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Fixing Commercial Oven Problems

Oven problems are fairly simple to diagnose.

The most common complaints are:

  • The pilot won’t stay lit.
  • The oven won’t get up to temperature.
  • The oven gets too hot.
  • The oven does not cook evenly.

Fixing Commercial Oven ProblemsProblem number one is probably the most common.  Usually it’s the thermocouple that causes this problem.  When lighting the pilot, if the thermocouple is not directly in the flame it can not get hot enough to allow it to open the safety valve.  If it is directly in the flame and it won’t stay lit then the thermocouple is probably defective and needs to be replaced,  Keep in mind that some safety valves have the thermocouple permanently attached so the entire valve must be replaced.

If you’ve replaced the thermocouple and attempt to light the pilot and it still will not stay lit then the safety valve is defective.  Remember to check the type of safety valve you have to get the correct replacement.  For correct identification  procedures check out this Tech Talk post.

When working on any type of gas equipment always remember to shut off the gas!

Number two is usually a thermostat problem.  When you set the thermostat at a set temperature and it does not reach that point it may be one of two problems:Fixing Commercial Oven Problems

1. The thermostat may be defective.
2. The thermostat may be out of calibration.  To check the calibration get a thermometer that you know is accurate.  Put it in the oven and set the thermostat to 250º.  Open the kick plate below the oven door and watch the burner flame, if it goes off before the oven reaches 250º you may be able to calibrate it.

To calibrate a thermostat remove the knob and check to see what type of thermostat you have.  The thermostat is either a type with a round disk that has two screws holding it in place or it will have a D shaft with a small screw in the center of it.  In either case only turn the disc or screw a fraction of a turn at a time and no more than a quarter turn either direction.

Continue to turn the disc or screw a fraction of a turn each time until you see the burner come back on.   If you reach that quarter of a turn point and the burner does not come back on, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced.  If the burner comes back on, watch the temperature of the oven and if it gets to within 5 or 10° of the preset temperature, you are good to go.  It may take several tries to get it properly calibrated.

If you still can not get it calibrated within the temperature range, you need to replace the thermostat.  All thermostats are preset from the factory and should not require calibration when installed.  If you find that the new thermostat does require calibrating, follow the previous instructions.

Number three is also a thermostat problem.  Follow the same procedure to calibrate as you did for the oven not getting to temperature.  Again, if you can’t get it to calibrate, replace it and the oven should heat to the correct temperature.

Number four is a common problem after a new thermostat has been installed.  All the thermostats have a capillary tube with a bulb attached to the end of it.  This is the part that senses the temperature in the oven.  The bulb is attached to clips inside the oven.  If the bulb is not put back in the same place, i.e. it’s just stuck in the oven cavity and left hanging, then the thermostat will run “wild,” meaning the oven cooks unevenly.

Remember to get that bulb back into those clips no matter how hard it may be.

If your oven is running wild check and make sure the bulb is installed properly.  Another reason for the oven running wild is that the thermostat is totally defective and in this case must be replaced.

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105 Responses to Fixing Commercial Oven Problems

  1. kevin January 20, 2011 at 3:36 pm #

    can I make my own cross over gas assembly for a bakers pride d125 gas oven?
    I can not seem to find a picture of one online however looking at the part still in the oven it looks pretty basic
    I heard service techs make this part all the time

    • Tundra January 21, 2011 at 8:07 am #

      Hi Kevin,

      If you’re talking about replacing the FMRA or FMDA safety valve then you can get the replacement kit from Bakers Pride, part number L5008P for a cost of $900.00.

      This kit includes a TSll safety valve,pilot assembly, thermocouple and a replacement front panel.

      Or if you want to part it out (less expensive) you need our parts as follows:

      TS11 safety valve head 41-421 $97.48
      TS11 body 41-406 $36.65
      Thermocouple 41-279 $17.79
      Pilot Assembly 41-407 $83.16
      Insulation Cover 42-317 $8.90

      Now the TS11 body is 7/8″ shorter than an FMDA or FMEA body so you will have to add in a longer pipe nipple to make up that 7/8″.

      It is a pretty straight forward installation.

      There is one more thing you need to know. We have had issues with the capillary tube on the thermocouple overheating; that is what the insulation cover is for. Due to the heat factor you may have to go to your local hardware store and get additional hi heat insulation.

      I also understand that Bakers Pride and Blodgett have experienced the same issues.

      If you need additional assistance we’d be happy to help! Just call 1-888-388-6372.

      Thanks!

      • Joe August 2, 2013 at 12:39 pm #

        Weird oven problem- can you help?
        I have a marsal MB45 oven. The past few weeks the top oven keeps going out. We figured out that whenever we open the door to put pizzas in, The oven turns off. If we do not open the oven, it stays on. It does not sound like a mechanical issue since it only occurs when we open the door. What could be causing it?

        • Tundra Restaurant Supply August 5, 2013 at 9:31 am #

          Joe,

          When you open the door and you say oven turns off, do you mean the pilot light is going out?

          Thank you for clarifying!

  2. mike February 7, 2011 at 10:35 pm #

    thanks for the info on the replacement kit for bakers pride pizza ovens the ts 11 I recenly try this and had problems with the thermocouple blowing out i did’nt know that u had to use a insulation cover on the thermocouple to i read your feed back on this matter thanks so much

    • Greg McGuire February 8, 2011 at 6:03 am #

      Glad we could be of help to you Mike!

  3. Gren March 6, 2011 at 1:34 pm #

    I have BP Y600 and have replaced the FMEA with the TS11 but have not switched out the burners. The pilot light keeps going out. I replaced the thermocouple again and the pilot still goes out. I leave the burner chamber door open and everything stays lit.

    How can I get the pilot to stay lit with the chamber door closed?

    Do I have to change out the burner? If yes, why?

    • Tundra March 7, 2011 at 7:34 am #

      Hi Gren,

      What is happening is the capillary tube for the thermocouple is over heating. You need to insulate it. Home Depot has insulation that is rated up to 700 degrees. The entire length of capillary tube that is exposed in the burner compartment has to be insulated. That will solve the problem. You don’t have to change out your burners.

  4. Gren March 7, 2011 at 10:37 am #

    Will do!

    Many thanks!!!

    • Marcelo Rafaniello July 8, 2014 at 1:10 pm #

      Hey green the solution is buy a heavy duty thermocouple part # k16ra-60h 60 inch w1343 the brand is baso a comes with a ceramic insulation on it that fix my problem no need for chance ur burners

  5. Quality March 24, 2011 at 11:56 am #

    I looked at Home Depot and Lowes for the high temp insulation and they say they don’t carry it. Any other place you know of.

    • Greg McGuire March 25, 2011 at 5:00 am #

      Check out these shopping results from Google for high temp insulation.

  6. Quality March 29, 2011 at 1:51 pm #

    Is the thermocouple used with the 41-421 and 406 kit a standard thermocouple that would be used with a furnace?

    • Tundra April 1, 2011 at 9:41 am #

      No it is not. It is a 750 millivolt thermocouple nd a furnace themocouple is not. If you use it on a furnace it will eventually burn out the solenoid in the gas valve.

  7. bob April 24, 2011 at 10:56 am #

    have blodgett 981 pizza ovens,both have all new valves,shut offs,pilot valveabove shut off, and thermocouple. one oven has worked about 1 month, the other one the oven will light but only burn about 35-40- mins. then shut off, but you can hold pilot knob down couple min and it will relight.. the 1st oven just quit. can you help

    • Tundra May 3, 2011 at 11:59 am #

      Because of the replacement kit this is a recurring problem. The capillary tube of the thermocouple that is exposed in the burner compartment over heats causing the entire unit to shut down. What is needed is a high heat insulation to wrap that exposed part of the capillary tube in the burner compartment.
      Home Depot has an insulation that is rated at 700 degrees that can be used to do this job.

  8. Jeff from Auto Bake Ovens July 26, 2011 at 9:09 pm #

    You’re 100% right with those 4 major problems. They consist of 80% of all troubleshooting conversations that we have with our clients. The thermostat and thermocouple are the main regulating components and if they aren’t working right, then don’t expect the oven to produce the quality you’re looking for. Maintenance people!

  9. landy October 3, 2011 at 1:07 pm #

    I have a question to ask can I put a timer on a pizza oven commercial so it can turn on when set and turn off when set if yes where can I buy it

    • Tundra October 7, 2011 at 9:42 am #

      Hi Landy,

      I made some inquiries about putting a timer on the oven and nobody knows of a timer that would do that.

      Sorry!

  10. Blodgett Ovens October 4, 2011 at 3:21 pm #

    Thank you for these very helpful and detialed instructions regaurding oven repair and common oven problems. I see far too often oven problems that are often times unknown and unfortunately many do not have the knowledge to troubleshoot or fix these issues. I have found after reading this short article that oven repair can be quite simple and easy to fix with the right knowledge. Its crazy that the simplest items such as a thermostat calibration can be mean all the diference in keeping an oven in top operating shape. Thank you for sharing this very useful oven repair info, I feel it will help many people solve their oven problems and get back to baking those delicious dishes. Thank you and awesome blog!

  11. Mike Cain October 10, 2011 at 11:22 am #

    I have 2 blodgett 961’s.I replaced everything,pilot burners,safety valves,gas valves,thermostats,I feel I’m having the same over heating problem others are having.I wrapped both cap tube wires w/ both wire cover 42-317 and high heat sheld covers from a local speed shop.the pilots still go out after about 30-40 min. After cooling down I can relight the pilots but they go out again,after 30-40 min any other suggetions.Is it possible to switch to fmda safety valves,My bari ovens have these and i never have a problem w/them,I’m at wits end any help would be welcomed,Thanks.

    • Tundra October 12, 2011 at 10:43 am #

      Hi Mike,

      Sorry for your troubles. Unfortunately the FMDA and FMEA safety valves were discontinued due to the mercury in them.

      A service guy that does business with us went through the same issue. He found an insulation at Home Depot that is rated at 700 degrees. He took that and insulated the thermocouple cap tube and it solved the shutting down problem. So you might want to try Home Depot for the insulation.

  12. Tony November 21, 2011 at 7:59 pm #

    I have a Lincoln pizza oven and won’t go past 400° help

  13. chris November 26, 2011 at 6:48 pm #

    Hey i have recently bought 2 blodgett 1060;s I have been having problems with my top oven every time i turn the gas down to 300 degrees the pilot goes out the next day it gives me problems starting up once i get it will stay working until i lower the heat at night and the same problem happens i have changed the pilot assembly three times and the gas valve once these ovens are from 2007 they are not old they always go out after a friday when its busy can you please help me its very frustrating!!! My mother has bp600 from the 80’s and they never have problems maybe once every 7 years i used to have 1997 bp600s with the new thermocouple system and i found myself buying thermocouples every 6 months that is why i bought blodgetts cause i was tired of fixing them please help.

    • Tundra November 30, 2011 at 5:32 am #

      Hi Tony,
      Sounds like the thermostat is shutting down prematurely. I would give it a shot and change it.

  14. Sam November 30, 2011 at 11:20 am #

    i have a blodgett 1000 series pizza oven and the top oven dose not get up to temperature. if you set it to 600 it only goes to 350 and the flame kicks down and maintains the temperature

    • Tundra December 1, 2011 at 11:52 am #

      Hey Sam,
      Sounds like the thermostat is defective. If you need the replacement stat it is our part number 41502 and we do have it in stock. Click here to buy.

  15. doug February 12, 2012 at 3:28 pm #

    I have a 981double deck oven . Top deck runs hotter (100+degrees) at times than the bottom.

  16. Liz I. March 1, 2012 at 7:17 pm #

    I have a Baker’s Pride D-125. The pilot on my bottom oven is lit, but will not ignite the burners. This oven is not used as much as the top oven, so my concern is that has had some impact on the unit. Is there anything I can try to fix it so that it will ignite the burners? Thanks in advance!

  17. Dale April 1, 2012 at 6:52 am #

    I have an impinger 1000 that will run fine from cold for about 5 min then flames out. It relights itself and continues to run to desired temp. Some days it will go out and relight itself 50 times before it settles down and runs good.
    Any ideas?

    Thx,

    Dale

  18. Mike September 8, 2012 at 9:43 am #

    I have a Blodgett 911p with the older style safety valve. Can the thermocouple be replaced on this or do I have to convert to the newer style valve.

    • Tundra September 10, 2012 at 6:57 am #

      Hi Mike,
      Unfortunately you will have to do the conversion. The thermocouple on the old FMEA and FMDA safeties are not replaceable.
      There is now a replacement for that old safety if you want to go that route. It is a Tundra Number 41-403 at a cost of $402.44 or the Blodgett conversion kit 41-444 at a cost of $474.48. You can see both of those at etundra.com.

  19. Mass September 14, 2012 at 4:27 pm #

    Hey

    Big problem with the pilot lights going out on my Bakers Pride D125 deck ovens. Chamber door pretty much has to be kept open so the oven will heat up. I’ve replaced all parts and have went through 4 thermopiles. Is it as simple as insulating the thermopile?

    Thanks

    • Tundra September 18, 2012 at 12:33 pm #

      Hello Mass,
      If you converted to the TS type safety then yes you would need to insulate the cap tube of the thermocouple that is exposed in the burner compartment. Home Depot carries an insulation that is rated at 700 degrees that seems to take care of the problem. I do not have the name of it but if you ask them they seem to know what it is.

  20. Mass September 19, 2012 at 11:47 am #

    Hey

    By replacing all parts I was referring to the 4 thermopiles I’ve went through and the pilot burner/orfice assembly. I haven’t changed any of the main controls. My ovens are 4 years old and are stacked on top of each other and very rarley I’m able to use both without one definately going out. The tech that I use keeps saying I have a weak pilot flame but can’t seem to make it “torch like” he wants. We set a millivolt tester and notice as the oven heats up the millivolts decrease even though the thermopile sits partly over the burner flame. When the ovens do get to temp, the pilot light is a weak yellow flame

    thanks again

    Mass

    • Tundra September 20, 2012 at 6:56 am #

      Hey Mass,
      Has this been happening since you have had the ovens or did this problem just start happening?
      What size gas line is feeding the ovens? Are they tied together. The reason I ask is if both units are tied together there may not be enough volume of gas to fire both units at the same time. You may have to increase the size of the gas hose feeding the units. Most units separately require a ¾” hose but together they may need at least a 1” hose.
      If this just started happening I would contact the manufacturer to find out if they have had any issues of this nature with any of their units. If they have they may have a fix for it.
      Also has the water column been checked. It should be at about 10 inches of water column, if it is below that then you will have that problem of the pilots dropping to low flame. Hope this helps.

  21. Micheal October 2, 2012 at 8:22 am #

    I tryed your trick with the high temp insulation
    And I was a no go my oven still goes out. What to do now???

    • Tundra October 2, 2012 at 11:26 am #

      Because they are fairly new I would call the manufacture and get Tech support on the phone and see if they have been having this problem with others and ask them what their fix is.

  22. Micheal October 2, 2012 at 8:24 am #

    I have a 951 blodgett

  23. joe carlson October 14, 2012 at 2:41 am #

    I run two 1978 covection FAI ovens for pies…they have been solid, until one this morning refuses to allow gas flow. Red “not up to temp” indicator light is on, ceramic igniter is glowing, just no gas flow. Other oven is working fine. Some things to look at? Joe

    .

    • Tundra October 15, 2012 at 12:13 pm #

      Hey Joe,
      What is the brand name of your ovens?
      Does the igniter stay on or does it cycle on and off?
      It may be that the gas solenoid valve is not opening (coil could be burnt out). To check it take a small screw driver and when you turn on the oven touch it to the top of the solenoid coil. If you can feel magnetism with the screw driver then the coil is okay but may mean the plunger in the solenoid is stuck closed.
      It could be your thermostat is defective. To check if it is the thermostat remove one of the wires from the thermostat and touch it to the other wire on the thermostat. If the burner fires then you know for sure it is the thermostat.

  24. Kevin October 14, 2012 at 6:17 pm #

    I have a Blodgett 999 double oven. The top oven is not functioning properly. I did read above posts and it seems it could be a thermostat issue. The safety valve has been replaced, as has the thermocouple which came with a heat shield. The oven struggled to get up to and hold 475f, the oven also turned itself completely off about every 15 minutes during a bake, yet when I turned the burner off the pilot stayed lit.

    Additionally both ovens have had the orofices replaced, the top oven makes an
    audible rushing air sound when the burner valve is opened, the bottom oven does not make this sound.
    Thanks Kevin

    • Tundra October 15, 2012 at 12:02 pm #

      Hey Kevin,
      I do not think you have a thermostat problem, it sounds as though it can’t reach temp because of it shutting down every 15 min.
      There has been a problem with those shutting down prematurely. The problem is the thermocouple over heats even with the heat shield. To resolve this you may have to go to Home Depot and get your self a piece of insulation that is rated at 750 degrees and wrap the thermocouple cap tube with it (any of it that is exposed in the burner compartment). This Seems to remedy the problem. I’m not sure what the insulation is but the Home Depot people do.
      I’m not sure what is causing the rushing air noise. Could be the way the two units are piped. Meaning the top oven may be getting a little more gas flow than the bottom one.

  25. Vern November 5, 2012 at 1:24 pm #

    Hi,

    Having an issue with my bakers pride D-125 deck oven. Was having an issue with pilot light staying lit. Converted the safety valve with the TS Safety valve listed above. the pilot lit would light and remain lit until the oven was fired up. The first time it remained lit for about an hour then the burners and pilot light would all go out. The pilot light would not relight until the oven cooled down. I have replaced the thermocouple and do have hi heat insulation the entire length. I replaced the thermostat and the gas regulator. each time I replaced something the same issues occurs. I have even replaced the safety valve again in case the valve was faulty. No Luck.

    Even with all these new parts the pilot light will remain lit as long as the oven is not turned on – when i do turn on oven the burners will fire up and the oven will start to heat – I even have flame control with the thermostat. I can even shut off the oven and the pilot light will remain lit. Its when i leave the oven running for more that 10mins the burners and pilot dies out.

    I am stumped and my plumber cannot figure out what the problem is. I don’t not know what to try next or what i can even replace next since almost all parts have been replaced.

    • Tundra November 6, 2012 at 6:58 am #

      Hi Vern,
      The main issue with the conversion of these units is the thermocouple. I don’t know how much insulation you have around the capillary so lets try this. Because the oven reaches temps as high as 600 degrees you need an insulation that has a temp range of about 750 degrees. The only place I know of that you can get it is at Home Depot. Tell the sales person at Home Depot that you need a piece of insulation rated at 700 to 750 degrees and they can help you.

  26. Vern November 6, 2012 at 10:17 am #

    Hi

    I have installed the insulation listed in your previous post about retrofitting the safety valve. I believe that this insulation is rated for 1000 degrees F (ordered from tundra Tundra No. 42317).

    I was wondering if you think i need additional insulation for the thermocouple. I have installed the insulation sleeve from the oven wall to the thermocouple holder, in other words the entire length of the copper tubing that is in the oven cavity. I have also ran the thermocouple as close the the outside as possible (close to the door and away from the main gas line) to reduce any direct heat transfer.

    Vern

    • Tundra November 6, 2012 at 12:13 pm #

      Hey Vern,
      I believe that is a miss print.
      I do know that this has been a persistent problem with everyone and with the aid of a Tech from another company he discovered the other insulation I spoke of. He wrapped the tube with it and has not had a problem since.

  27. Mass November 18, 2012 at 6:19 pm #

    Hey

    Thanks for the help. Sorry I haven’t got back to you. The gas lines are tied together. I believe they are 3/4 inch. Haven’t had my tech check the water column yet.

    I did call Bakers Pride and spoke with Bob Petrie. He was somewhat helpful. Well kida. He suggested I keep the thermopile wire as far away from the burner chamber as possible. Say’s I should run it along the door of the chamber. That was his advice. So I have done that. Used both ovens last night with no issues. Normally I don’t use 2 ovens. Never that busy, wish I was. lol Hopefully that’s all it is. Seems too simple but I’ll take it. My thermopile does go black and eventually flakes out where it attaches the to the thermocouple. No pilot leak

    I’m thinking maybe I should just wrap the thermopile with the insulation. Do you guys sell that or just go to home depot? Being in Canada, I hope they carry it.

    thanks again for your help. Much appreciated

    Mass

    • Tundra November 19, 2012 at 6:06 am #

      Hey Mass,
      Good to hear the problem may be solved. Tundra does not sell that insulation, but Home Depot should have it.

  28. joe December 9, 2012 at 2:08 pm #

    I have an appliance service business in maryland. Do you know where I can get training or info on repairing commercial ovens and such ?

    • Tundra December 10, 2012 at 7:01 am #

      Hi Joe,
      You can continue using Tech Talk and you can also get from etundra.com two repair manuals. One of them for Gas Equipment Repair Tundra #36-501 and the other Electric Equipment Repair Tundra #36-502. They both get right down to the basics of restaurant equipment repair.
      I have to say most basic restaurant equipment is a lot easier to repair than residential equipment.
      Of course if you run into a problem on any piece of equipment and you can’t find the answer in either of the books you can always refer back to Tech Talk on etundra’s blog The Back Burner we would be happy to help you out.

  29. Shelly December 14, 2012 at 4:15 pm #

    Have a 12-yr-old wolf 6-burner with oven. A few weeks ago oven went out in the middle of service, so I re-lit the pilot and oven relit. Next day, it happened again but the pilot would not stay lit after holding 30 seconds (with oven off). Changed out the thermocouple and it still would not stay lit. changed out the safety valve and now I can light the pilot but only if i turn on the oven a little. Then, the pilot will stay lit until I turn on the oven. Once I turn on the oven, everything stays lit for a few minutes then everything goes out, burner and pilot.

    One thing, I can’t find the identical compression fitting, so too much gas was getting into the burner. the flame was very high and yellow. I rigged the valve that I got from the valve company engineer who was trying to help me so that less gas would flow into the burner. That took care of the high yellow flame, but the burner and pilot still went out after a few minutes.

    Any ideas? THANKS!

    • Tundra December 17, 2012 at 7:28 am #

      Hi Shelly,
      It sounds as though you may have a defective thermostat. It is not allowing any gas flow through to the safety which in turn goes to the pilot. When you turn the thermostat on slightly it allows a flow of gas to the pilot and when you turn it up further it will allow the burner to light but then it is shutting down prematurely.
      That is a good sign that you will have to replace the thermostat. You may have an FDO or BJWA type thermostat in that unit.
      You can identify it by going to etundra.com and enter either FDO or BJWA on the search bar and it will give you a picture of what the thermostat looks like.

  30. Mike December 16, 2012 at 5:47 pm #

    If my pilot light on my blodgett pizza oven remains lit but I cannot get the main burner to light when I open the gas valve how do I know if my problem with the safety valve or the thermostat. sometimes a bit if gas does get into the main burner and the first few holes do light. I was assuming that it the safety valve was bad I could not get a pilot but I’m not sure.

    • Tundra December 17, 2012 at 7:28 am #

      Hi Mike,
      If your pilot is staying lit your problem is not with the safety. Not knowing the model of your unit I am going to say that it has gas solenoid valves in it. The solenoid is controlled by the thermostat. When you turn on the thermostat it opens the solenoid allowing gas to flow to the burners. It sounds as though it may be sticking because you mentioned that you get a little gas to the burner at times. To check it take a small screw driver and touch it to the top of the solenoid and turn on the thermostat. If the screw driver sticks to the solenoid then you have magnetism, which tells me the plunger in it is probably sticking not allowing gas flow. If there is little or no magnetism then it is time to replace the solenoid.
      If you do have magnetism and not getting gas flow you can either replace the solenoid or get a rebuild kit for it.

  31. Edil January 27, 2013 at 10:41 am #

    Hi, i have a new Barco po-24 gas pizza oven and it burns the pizza always on the right side and constanly goes off when i open the door can somebody help me…

    • Tundra January 28, 2013 at 9:27 am #

      Hi Edil,

      Is your unit gas or electric? Did the unit come from Admiral Craft or Cecilware? I can not seem to find a model PO-24. I have come across PO-18 and PO-22 models.

      I will say this though, usually when the pizza burns on one side it is an indication that the thermostat bulb is not snapped into the clips where it belongs. Check that out and see if that is the case.

      With the other information I may be able to help you with the problem of it turning off when you open the door.

      Let me know.

    • Tundra January 28, 2013 at 12:59 pm #

      Hey Edil,

      I have done quite a bit of research and can not find a pizza oven with the brand name Barco. There is a company called Barco International LLC that sells restaurant equipment. They are out of Connecticut. Did you happen to purchase the oven from them?

      I would like to help remedy your problems if I can. Could you look and see if there is another tag on the unit with more information.

      Thank You.

    • Tundra January 29, 2013 at 11:24 am #

      Edil: Hi, the oven was purchased here in Puerto Rico it does not have any more info (po-24 Barco).

      Hi Edil,

      Ok Lets see if we can fix your problem. As I said before the uneven cooking may be due to the thermostat bulb not hanging in the clips for it. The clips may be on the upper side of the oven or in the upper back, so check that out.

      Now as far as the unit shutting off when you open the door. I am assuming that the pilot is going out also. If that is the case it could be caused by low gas pressure. It could be caused by a defective pressure regulator. Because it is a new unit you may need to have a service company come in and adjust the water column setting.

      The manuals that you got with your unit should indicate where the water column should be set, if it does not your service guy should know where to set it.

      You see when you light the pilot you may get enough flame to heat up the thermocouple enough to open the safety but when you turn on the thermostat that flame may drop due to low pressure when the burners ignite. When you open the door there may be enough breeze into the chamber to extinguish the pilot flame thus shutting down your unit.

      I hope this helps.

      Bake a pie for me.

  32. patrick February 19, 2013 at 8:15 pm #

    Have an american range majestic commercial convection oven. operates fine but every few hours temp goes wild, up to max until i shut it off, then does fine for a few hrs and again goes “wild”. Already replaced thermostat didnt help. Any thoughts?

    • Tundra February 20, 2013 at 7:40 am #

      Hey Patrick,
      When you replaced the thermostat did you snap the bulb on the end of the capillary tube back into the clips? This pertains to both a manuel control thermostat as well as a digital control thermostat. If it is digital it has a probe that plugs on to the board.
      In either case if the bulb is just hanging loose in the oven compartment it will cause the problem you are having.
      If this is not the problem shoot me over the model number of the unit and I will see what I can do to help.

      • patrick February 20, 2013 at 6:50 pm #

        Probe was clipped correctly on old thermostat, and clipped right with new one. Dont think old one was bad,new one didnt fix problem I think model is majestic single deck manual controls M1?

        • Tundra February 21, 2013 at 10:57 am #

          Hey Patrick,
          This is kind of a stumper, I have never run across this problem before. I first was thinking that you may have gotten a defective thermostat. So I talked to tech support at American.
          They say that your gas pressure may be to high causing the burners to get to hot. The pressure at the manifold needs to be at 5″s of water colunm. Your local gas company can check that for you usually at no cost to you.
          They say that is about the only thing that could be causing this problem at this point.

  33. Scott April 29, 2013 at 9:16 am #

    I’ve got a Blodgett 961P. The thermostat is reading 100F higher than usual (all of a sudden). We’ve turned it down and it seems to maintain a steady temp, but I’m wondering if I should be shopping for a new stat?

    Is it possible for a stat to “all of a sudden” need to be recalibrated?

    Any help is much appreciated.

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply April 30, 2013 at 3:14 pm #

      There is a way to recalibrate the thermostat. The adjustment requires a small flat head screw driver, referred to as a jewelers screwdriver. Pull the knob off, in the center of the stem is where you’ll see where you can make the adjustment. Do so in small increments & measure the temperature on the range as it’s done.

  34. Rebecca July 21, 2013 at 9:33 am #

    WE have Bakers Pride Double Stack 4 pie ovens. We want to put a timer on it so they go on when needed and off when needed automatically. Please let me know where I can find this part as it will alleviate my having to go in 2 hrs prior to opening.
    Thanks

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply July 22, 2013 at 9:25 am #

      Rebecca,

      We have plenty of timers that may help, https://www.etundra.com/kitchen-supplies/kitchen-timers/, but Baker’s Pride may have a retrofit timer for your unit. Could you share your model and serial numbers with us? We’ll try to get a more solid answer for you with that extra bit of info.

      Thanks!

  35. Guray October 6, 2013 at 8:28 pm #

    I have a gas pizza oven(marsal and sons- mb60). There is no problem when I set the temperature at 400 or below however when I increase the temperature over 400 than it shuts itself off. What might be the problem?
    Thanks

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply October 7, 2013 at 3:24 pm #

      Our first guess would be that it was the thermostat. Try replacing that and see if it helps. If not, let us know, and we can do further investigation. You could also call Marsal and Sons, 631-226-6688, and get their feedback on the issue as well.

      Good luck!

  36. Joe October 16, 2013 at 3:27 pm #

    I was working on a bakers pride pizza oven model Y800 and the pilot light keeps going off during the day. Door needs to be slightly opened in order for flame to stay lit. I checked millivolt in gas valve and it drops when door is closed and when i open it millivolt climbs. Gas valve and thermocouple are new??Help!!!!!

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply October 18, 2013 at 1:57 pm #

      Joe, pizza ovens operate at much higher temps. We’re wondering what part types you ordered. Maybe they weren’t they were the wrong parts needed here?

  37. Steve October 25, 2013 at 4:49 pm #

    Refurbishing an older Blodgett 911. When I turn on the main gas supply (not the oven valve) I can light the pilot without holding the safety valve. I’m assuming that needs to be retrofitted. Also, the burner will go full bore to 550° but never throttle down. I have to turn the oven down to 300° or so then the burner will shut off. Pilot always stays lit.
    Are there any individual parts…not the kit… available to replace the safety and thermostat?

    Thank you.

  38. steve November 3, 2013 at 1:29 pm #

    I light the pilot light it stays lit as long as the firebox door is open when I light the burners close the door it will burn for 3 to 4 minutes then the burners and pilot light goes out WHY?????

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply November 6, 2013 at 10:41 am #

      Steve, sounds like it may be the thermopile or thermostat.

    • Greg July 21, 2014 at 1:52 pm #

      I am having a very similiar problem. What have you learned?

  39. lola November 20, 2013 at 10:38 pm #

    Hello. I have a Blodgett DFG 102, have had repair man out, he adjusted the amount of propane coming into the oven, now it is making a popping noise. it is quite aalrming and we do not feel safe turning the oven on. The bottom oven is turning on but not heating up..

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply November 21, 2013 at 12:50 pm #

      Lola,

      A few questions…

      What was the original issue, that you needed to call a tech out for?
      Where is the popping noise coming from?
      Does it happen all the time, or just under demand?

      We’d recommend calling the tech back, because they should be guaranteeing their work, and should be able to come back out and review the issue for you. What it sounds like, just based on what you’ve told us, is that the tech adjusted the regulator too high.

      Hope this helps.

  40. Jan December 5, 2013 at 11:56 am #

    We have a Wolf 6 burner with griddle and two ovens. The pilot light on the smaller oven (under the griddle) will not stay lit. We have replaced the thermocoupler and the safety valve but there is still no gas flow. Everything else works perfectly. Any suggestions as to what we should try next?

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply December 11, 2013 at 8:36 am #

      Jan, make sure the thermocouple is in direct contact with the flame. Next likely cause would be the thermostat.

  41. danny March 4, 2014 at 7:54 pm #

    I HAVE A VULCAN PIZZA OVEN THE FLAME IS ORANGE AND IT SMOKES YOUR SUGGESTION IS APPRECIATED THANKS.

    • Tundra Restaurant Supply March 5, 2014 at 1:17 pm #

      Danny, it sounds like the gas pressure is too high. Try adjusting the pilot, and see if that helps.

  42. Jay March 7, 2014 at 12:15 pm #

    I just installed a brand new Blodgett 1060 a couple of weeks ago…Works great but recently I get a lingering but not over bearing smell of propane coming inside the top of the panel that has the thermostat and pilot light button in it….I removed panel and gave all the fittings a soapy water test but could not find a leak…The smell goes away when I shut off propane supply at back of ovens…Any ideas?

  43. victor April 22, 2014 at 9:48 am #

    hey tundra, i need your help with my backers pride pizza oven.
    brick oven’s flame is not working properly. i guess safety valve is a problem. if you can call me on 845-374-5700. thanks.

    • Kasy Allen April 25, 2014 at 11:20 am #

      Hey Victor, we’re calling you now!

  44. Bill May 10, 2014 at 7:49 pm #

    Hello Tundra,
    I’ve been having a problem for a couple of months now with a Baker’s Pride D-125 pizza oven. Could be two separate problems, or just one and the same.

    It’s a 1980’s model having an FMEA safety valve w/ the attached thermocouple, and a gas lever(handle) in front of the oven to turn on/off the gas to the burners every morning/night.
    ———————–
    Two problems: a) the burners, and b) the pilot.

    Problem #1: While the pilot does stay lit all night long, when I try to turn on the burners in the morning(cold oven), sometimes the burners will not ignite and other times when they do ignite they’ll go off after about a minute. (Makes no difference if the oven or burner doors are kept closed or open).
    At this point I use a small flame torch on the thermocouple for about 4-5 seconds to get it glowing red hot, causing the burners to turn on immediately. The burners now keep the thermocouple red the entire day, thus keeping my oven working all day long.
    At closing time I turn off the gas lever to the burners, and next morning I go thru the same process again.

    Note that on some mornings the burners will ignite normally(no flame torch), and stay on, without a problem. But on most mornings I go thru the process described above.
    ——————————
    Problem #2: On a few occasions, after closing time, at some point during the night the pilot flame goes off. The next morning when I re-light it, it stays lit with no problem.

    Btw, I already replaced the pilot assembly last month, but the problems mentioned above still continue.

    Any help in solving this matter would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    • Kasy Allen May 20, 2014 at 11:14 am #

      Bill, we’d suggest calling Baker’s Pride and talking with their tech team. You can find their support info here http://www.bakerspride.com/service.asp and call them at 800-431-2745.

      • Bill May 28, 2014 at 7:22 pm #

        Thanks for the reply, Kasy.

        I managed to find the cause and already fixed the problem.
        The pilot flame was too weak to keep the thermocouple hot overnight. During the day, the burners kept the pilot going all day long.

        The problem was a clogged pilot orifice due to metal dust.
        After cleaning it and slightly increasing the orifice hole, the pilot flame now is strong enough to keep the thermocouple glowing red.
        Oven works properly once again!

        Thanks

      • lloyd July 23, 2014 at 10:26 pm #

        Change the thermocouple it is faulty thus not allowing pilot light to stay on

  45. George Hernandez May 15, 2014 at 5:43 pm #

    I just replaced my safety valve and thermocouple on my Bari pizza oven now my pilot flame is too, is there a way to adjust it? Thanks

    • Kasy Allen May 20, 2014 at 11:13 am #

      George, we’d recommend checking the pilot orifice. Changing the thermocouple should have no effect on the flame size; although, while handling the pilot assembly to remove and install the thermocouple you could have inadvertently loosened settlement in the pilot line and clogged the orifice.

  46. Mike July 9, 2014 at 8:29 pm #

    Could someone please explain this mystery to me…

    I have a D125 Bakers Pride oven, the older version with the thermocouple line attached to the safety valve.

    With a normal-sized pilot flame the thermocouple maintains a nice pinkish glow.

    I decided to increase the pilot orifice hole with a needle, creating a pilot flame that’s over twice as big and much stronger than the normal flame, thinking that the thermocouple should now be able to maintain a deep-red glow.

    Well guess what: now it doesn’t even turn a slight pink, never mind a deep-red glow.

    How is it possible that with a normal pilot flame the thermocouple maintains a nice pinkish glow, BUT with a more powerful pilot flame it does not glow at all (and thus not allowing the burners to turn on)??

    Thanks for any responses.

  47. Greg July 21, 2014 at 1:50 pm #

    I recently purchased a pizza store and was doing some cleaning and improvements. I took out the very dirty vent screens attached to the Bakers Pride 452 and cleaned them thoroughly. I also installed a small exhaust fan in the wall that we only use for cross ventilation during business hours and when the back door is open. I noticed that my ovens were burning out at night time. We leave our ovens burning at 500 24 hours a day. either the top oven or the bottom or sometimes both would be cold in the morning. It was obvious they went out during the day. A pilot safety was replaced on the top oven and the pilot orifice was cleaned on both. All work done by a reputable commercial repair company. five days later and the top one goes out again. The previous owner told me she did not have a burn out in all the five years she owned it and the employees verified this. Even my third oven went out on at least one occassion. I believe it is an air issue as the likely hood of two going bad at the same time is just too big of a coincidence. Even after the safety/pilot assembly was replaced, lit and the burners burning and the door shut, two minutes later the whole thing was off. We had to keep the burner door open for the first 30 minutes after lighting the oven to keep it going constantly. Could it be my flue? the exhaust vent I installed is louvered and even when closed allows a small amount of air in and is located within ten feet of the oven.

  48. Tirta August 20, 2014 at 1:22 pm #

    Hi,

    My Vulcan commercial range oven got turned off when I use the oven for baking. Do you know why and how to fix it?

    • Kasy Allen August 20, 2014 at 3:34 pm #

      Tirta, if the pilot is still lit, replace the thermostat. If the pilot goes out when it shuts off, replace thermocouple and/or safety valve.

  49. brian September 8, 2014 at 4:46 pm #

    too much heat Lincoln Impinger pizza oven model 1116-000A

    Oven cycles to temp and kicks on and off then after awhile the main burnner stays off but just the pilot is on and the temp keeps rizing over the preset temp 480

    and only the pilot is lite burnner stays off due to over temping

    Is there a way to adjust the pilot?

    • Kasy Allen September 22, 2014 at 10:19 am #

      Brian, our team recommends reaching out to Lincoln and getting their recommendation on the repair. You can either call them at 800-374-3004 or use this link to find a service provider in your area: http://www.lincolnfp.com/minisite/service.

  50. Sandra September 17, 2014 at 12:56 am #

    Hi Guys,

    My partner and I have just taken over a pizza store and to our surprise just recently our ovens stopped working, I had the service guy come out and he was being a complete nut job about the situation saying we young kids shouldn’t have a business if we cant look after our ovens even though he serviced it only 6 months ago. He replaced the fan as it wasn’t working and today come into our shop and notice our pizzas are burning. We have tried playing around with temps however, our bottom oven is perfect set on 275, we feel uncomfortable calling him again as he was so rude to us and we cant seem to find anyone else who does this kind of work. From reading all the above im guessing it could be the thermo but not 100% sure. We have a Lincoln 1002 120/240 VL… Please help guice us!

    • Kasy Allen September 22, 2014 at 10:21 am #

      Sandra, like Brian above, we’d also recommend you reaching out to Lincoln to have them help find the root of the issue. You can call them at 800-374-3004 or use the service link to find a service provider (hopefully, different from the one you already used) in your area: http://www.lincolnfp.com/minisite/service.

  51. Reggie Gould September 25, 2014 at 10:27 am #

    I have a GE propane oven & range. I replaced the igniter that has a built in thermocouple, it lights okay but the flame on the oven burner is too low. The safty valve is in series with the igniter so i replaced it but the flame was way too much. I bought the part from the GE factory and i believe it was a natural gas velve. They ended up refunding my money & my oven still doesn work. I did monitor the in circuit current and it was withing their tolerance. I’m lost it seems like a simple system.

    • Kasy Allen September 29, 2014 at 11:03 am #

      Reggie, we’d recommend giving the GE Repair team a call at 1-800-GECares (1-800-432-2737). They should be able to walk through the DIY with you.

  52. Mark November 11, 2014 at 9:54 pm #

    I have an older Wolf 6 burner Commercial oven I think the model number is 6PS or 3PS – kind of hard to make out on the ID plate. I have also been told that this might be a bakers oven.
    It was converted to propane from natural gas a few years ago. Recently I have noticed that
    the oven won’t get up to temp, it takes like, 3 hours to cook a small chicken! The pilot light
    is fine and stays lit but when I adjust the oven from 250 – 500 degrees the flame does not get any bigger. The top burners all work fine. If I don’t fix this by Thanksgiving I will be foraging in the Wilderness. Help.

    • Kasy Allen November 12, 2014 at 12:40 pm #

      Mark, it sounds like the oven thermostat could be bad or possibly the oven safety won’t open. Call our team with model and full serial number at 888-388-6372 and we can help you find the parts.

  53. Stuart Trusty November 16, 2014 at 10:39 am #

    Greetings! I have an older Blodgett DFG-100 and it is trying hard to work like a champ! However, the red warm up light that’s couple with the circuit that makes the gas flow into the main burner is intermittent- sometimes it comes on and heats up the oven, but the rest of the time, just a bit of gas flows next to the thermocouple and stays on for a while while it zaps and gets that one little front prong hot, but then the gas just dies. I would very much appreciate you all’s expert analysis of what needs to be replaced! Thanks much! Stuart Trusty

    • Kasy Allen November 19, 2014 at 1:50 pm #

      Stuart, it sounds like the thermocouple could be bad. Try switching that out first before swapping out other parts.

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