinet because the burners are full of soot.

    How do I stop these 2 orifices from staying lit. I have 2 of these fryers and this is the only problem I had with these units.

    I have tried to adjust the oxygen mixing valve screw to no avail. Any other suggestions?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply


      It looks like you have carbon build up, or the gas valve is not shutting completely off. Sounds like gas is bypassing the valve somehow. We’d recommend contacting Pitco tech support directly. To see if they could give you further insight.


  167. I just purchased new 2 tri-star fryers with propane setup my problem is once get the pilot light lit and go to turn the thermostat on has soon has the thermostat clicks the pilot flame reduces almost to nothing and the burners never kick on

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply


      It sounds like a thermopile or thermostat problem. Try using the instructions above to test them.


  168. Tundra Restaurant Supply

    Hello all, we’ve been working on a video to help you all better DIY your fryer issues. Hopefully that will help with a lot of the issues we’ve been seeing on here – stay tuned!

  169. Hi does any one in the Detroit-Port Huron , Michigan area repair fryers? Mine is heating the oil up too much and occasionally the pilot goes out, thanks.

  170. I have a Pitco Frialator and a Dean gas fryers; came in this morning, drained & cleaned both, etc. , turned the heat up and within 20-30 seconds, they turn off.

  171. This is a good tip particularly to those fresh to the blogosphere.
    Simple but very accurate info… Many thanks for sharing this one.

    A must read article!

  172. I need some help!
    I have a Double Basket LPG fryer from ACE (china made) with 3 Batteries for the Sparks.
    One fryer stopped working a while ago, only starts sometimes, as I am not that busy I just used the other fryer.
    Now this one is giving me problems. Usually it starts fine 1st thing in the morning, heats up to the set temperature and shuts off as it should.
    BUT when the temperature goes down it doesn’t come on again, which means no CHIPS!
    Maybe after one or 2 hours it come on again.
    I replaced the batteries but no success.
    Is there anyone who can tell me what the problem my be ?

  173. Thank you very much for your reply!! Much appreciate

    The fryer has the Company name “ACE” printed on it so I though it was ACE trading in UK but they told me they don’t supply Gas fryers.
    I then looked online and found my fryer and knew it was made in China (I guess) for the past 2 weeks I try to get those parts (I am not even sure if this is the Problem) I contacted the Company in China asking for those parts but they told me I have to order a minimum of 500 pieces!!
    Like I said this f** fryer does not have a “normal” Thermostat fitted its all king of electronic and those 2 bimetal controllers which I think are the modern type of thermostat.
    If I cant get the parts there must be a way of converting this fryer into a normal fryer ??
    The third link you posted looks almost like the piece I am looking for? BUT it has to be the same Temperature which is 60* to 240*

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply


      It’s possible there is a way to convert it, but we’re not quite sure how. Your best bet, at this point, is probably to find a local restaurant equipment repair company and see what they can do. Best of luck to you!

  174. I have a VULCAN ECONOFRY EF-3. When u turn on thermostat it kills the pilot to where it’s barely lit. And the burners don’t kick on

  175. giving up ! I bought myself a 2nd hand Parry Table top fryer, only have a single tank with just 7l oil capacity (compare to my “old” double tank 18l x 2 ) but hope it will do the job ? NEVER again I buy made in CHINA!

  176. got my “new” fryer today and guess what looks like I wasted £350 for this fryer.

    I cant get it work, when I press the ignite button I will lit but when I release the button the Flame will go out (yes I was holding it for a long time) The high limit fuse or switch is out, is this normal ? I think the red button only come out when there is a fault ?

  177. I have an electric Wells F-67 dual fryer. I am always replacing the relay…could there be another problem

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Eva, it sounds like a voltage issue – surge or incorrect voltage coming into the unit. For model F-67, you should be at 240 volts.

  178. Many people here had a similar problem, where the pilot doesn’t stay and a faulty thermo couple was the possible problem. So I went a bought myself a universal thermo couple , replaced it myself (proud of me) and guess what, it worked again.
    Thanks for this site here and all the good tips and help I received. Hope I don’t have to come back here for help 😉

  179. Which brand is better a Pitco SSH55 or Frymaster MJ45? And why?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Esme, the SSH55 series has options for a computer or digital controller, and is all stainless. The base unit for an MJ45 is gas control. You’ll get more BTU’s on the MJ45, which is better for faster recovery time, but with all the bells & whistles Pitco has, that may be a better option for you. The question really is, will the MJ45 suit your needs?

  180. Guys can someone help me out .. anyway of repairing a hole in a fryer without removing it stripping and welding ? any assistance would be appreciated.

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Chris, we can’t think of anyway of doing this without removing the stripping and welding; however, if the fryer is less than five years old, the frypot itself is generally covered by the warranty.

  181. Hi i have a imperial Deepfat fryer when it lights after a month or so it builds up a lot of black suds can you tell me what is wrong

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply


      We have a couple of questions for you, so that we can make sure we give you a proper answer.

      1. What is it that you’re frying?
      2. Are you changing the oil using filter powder, boil out, etc.?
      3. Are you having similar issues with other gas equipment on site?

      It sounds like it could be carbon build-up, but wanted to see your answer the the top questions before being certain.


  182. I have 2 fryers that are leaking slowly from the welded edges, both from opositte sides but same place both.
    Is there anything I can do to fix them, or do I need to take them to the welder?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply


      You will have to have those welded to get them in working order again; however, generally the tank is covered under a 5 year warranty – parts only and labor not covered – but we’d definitely suggest looking into the warranty if the fryer is still under 5 years old.

  183. I have a 75lb imperial fryer and it appears that the wire that connects to the thermostat has been broken (probably due to careless wand use while filtering). Can that wire be fixed or does the entire thermostat need to be changed?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply


      It depends on what you mean by wire. If it’s one of the two terminals on top, then yes that can be repaired. You would just need a terminal, part 42300 or 42301. You would need to strip the wire & crimp the terminal on. If it’s the capillary tube, which attaches to the 5” bulb, it cannot.

  184. I have a Frialator 45c where the pilot will light, and stay lite. When the gas is on, the unit will function fine for a couple days. Then for not apparent reason, the pilot will remain lit, but when calling for heat, the burners will not ignite. When this call is made, the pilot will reduce in size to about half the height of the original pilot like it is starving for gas. Any suggestions?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply


      With the pilot at least staying lit, you can rule out the thermopile, but the answer really is that this is a phantom call (meaning, we’d need a bit more information to really give you solid advice). If we had to guess we’d says it’s likely the combination gas safety valve, but we’re curious as to whether you’re seeing gas pressure fluctuations with any of the other equipment on site?

      You can always call us and chat with our customer support team so that they can help you work through the issue too – just give us a call at 888-388-6372.

  185. I have an imperial IFS-40 model NPG fryer. When I light it the flames going into the burners are large and yellow not blue. They actually go not only into the burners but also over them and around the sides. I am worried about scorching my basin. What could be causing this and how do you fix it?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Joseph, do you have a regulator installed on the gas line?

    • Hey, I had the same problem! It was a build up of soot at the back of it, had to take it apart and clean it and was fine for a while, but the problem seems to have come back but theres no soot in there! How old is your fryer? Wander if its a common fault? x

  186. Parry LPG table top fryer Problem

    I have a problem AGAIN this time with my parry fryer.
    The pilot will not stay on, so I assumed its the Thermocouple which I replaced with a Universal Couple.
    Pilot stayed and burner started and shut off when reaches the temperature. Then I noticed after a while that the pilot was off, properly the wind blew it out, when I tried to lit the Pilot again it wont stay AGAIN!, could the new Thermocouple broke again ?????

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Frank, we’d suggest ensuring the thermocouple tip is in the flame and double checking the connections. Let us know if this helps.

  187. I am not sure on our model, fish and chip fryer, it’s old though. I know that the high limit is kaput on one pan but the pilot light itself is not a roaring flame like the other pan. I have located a relase valve which makes the pilot flame bigger if unscrewed but it’s still not very powerful, just a big yellow flame. Any suggestions?

  188. Hi!

    I have a Frymaster two basket deep fryer. I think 20L or so? Anyway, It was working fine, then one day during service, the temperature dropped. When I turn it on, it goes up to temp (350), but then slowly loses temperature, until it hits 330, where it will stay.

    I have to turn the dial way way up in order for it to get back up to 350. Any ideas?

  189. I have a Dean deep fryer we usually set to 350F. When we turned it to 350F it seemed like it wasn’t turning on. Then when we tried to set it to a higher temperature, it starting working. Am I correct in thinking this a thermostat problem?

  190. My fryer lights up but don’t shut off @ any temp the thermostat is brand new. But I do not see a thermopile will not having this part cause this issue?

  191. Hi all,

    I’ve got an AF-45 American range fryer and the flames are lazy. some flames are not getting into the burner and are actually coming out and producing soot all over the tops of my fryer. Thermostats and limits seem to be working properly. I’m thinking its the combination gas valve or my step down valve off my propane line. What could be the culprit and how would I diagnose it?


  192. just converted my Pitco sg14 from NG to LP and one of the burners runs out to the lower part of the heat stack. You can see the “Orange” flame if you look down the heat stack but the other 3 are fine and burn blueish. the Jet was checked and if you look down the tube everything looks fine…please help

  193. I purchased my deep fryer at a going out of business sale and finally went to use it this weekend. It was heating up fine then went out. It will heat too 300 and go to pilot then when I turn it up to 375 it heats to 335 and it all shuts off pilot included. I can’t start the pilot light right away as it won’t stay lit. Hope you can help.

  194. Hello,
    I have a Frialator 40-S propane fryer. I’ve used it from time to time over the last few years. The last couple of times I used it there was black smoke and suet coming out the exhaust. The last time I used it the plasic on the drain handle caught on fire. Please help. Thank you.

  195. Hello. We have Pitco Fryer, Model SG14.
    While frying the staff is hearing an unusual popping noise.

    We are having it serviced this Monday. The repair co said that it could be the metal expanding or contracting. They also said it could be moisture in the oil.

    If the metal is expanding and contracting, could this cause a hole, a major leak of oil or even an explosion? Please advise.

    Fryer was purchased March 2014.

  196. Hello, we have a Goldstein 3 burner LPG deep fryer (Australia). When the burners start up there is an explosive noise. It has gradually become louder over time as it kicks in to come back up to temp. There is also a gas smell within the shop. I had a technician tell me that the burners needed replacing. ( he said this without inspecting them) what do you think?

    • Nick, it sounds like there’s air in the gas line. You can check to see if there is a kink in any of the gas lines, and if so, straighten them out. Other than that, you may need to bleed/purge the lines. There are plenty of online DIY tutorials to help you do this on your own, but because it involves a gas line, we’d revert to recommending for you to contact a technician to help bleed/purge the lines.

  197. Great Blog, very informative. I have a question about my Imperial EFS40 fryer. It has a couple symptoms going on. 1 Sometimes the pilot will not stay lit. 2. When it does stay lit and I go to turn the fryer on the pilot goes out. And 3, which happens the most….I get the pilot to stay lit and the fryer turns on, but when it gets to temp the flame and the pilot go out.

    Any advice would be great!
    Thank you so much, Dan

  198. I have a double bowl deepfryer that when very first turned on will blow it flames instead of on the wells out the front. The flames will come right out the door if unnoticed. It has burned off the handle of the drain latch and burned me through my clothes the outside gets so hot (this only happened the first time I noticed this as now I watch). I turn off the fryer, wait about 15 mins and 95 percent of the time it comes on normally and works fine all day. At no other point through out the day as it regulates it’s temp does this happen. The pilot is working fine. I’ve been using it at its location for 8 months now and the problem has other begun in the last two. It’s just over two years old and was converted from natural gas to propane when it was moved from one of our locations to the one it’s at now. Also not all the time but it seems more likely to occur if the oil was just changed to fresh. There’s been someone to services it and he’s blaming the wind, like from out side, seriously! We are inside and there is wind at all times of the day where is live, earth, so I don’t believe him. Any suggestions? I’m super remote and don’t have another serviceman option

    • Hal, this sounds like a very dangerous situation. Unfortunately, our only recommendation at this time would be to reach out to a service tech. If the first one you tried gave you the suggestion above, I’d definitely stay away from that tech, but finding a reliable tech should help you find resolve. Sorry we couldn’t be of more help.

  199. Just replaced thermostat and high limit switch on a pitco 35c fryer. After lighting the pilot in the pilot position i turn it to on and flames immediately ignite without the thermostat being turned on and will not shut off unless it is turned back to pilot. any suggestions

  200. Hi… I have a Royal Range 50 pounds fryer… Whenever I turn it on the flames of the burners tend to go to the front part of the fryer instead of going straight to the tank where the oil is… We cleaned the whole fryer upside down but the issue persist… What’s going on?

  201. I have a set of sg14-js fryers, 2008 model, with automatic pilot. They light and fire up fine, they come to temp fine. When the come back on to maintain temp, they will fast cycle 3 or 4 times. They light, go off, relight, go off, at least 3 times. Then they will stay lit, and come back to normal temp. If I raise the temp it ignites with out any problems. Only when igniting to maintain temperature does it do this. Any help is greatly appreciated.

  202. We have Pitco 35c+ Gas fryers and have converted the Gas Valves Rober Shaw with the LPG Conversion.
    however when the Pilot is lit and the Cream Control Knob is turned the Burners light up without the Thermostat knob being turned?

  203. We just bought a new pitco fryer a week ago and it was working fine til today, we usually set the temperature at 335ish and its fine. Usually it goes off after reaching the set temperature but today at some point it just stop working, the pilot light is on no problem, usually when I turn the themostats nob after hearing that click noise the fire comes on right away but it just decided to not doing anything and we are pretty frustrated since it’s only a week old, I think the thermostat is broken and needs to be replace but I like to hear some professional opinion from you guys, Thank you.

  204. Hi – I have PITCO gas 34P fryer. The front of the fryer gets really hot and burns the oil on the top of the pan. When I look at the burner valves, it appears that some flame doesn’t shoot straight down the flue, it wraps around the sides. I pulled the burner valves out and verified that all the little port holes were clear and unobstructed. The venting around and within the fryer is also unobstructed..BUT when I look down the flues, they are full of gunk!
    Is there a video on how to clean the gunk out of the flues or could you provide step by step instructions on how to do this? much appreciation!

    • Grace, our local tech experts suggested to call Pitco tech support at 603-225-6684. I also forwarded this on to our video team to see if we can get a video up that shows the process. Good luck!

  205. hi guys
    I have a problem with my gas fryer. While its working it produces high flames from the vents at the back. Too much heat is emmited from those vents. what could be the problem.

    • Tim, we’re not quite sure what is going on here. Your best bet would be to contact the manufacturer of the fryer and talk to their tech support team.

    • Check in side the vents wall you may find some grease, it cause smoke at first and follow with the flame that what happen to my Fry master.

  206. I have a tri star fryer. I turn it on, pilot stay lit. Burners come on but when I turn the switch to off, it doesn’t shut off. I hear a click whe I turn it to off but stays lit. Help

    • Eric, there could also be grease buildup on the flumes/burners themselves, and that is actually igniting and continuing to burn. Check for obstructions first, but other than that it may be your thermostat that needs to be replaced.

  207. I have a Vulcan fryer with three burners. I have used it for 2 or 3 years with no problems. The last two times I tried to use it, flames would come out of the bottom of the burners. When it gets up to temp the burners go off and the flames from the bottom of the burners go out. I don’t want to use it like that because the flames are getting to the drain valve handle and the pilot light tubing. Where should I start trying to repair it?

  208. I have a Vulcan deep fryer that has worked fine for nearly five years. However, the last two times I tried to use it there were flames coming out of the bottom of the burners. when I shut off the burners there were small flames coming from orifices at the bottom of the burner that looked like pilot lights. They died out after a couple of seconds. Does that sound like a repair job or a matter of cleaning? Where should I start to trouble shoot this problem?

    • Kevin, it sounds like a build up of grease around the burners and perhaps a thorough cleaning would help. Sometimes grease build-up can be so bad that it looks like a pumice brick instead of grease build-up, but to make sure, we’d rather have you call Vulcan tech support at 800-979-3834 and see what they’d suggest doing.

      • I finally got around to pulling the burners out and having a look at them. Sure enough they were pretty clogged. I used a thin piece of wire to clean out every hole in the burners and now it works better than ever. Thanks for your help.

  209. i have a pitco fat frying a replace o ready the thermopile thermostat.gas valve and high limit and still not still light the soon realeas the pilot button turns off any advices thanks

  210. Hi I have a Patriot Fryer the pilot lights but when you turn the thermostat on the pilot goes out not sure if it is the thermopile any advice thanks

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Hi Vanetta,
      If the pilot will not stay lit, then the first thing you’ll need to do is replace the thermopile. If you have any more questions, feel free to give us a call at 888-388-6372 or contact us online.

  211. KyleLivingston

    what would cause a Cecilware double fryer to shock someone? repeatedly

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Hi Kyle,
      There might be a shorted out wire somewhere–we recommend you call Cecilware tech support ASAP to troubleshoot. Reach them toll free at 1-800-695-4500.

      – Tundra Team

  212. I have a 40lb Natural Gas Fryolator that runs up to 400 plus degrees without the main burners running. The pilot is on and the main burners are idling. can the idle burn be turned down

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Hey Buz,
      You may need a different orifice to tone down the BTU output. Without knowing whether this was replaced at one point, or a factory part, it’s hard to say for sure. Give us a call at 888-388-6372 or contact us online for more info. Thanks!

      – Tundra Team

  213. Hi there,
    We have a FRYMASTER model PMJ135SD at the restaurant. When we turn the fryer on in the morning it works fine until the moment it reachs the set up temperature. When the oil cools down and the burners were supposed to fire up again it will not work.
    Is that a thermostat problem?

    Ps: if we hardly shake the fryer the burners start working again

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply

      Hi Guilherme,

      The problem you’re experiencing sounds like an issue with the thermostat, but Frymaster tech support may know more. Give them a call at 800-551-8633!

      – Tundra Team

  214. Hi, i have a 3 basket fryer which when lite is trying to lite but either stays on for a few minutes or just won’t light at all, each time the pilot light is out, any help would be much appreciated. also the pilot light dos’nt have a thermopile just a thermocouple beside it

  215. I have a pitco deep fryer using propane. When the fryer reaches temperature it turns off yet leaves a small flame where the gas line after valve meets the 3 burners. Could that be a combination valve or thermostat(with gas lines in and out) not shutting off completely? Thanks.

    • Hey Josh,

      Without being able to visually see what’s happening, I’m not sure exactly what’s happening. Sounds like all the components are working correctly. The existing flame could either be residual gas in the line flowing out, or burning off built up soot/carbon/grease. Contact us online or give us a call at 888-388-6372 for more help.


  216. I have a 5099 gold medal funnel cake fryer have lost some of the burners and it will not keep temp at 400 I changed regulator at tank which is 40 # but problem is getting worse. These units come with regulator on fryer. My local Gold Medal does not have a tech anymore.Thanks

  217. I have an Imperial Fryer model RS40 and everything is working fine except every so often flames shoot up from the exhaust port about an inch. Is this normal because it makes the staff uneasy. Thanks

    • Hey Ben,

      How clean is the unit? You’ll want to make sure it’s not just burning off excess soot/carbon/grease. However, there could be something more serious going on like a valve or regulator not providing a consistent gas flow.

      Without seeing the unit or talking to your directly it’s a bit tough to say exactly what’s going on. Give us a call at 1-888-388-6372 or contact us online and we’d be happy to talk you through it.

      – Chris
      Tundra Team

  218. my fryer temp goes through the roof and gets too Hot is this the thermostat or high limit? thanks

    • Hi Jeff,
      Typically, this would be the thermostat. Make sure you have a good thermometer (like this thermometer).

      Set the thermostat to 300 degrees and watch the thermometer. If the gas never turns off until the oil goes over 400 degrees, and the pilot and burners turn off, then the hi limit is doing it’s job and the thermostat is bad.

      If you set it to 300 and the burners turn off at 325, then the thermostat just needs to be calibrated. This should be done by a service technician.

      If you have more questions, feel free to give us a call at 1-888-388-6372 or contact us online.

      – Tundra Team

  219. Hi,

    I have an Imperial cifs 2525 twin tank fryer. The left hand fryer is working fine. Though when I light the right hand fryer and turn the thermostat know to the on position, I get flames up the flu, and coming through the front pipes beside the pilot light. To correct this, I find that when I reduce the thermostat knob from the on position back to around the 2 o’clock position (1/2 way between on and pilot) I get a better flame and its usable, but I know this is not right. Thank you for your assistance.

    • Glen,
      First thing to check is to make sure the entire flue path is clear of debris. Some customers that do a lot of manual breading of products tend to have more debris fall into the flue. The next step would be to remove the burners from the unit and use an orifice cleaning tool to make sure each burner hole is clear of carbon buildup. Some burners may look clear but over time carbon builds up in the holes and needs to cleaned out. Beyond those two things would be manifold pressure of the gas. This is something that can be adjusted by a service professional. If you have any questions, give us a call at 1-888-388-6372 or contact us online.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  220. Kayla - Thinkheat.com

    I’ve used one fryer for quite a while. Sometimes it doesn’t work although the pilot is lit. Just like what’s written here, I replace the thermostat and now it’s working normal. Thanks for the explanation.

  221. hi there i have a jackson twin gas fryer and i have got the pilot light to work but when i turn the thermostat on after about 2-3 seconds it cuts out altogether , can you help me please , thanks andrew

    • Hi Andrew,

      Those units are very specialized and you should direct your inquiry to the manufactures technical assistance team.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

      • hi there paul thanks for that info but i cant find the company anywhere on the net , are they still in existence and if so can you direct me to there website , thanks andrew

        • Hey Andrew,

          You have us stumped over here. We only know of Jackson Dish Machines. I would check inside on the Model tag and hopefully you’ll find a phone number there. Or give us a call at 1-888-688-6372 and we can try to troubleshoot together.

          – Tundra Team

  222. Hello, I’ve been researching this all morning and can’t find any info on it. My fryeris operational, but very randomly and not very often, when I turn it on and flames light up under the fryer to light up the heating elements, it looks like debris has gotten under there. So certain spots appear to have flames that shouldn’t because there’s some kind of build up. How did it get under here ad how do we clean it? There’s also these metal pieces that glow (heating elements?) But they look jaggedin some spots from perhaps age? I don’t know how old my fryer is, at least 4 years. I hope you can understand what I mean! I’m not sure on the proper terms….

    • Laura,
      I’m not too sure of your exact problem, but I know that if the maintenance cleaning schedule that is in the owners manual is not followed, you will have issues down the line. If this has not been kept up with, then I would suggest having the unit serviced professionally. At that time the technician can recommend maintenance and cleaning tips. The metal you see in the tubes is a baffle meant to capture and transfer the heat more into the pot.

      Here’s an example of a new one:

      If you have any more questions, give us a call at 1-888-388-6372 or contact us online.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  223. I have a Frymaster GF14 that I just put a new gas valve on. It lights fine, both the pilot and burners, however the thermostat knob will not turn it off. I ohmed with a meter and got “open” with it in the switch off position and I believe it 3.7 in the on position. I have triple checked the wiring, the high limit switch etc. Bad gas valve or thermostat? Thanks

    • Hey Steve,

      It could be a defective valve. Try removing everything but the thermopile and light it up. If the burners fire without a thermostat hooked up, I’d say it’s bad.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  224. Hi there,

    I have an MKE deep fryer (model HE-108).

    The issue that I am having is that for whatever reason, a number of times throughout the day, after the fryer has been operating in a normal fashion, the pilot and burner flame will both shut off simultaneously which requires me to re-light the pilot and turn the burner back on. I thought the issue might have been the hi-limit switch, which I replaced, however the problem is still occurring.

    Do you think I should try and change the thermopile? Any suggestions would be must appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    • Dave,
      One thing most people don’t think about is putting a thermometer in the oil to monitor what temperature the oil is actually getting to. If the unit shut off at 420° – 450°, then the hi-limit is doing it’s job and your thermostat is bad. Now if it’s turning off in the 300° – 400° range then most likely you have a bad thermopile. The tricky part is that the solenoid (which the thermopile is powering) might also be bad. You won’t know for sure unless you replace the thermopile. If it still happens after you replace the thermopile then the Combination Safety Valve would need to be replaced.

      You can’t go wrong with the thermopile. Even if the Combo Valve needs replacing you should give it a new thermopile anyway. The company I used to work for changed thermopiles out every 6 months as part of their preventive maintenance package. I wouldn’t say that’s exactly what you should do as a practice, but you should keep a spare in the office as this is a commonly replaced item and there’s no reason to suffer threw a weekend for something so easy to replace.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  225. Hi. I have a Pitco fryer that my local gas company hooked up for me. When they hooked it and my chargrill up they didn’t put regulators on them. They did put a regulator on the line just before the fryer ( fryer then double oven/range then chargrill). Is it safe to run the fryer without its own regulator?

    • Hi Tommy,

      In short, yes. There is a regulator in the Combo Safety Valve. My personal recommendation is to buy and add the external one to the unit. It provides an inexpensive protection to the unit. If any other regulators fail, including the one feeding your whole property, then the only damage you would have is the $30 external regulator and that would protect the $200 combo safety valve. I’ve only heard of this happening with my customers that run mobile trailers and their propane regulator at the tank failed, but better safe than sorry.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  226. I have a Pitco SG14R friolator. When I fist start it the pilot lights then after about 30 seconds it says “Ignition Failure” on the LED’s then shuts down with a tone. Any ideas on this?

    • Hi Scott,

      Those fryers can be very picky sometimes. A sensor could be bad or it might just be a wire. It’s best to reach out to the factory and ask their Technical Assistance hotline for the specifics of that error code.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  227. Thanks Paul!

  228. Hello again,

    I posted a comment on the 31st of May. Thank you kindly for answering that.

    I have a second question if you don’t mind:

    I ended up replacing the MKE fryer that I posted about. Prior to replacing this fryer, I had this fryer along with another fryer (same model) hooked up. When in operation, both of these fryers produced a strong blue flame and both of these fryers were hooked up to 1/2″ NPT with metal connectors connecting them to the gas line.

    So I took out the one fryer and replaced it with a brand new fryer. I connected this fryer (which is also 1/2″ NPT) using a dormont 1650-bp48 connector. Now, when I ignite the burners this new fryer is not producing a strong blue flame like my other fryer did. I would describe this flame as a strong flame but it’s not pure blue its more orange than blue.

    Is there something I can adjust somewhere which will turn the flame from orange to blue?

    Thanks again.

    • Hi Dave,

      The pressure regulator on the Safety Valve usually can be adjusted, but it’s best to have this done by a technician. It’s part of installing a piece of equipment properly. Unfortunately not everything is just plug and play, sometimes you need to measure the pressures at different points in the machine to dial it in to it’s new environment.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  229. I have a pitco fryer. 90000 btu. LP.
    That leaks through, and leaves a small flame on the burners even after the thermostat shuts off. Also leaks through when switched to ON position without lighting pilot. I’ve heard it could be the regulator. Also have heard it costs 400+ not including labor. Easier to buy new fryer at 700? Is this someting I can replace myself? Thank you.

    • Hi Vern,

      This is happening a lot in mobile applications. I’ve heard of the regulator at the propane tank failing and then the pressure is too much on the combo safety valve in the fryer. If too much pressure is provided to the safety valve, it will rupture the diaphragms inside. You most likely are going to need a 41426 safety valve, a 26906 Thermopile and a 41457 LP Gas Regulator. If you keep an external regulator on the back of the unit it’ll help protect the $200 valve inside the unit.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  230. Hi I have a Natural Gas Avantco FF518 70-100 lb. Stainless Steel Tube Floor Fryer – 5 Tubes, 150,000 BTU. We purchased in it in 2013 and it has been fine. All of a sudden over the past few months the pilot will go out when we turn it on as it reaches the set temperature. If we turn it up incrementally, it will usually not go out. Also it usually stays on once it reaches the set temperature but will occasionally go out. We have had the gas company come out and upgrade the service to our building and give us a new, bigger meter that they say will handle more than what we will ever need. When the pilot is lit it is a strong pilot. Any help is much appreciated!

    • Hi Patrick,

      Chances are your thermopile is going out. You should get a new one and purchase a backup to keep in the office. It’s good practice to change once a year just to avoid downtime. Call us at 1-888-388-6372 with your Make, Model & Serial Number and we’ll hook you up.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  231. Thank you Paul! Is that something a non-professional can handle switching out or should I have my service guy do it?

    • Hi Patrick,

      Yes, this is a very easy replacement because you are not opening any pipes that contain gas. It’s just an electrical component that has 2 connections at the valve and screws into the pilot assembly.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  232. Hi, I have Imperial gas fryer. The pilot lit is working absolutely fine, but as soon as I switch on the thermostat the pilot lit is switched off and the burner didn’t work. So according to you what would be the actual problem in this case. Thank you very much.

    • Hi Sherrie,

      A couple of things could be causing this problem. First, check every wire in the unit and make sure that none of them are exposed and touching any bare metal of the unit. If a wire is even mildly touching the frame that would take the power away from the safety valve and starve the solenoid, shutting off the gas flow. Next step would be replacing the Thermopile. That is where the safety valve gets power from to hold open the solenoid in the safety valve and it can wear out. Lastly, the Combination Safety Valve might have a weak solenoid in it and would need to be replaced. It’s good practice to have a spare Thermopile on site for emergencies or in this case to test some of the scenarios I’ve listed here. I hope that helps.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  233. Hi… I have an imperial fryer IFS40… When we turn it on everything looks fine… Then, the fryer starts to overheat the oil… For example, if we put it in 100C it gets hot around 350C… We guess is that the thermostat needs to be changed… Are we right or do we need to change other parts as well?

    • Hi Rob,

      It sounds like you might need a few things. If your unit does not turn off at the correct temperature and exceeds it greatly, you definitely need a new thermostat. You might also need a high limit safety for it also. This device will turn off the unit at a specified temperature (typically 415-430 degrees F). If that device is not functioning properly and the thermostat breaks and never shuts off the heat, your oil will get too hot and ignite into flames. If you’re not sure, please hire a technician, it’s a lot cheaper than a kitchen fire.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  234. Hi, I’m not sure on the exact model but we were having issues and basically replaced all the guts (Gas Valve, Thermo and hi limit) Now, we lit the pilot and when the thermo finally gets red hot it holds the pilot on but when we engage the temp control it instantly cuts out and the pilot also goes out. I’m lost because we already replaced everything. Suggestions? Thanks!!

    • Josh,
      It sounds like you’re working on a fryer. One thing to check is gas pressure. If it’s too low, it’ll let the pilot light but will lose pressure when the main burner fires. It’s possible that the regulator needs replacement or adjusting. Also, sometimes the wires between the components go bad. Most people don’t have the tools to test either of these problems; if you don’t, I would suggest having a technician do the work for you.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  235. Ok experts here is a crazy one. We had a Pitco 35 C+S which was working fine and then it started to have issues. Sometimes the pilot would stay lit and sometimes it would die. Other days it would run fine and shut off at night. For a month we tried everything we could think of. Replaced the high limit, the thermopile, the valve etc. Each time thinking we had solved the problem and then within a day or two or sometimes the same day we would experience the same problems again. Pitco said to make sure the unit was at least 6 feet from the regulator so we added pipe, we tested the voltages and they were in range and had the gas pressure tested which was at 7 inch water column. Still had issues. Bought another 35 C + S used which had been running for a few hundred bucks just for test purposes and it had similar problems. So last night we bought a brand new with warranty Anets SLG50 and hooked it up and the pilot would not stay lit. Had a gas company out today and they tested the pressure on the unit and it fluctuated while on from 5.8 to 7 in water column and the manual says 7 + or – 2 is in the range. However, the thermopile on the new unit according to the manual should be at 500 milliamps and + or – 50 and it was only reading 285 while the pilot was lit but the burners not on. Clearly a problem so we took a second thermopile and hooked it up as well so both are connected to the unit and it now reads in the proper range but it is clearly a hack. We have 4 oz main service and the gas company is coming to look at instilling a 2lb service but that will be expensive. We seem to be in range of the 560,000 BTU that our service can handle. We have a 1″ line running to a manifold which splits into a 3/4″ line off to the fryer and our grill and stove. Everyone is scratching their heads on this one. Any insight would be helpful.

    • Dan, I’m not sure what to tell you. I would look into hiring a company that really knows how to calculate equipment loads on your system to determine if that’s your problem and you need to upgrade or not. I’ve seen regulators really mess things up for people in the past. Sometimes they work until they have a heavy load to provide for.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  236. hi everyone i have 2 pitco fryers and the other day the wind was quite hard and blow back down the top of my van the inside of the fryer caught fire and the oil release handle started to melt now the pilot light stays lit and i turn the switch which clicks like always but main burners will not light any ideas many thanks tracey

    • Hi Tracy,

      That’s unfortunate. Every component needs to be tested after something like that. Every wire needs to be checked for conductivity and the individual components each need to be tested individually. This is a job for a qualified technician. At this point one or several parts might need to be changed.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

  237. I have an MKE fryer which is currently having a few different issues. This fryer is my dedicated blancher for my french fries.

    The first issue I am having is every once in a while there is a loud bang coming from the fryer while in operation. The bang is quite loud and quiet noticeable. It literally sounds like someone kicked the front of the fryer door.

    The 2nd issue I ma having is when I turn the temperature gauge from off to the desired temperature, every so often the burners ignite quite violently and some of the flames shoot out towards the door. The best way to describe it is a quick snap of flame that’s gone before you even register it.

    The 3rd and final issue I am having is a real pain. I have had 2 different techs come out from 2 different companies to look at it and it and none of them has a solution. This 3rd problem is something I have been dealing with for years and now I have the above 2 problems on top of it.

    Basically what happens is after a few hours of use, I get a carbon build up on the back of my fryer where the baskets hang from. This build up is so caked on even that after 1 day normal greasers won’t remove the carbon build up. I have to use a special heavy duty chemical called “carbon off” to remove the residue and this stuff has to be sprayed on while wearing a mask and be left to sit overnight so it comes off in the morning. My other 3 fryers do not have this issue at all and normal degreasers clean them just fine but my blancher literally takes me an hour to wipe the carbon build up every 3-4 days off it’s caked on there so bad


    • Kevin,

      I have seen that problem before. It was on a Frymaster unit, but yours might be built similarly. On the unit I worked on, the gas was fed to the burners by a manifold that was located at the top of the burner compartment. The pipe had orifices feeding gas into the venturi tubes, which carried it to the burner tubes where the combustion happened.

      If yours is like this, what you can’t see is that at the end of the venturi tubes is a screen that dust and kitchen debris build up and block the flow, so some of the gas makes it threw and some stacks up and explodes in the tube. This would also block the airflow and the amount of oxygen that the flame needs to burn efficiently, explaining the carbon buildup. If you think this is the setup you have, contact the manufacturer’s technical assistance department and ask them for instructions on how to clean your unit. I wouldn’t blame those service companies too much. There’s only a handful of those units out there. so if the tech hasn’t ran into this particular problem before, they probably wouldn’t know about this issue. Not everyone is as lucky as me…

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

      • Thanks for the response, 1 quick question. All 4 of my fryers are the exact same make/model, there are no differences in the build between the 4 fryers.

        This problem is only occurring on one of them, how likely is it that what you explained is the issue if all 4 fryers are the same make/model and all 4 fryers were installed the same year?

        Thanks again!

  238. Sebastian Georgallides

    Hi I have a new American range 35/50 deep fryer installed in a food trailer. The pilot will not stay lit. I swapped an adjustable regulator for a 1/2lb regulator at the propane tank so I’m assuming pressure is fine. Although my initial concern was I burned up the new thermopile. So I ordered and replaced that. That did not fix it. I tried connecting the hi limit wires. That also did not work. I ordered a new hi limit and a new combination gas valve but I haven’t replaced them yet. Like I said it’s never been used but I’m
    Not the original owner so it’s not under warranty. I’ve been on the phone with the AR techs and they don’t know what to tell me. I’ve held the pilot for up to 3 min with no luck. It’s also not perfectly level I don’t know if there is some kind of saftey cutoff for that but I doubt it. Please help!

  239. my imperial computerized fryer IFS-50C, is functioning normally during the day, but after several hours the burners stops while the pilot flame is still lit.
    so we continue using it as any normal gas deep fryer without the usage of the (FASTRON, MERIDIAN PROGRAM) during night hours.

  240. I have a castle commercial deep fryer the pilot stays lit but when you turn up the thermostat it comes on for one or two minutes and than shuts off but the pilot is still lit

  241. Hi, my name is Jim and I do work at Olive Gardens I’m having a problem with a Pitco SSH55 fryer.
    Upon start ups ( not all ) it has explosions. Seems like whenever the main gas valve is energized
    the pilot goes out and then back on. Unit has a new ignition module,gas valve and thermostat. It’s
    a 2 fryer unit. The other fryer has no problems. It needs help. Thanks

    • Hi Jim,
      I’ve seen that before. If I’m correct, your gas manifold is above when you open the front door. They feed the venturi tubes that mix the oxygen with the gas on the way to the burner tubes. You can’t see it, but at the end of those tubes (you might have 4 or 5) there is a screen. Because there’s no combustion in this area those screens collect dust and other kitchen debris over time and have to be removed and cleaned. It’s not the easiest job in the world. Some units you have to remove the main gas valve to get it out of the way. It’s kinda a borderline job, if you think you can tackle it, great. Or hire a technician to do it. If you have a monthly maintenance plan, they should add that to their list about twice a year.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

      • Paul
        I just finished pulling everything aprt blew it out with dry nitrogen. Reattached all parts.
        Started it up and in 1 minute had an explosion. Still a problem. Besides nothing was dirty.
        Can you come up with any other solutions?

  242. I have a Vulcan LG400 and the pilot light lights done and stays lit , but when I turn the temperature knob off off the pilot dies and the gas turns off. What do you think is the issue?

    • Jason,

      Sometimes that can point to a bad pressure regulator not letting enough volume of gas through, and when the main burner opens it starves for gas and the pilot goes out.

      – Paul
      Tundra Team

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